When i turn the computer on the wheel doesnt calibrate. the power light flashes and then after a while it starts to flash faster. i can turn the wheel the full 900 degrees but the wheel doesnt centre and also it doesnt register that im turning the wheel on the computer. Ive tried all the different usb ports on my computer and tried plugging the power plug in different places but i get the same problem. the pedals and shifter work along with all the buttons .. its just the wheel. really want to fix this problem as im using it all the time im on my computer and im desperate to use it again! please please help me !!
Hey! I had a similar problem! Only the weel tried to calibrate itself, but itjust "twitched"
So I tried replacing the power cord with a similar one from an older wheel. Didn't work for me.
I opened it up and voilá, same problem as "epicname"! I tightened the screws on the optical sensor and put it back together. Now it works like a treat! So i guess if it's the power cord it won't react, If it's the optical sensor it will twitch, notice it doesn't get a signal and give up from there.
I don't know if this will really help anyone, as they would just send it back to the shop and get it fixed for free. But couldn't find the reciept, and often find it's better to fix things myself than to let the local shop send it to their usual place.
THIS IS JUST A LAST RESORT!! ALWAYS TRY TO GET THE WHEEL REPLACED OR FIXED PROFESSIONALLY!!!
Remove all the screws underneath, even the larger black ones. Remove the steering wheel by unscrewing the bolts on the front panel and the three larger screws under the little circuit board in the wheelhub.
Remove the bonnet. theres a black box on the left engine wich contain the sensor. If it's loose you're able to rattle it. If you're not, the sensor is most likely not the problem.
Unscrew the mainboard and remove the bracket it sits on.
Now the Force Feedback rig should be loose.
Flip it over and pop off the little black cap on the sensor(it's just pushed on)
Put some locktite on and fasten the two screws that hold the sensor mount (unscrew and remove the sensor board so you can get to the last screw)
Put everything back together.
Posted on Nov 28, 2008
Hi Guys, I have found your solution. If all the buttons work, but the steering does not, it's because the buttons are powered by the USB bus. The electric engine of the wheel need really juice from the power supply. I have just bought a G25 and all the buttons worked fine, but turning the wheel was completely undetected. The power supply was cold as a supermodel heart. I have just put a new power supply and now all the things work perfectly. By the way, my thanks to all the other guys that posted the G25 issues, it really helped me out.
Enjoy your driving !
Petro
*[email protected]*
Posted on Oct 17, 2008
How much volts is the power supply needed for the wheel?
How did you put in a new power suply?
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Dude i dunno.
Posted on Jun 20, 2