It sounds like a temperature sensor problem. On my RF265AABP model there is a control board located under a cover on the back of the refrigerator. There is a wiring diagram on that cover. Remove the cover if you have one, and locate the control board and power supply boards. If you have a voltmeter, check for +5V and +12V (on my model anyway) from the power supply board. If that is OK, then check the voltages on the temperature sensor wires. Mine are at the bottom of the board as shown in the photo. I have 5 temperature sensors, refrigerator (R), freezer (F), refrigerator defrost (R-DEF), freezer defrost (F-DEF), and Pantry (a temperature controlled drawer in the refrigerator). You may need to refer to your specific diagram to get the colors of wires, but it appears that the voltages should be somewhere between about 2 to 4 volts from each sensor to ground. I had a broken ice maker wire that resulted in a high reading, about 4.3 volts on the freezer sensor, so I assume high reading indicate an open sensor, and low reading indicate a shorted sensor. I am not sure where the refrigerator sensor is located. Repairing the broken wire restored the display to normal readings.
On my model the left gray wire is common, and the diagram should indicate color and a letter or so (R, F, R-DEF, F-DEF, Pantry) on my model.
SOURCE: Samsung RCS21DCNS Side by Side
probly the evaporator coil in fridge all frozen up you need to pull all the back out inside the fridge section and defrost with air drier
First I would like to say thanks for all the information on the Fisher-Paykel active smart fridge freezer problems. This was a lot more useful than their customer support help line… After a week of hanging on for ten minutes without any answer I had a look on the net and found your site with descriptions of similar problems so I decided to investigate further
I have a Fisher Paykel fridge freezer (model 402B in the UK) about three years old. Although it didn’t seem to be as cold as normal, the first sign of a serious problem was when it started making a rattling or knocking noise from the freezer compartment. Looking inside it was obviously iced up solid and the noise was probably the fan catching the ice. So first thing I decided to try was a days de icing after which everything seemed ok except the green indicator light was now flashing about once every second.
Two weeks later it was badly iced up again so the problem was still there. At first I suspected the fans (which I could never see actually working). I disconnected one and tried it with a 6v torch battery and it spun ok. It was then I realised what was happening - the fans cut out whenever the door is opened so they are always stopped if you look inside.
A closer look at the aluminium heat exchanger(behind the plastic panel at the back of the freezer section) showed there was some kind of heater element clipped along the bottom with feed wires at either side. Obviousely part of the automatic de icing systems. It’s a bit tricky but there an electrical connector plug at the top and disconnecting this enables you to unclip the element and remove it (except that in this case one wire had been trapped at the wrong side of the coolant pipes when they had been fitted so it had to be snipped to get it out). Once out a circuit test showed there was no circuit through the element. So cutting into the two shrouded connections at each end of the element revealed some little components inside which I now know are “Thermal fuses”. One of these had “Blown”. There was a number on the side: - DF 72S which Google revealed is a thermal fuse set at 72 degrees. Although these are listed as spares in all sorts of places non was convenient to the UK. So I found a similar component at Maplins Electronics (R14) set at 92 degrees for just 69p! The reasoning being that the other thermal DF 72S fuse was still ok and the slightly higher use temp at the other end would still blow before anything melted!
By the way you cannot solder these things in so its best to use miniature screwed “block” connectors plus a good covering with insulation tape.
After putting it all back together its now been working for a month and no ice build up… The green light did still flash for a while but went out once the temperature dropped too normal freezing level.
Total cost of replacement parts was under £1 but it took a bit of time find the problem.
SOURCE: Freezer light flashing
if you have ice built up on rear wall of freezer section then your unit is not going through defrost cycle which builds up frost on evaporator and restricts cold air flow over to the fresh food side.
SOURCE: fridge & freezer not cooling. Meat thawing
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer
some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's
stopped completely.”
Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting?
If not, reset it.
Next, see if the compressor motor is running
The compressor is a football-sized case with no
apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the
back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and
your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious
problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend
contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have
power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of
these:
The compressor
The Thermostat
The overload, relay, or capacitor
The defrost timer
The condenser fan motor
SOURCE: Freezer temp on GE profile
This is by design. It should be warm. This is where the heat exchanger is located to save space.
No worries.... right now it is being over-worked until it reaches operating temp.
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