Maytag model # RSW22A AM31A side by side freezer not defrosting, coils freezing up. fridge side not staying cool. no continuity on bi metal thermostat, continuity on heater coos although glass is broken on one of the heaters. (is this still good to use?) do not know where to check to see if timer is also working properly

If you have noticed a rise in temperature in the fridge, and there seems to be fromst building up in the freezer than your problem is one or more parts of the defrost system is malfunctioned and in return your problem arises. There are three parts to the system, the defrost timer or in some cases control board, defrost thermostat also known as a bi-metal, and the defrost heater. The defrost system is set up to operate as so. The defrost timer or control board will turn the machine off, in some cases every 8 hours, some 12. During this time period the defrost heaters, located behind the freezer wall and rest underneath the evaporator, yet wires to them run up the side of it, are energized and emit heat that raises upward to melt the ice that has formed on the evaporator coils. The bi-metal or defrost thermostat is at the top of the evaporator. When the heat from the heater starts to reach the bi-metal, it breaks the circuit turning the heater off. The whole purpose of this is because the freezer cool the refridgerator side by drawing air across the coils and blowing to the other side via the evap fan motor. In my opinion, if you change one part of the defrost system change them all because usually when one part fails another will follow, so save yourself the time and the food loss, the cost difference is minute.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

The first thing you want to do is open the freezer and see if the fan inside there is running. The reason is the freezer cools the refrigerator side by circulating air from the freezer. If the fan is running then your problem is one or more parts of the defrost system is malfunctioned and in return your problem arises. There are three parts to the system, the defrost timer or in some cases control board, defrost thermostat also known as a bi-metal, and the defrost heater. The defrost system is set up to operate as so. The defrost timer or control board will turn the machine off, in some cases every 8 hours, some 12. During this time period the defrost heaters, located behind the freezer wall and rest underneath the evaporator, yet wires to them run up the side of it, are energized and emit heat that raises upward to melt the ice that has formed on the evaporator coils. The bi-metal or defrost thermostat is at the top of the evaporator. When the heat from the heater starts to reach the bi-metal, it breaks the circuit turning the heater off. The whole purpose of this is because the freezer cool the refridgerator side by drawing air across the coils and blowing to the other side via the evap fan motor. In my opinion, if you change one part of the defrost system change them all because usually when one part fails another will follow, so save yourself the time and the food loss, the cost difference is minute.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

The first thing you want to do is open the freezer and see if the fan inside there is running. The reason is the freezer cools the refrigerator side by circulating air from the freezer. If the fan is running then your problem is one or more parts of the defrost system is malfunctioned and in return your problem arises. There are three parts to the system, the defrost timer or in some cases control board, defrost thermostat also known as a bi-metal, and the defrost heater. The defrost system is set up to operate as so. The defrost timer or control board will turn the machine off, in some cases every 8 hours, some 12. During this time period the defrost heaters, located behind the freezer wall and rest underneath the evaporator, yet wires to them run up the side of it, are energized and emit heat that raises upward to melt the ice that has formed on the evaporator coils. The bi-metal or defrost thermostat is at the top of the evaporator. When the heat from the heater starts to reach the bi-metal, it breaks the circuit turning the heater off. The whole purpose of this is because the freezer cool the refridgerator side by drawing air across the coils and blowing to the other side via the evap fan motor. In my opinion, if you change one part of the defrost system change them all because usually when one part fails another will follow, so save yourself the time and the food loss, the cost difference is minute.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

The first thing you want to do is open the freezer and see if the fan inside there is running. The reason is the freezer cools the refrigerator side by circulating air from the freezer. If the fan is running then your problem is one or more parts of the defrost system is malfunctioned and in return your problem arises. There are three parts to the system, the defrost timer or in some cases control board, defrost thermostat also known as a bi-metal, and the defrost heater. The defrost system is set up to operate as so. The defrost timer or control board will turn the machine off, in some cases every 8 hours, some 12. During this time period the defrost heaters, located behind the freezer wall and rest underneath the evaporator, yet wires to them run up the side of it, are energized and emit heat that raises upward to melt the ice that has formed on the evaporator coils. The bi-metal or defrost thermostat is at the top of the evaporator. When the heat from the heater starts to reach the bi-metal, it breaks the circuit turning the heater off. The whole purpose of this is because the freezer cool the refridgerator side by drawing air across the coils and blowing to the other side via the evap fan motor. In my opinion, if you change one part of the defrost system change them all because usually when one part fails another will follow, so save yourself the time and the food loss, the cost difference is minute.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

You have an ice block if the fridge is not cooling and freezer somewhat is. There are a few options you have. First off the bi-metal defrost thermostat has to be replaced. This may be your only problem. The other two things you can check one it your heater. Once you remove the ice to can test the heater for continuity. The other is your defrost timer. Unfortunately you have a computer board that is your timer. You cant test this but you can see if it is working. If the box shuts everything down the fans in freezer and the compressor for 8-30 minutes than kicks everything back on chances are your board is fine. Now to fix your problem.
Option 1 only use if you have a backup fridge to put everything in. Transfer all your food to backup fridge. Unplug fridge for 48-72 hrs with doors cracked open and have towels surrounding the fridge for all the water. Remove back panel in freezer to check for ice block. **Remove back access panel and at the top of coils is your bi-metal. It has two wires going to it. Replace. Now to test the heater you will see the wires to the heater if you have a glass heats there is a pink and blue wire that run down your coils to the heater. Remove the heater and test for continuity. If you have a bar heater you will see two wires running up along the side of coils. You have a bar heater on this icebox. Chances are the heater will still be good. Now once everything is back together than give it a couple hours for temp to get back down before moving your food back.** If you have not heard the box shutdown. Dont put you food back yet give it three days and than check for ice buildup. If I block is forming again replace defrost board if not than it was just your bi-metal.

Option 2: If you dont have a backup fridge. Follow most of steps above once Ice is melted. Get a couple bath towels and a hair dryer. Now remove freezer access panel and with box unplugged start melting all the ice and letting a mojority of the water fall onto the towels. Now once all the ice is melted Take flashlight and look between all the coils. Ice can be hideing and your will have problems again. Now do everything between aristcrats above. Now if you have not hear the box shutdwon your board maybe out. Hopefully its just your bi-metal.

If you have a more question or need further assistance please reply.

replaced bi-metal sensor

Hi, You have a self defrosting problem.
Remove the rear inside freezer panel and check continuity on the defrost element and bi-metal switch.The bi-metal has to be tested cold. If there is continuity on both parts, you will need to change the defrost timer.
The most common part that goes bad is the element. I hope this helps you. Please leet me know if I can assist you further.

Vic

when you manually defrost do you see or hear water fall on to the pan thts on the motor underneath the fridge,this is the first step its to make sure the drain isnt clogged in you freezeer it should be beneath the coils,after you defrost it look for the hole pour some hot water inside to make sure it drains thru,if okand not clogged look at the coils which are freezing up youll see a silver colored metal peice connected on the coil about the size of a quarter about an inch thick,ther should be 2 wires coming from it usally pink and brown this is called a bi- metal,it cost about 10 dollars just unclip off the coil and replace,you usally have to splice the new one in,if you still have the problem its the defrost timer which is about 60 dollars ,but most of the time its the clogged drain tube or bi-metal

MWKT, did the service tech replace the adaptive defrost board? By your post it sounds like a defrost problem. Check out the pic, this is the adaptive defrost board. I find that the heater and bi-metal usually don't fail on these models and the board is the culprit. Catriver..post back

Sounds like your defrost system isn't working. There is a timer that turns off the compressor and fans then turns on the heater under the coils to defrost them. The defrost bi-metal thermostat could be "open" and not letting power to the heat element, the heat element itself could be bad or the defrost timer could be bad, that's about it for the defrost cycle system. I see this quite a bit and it's "usually" the adaptive defrost timer. Under the fridge kickpanel in the front is some paperwork and troubleshooting sheets. I think this model you push the light switch in 5 times in 10 seconds to force a defrost cycle for testing. With the unit running (compressor, evap fan, condensor fan all running) in a normal cooling cycle open the fresh food door and press the light switch in 5 times within 10 seconds. If all the compressor and fans turn off right away then the adaptive defrost board is OK and it's the heat element or bi-metal. I'll bet it's the adaptive defrost board though... here's a diagram of where it is and where to get one. It's REAL easy to get to and change out (then test as above). http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/A50-6.gif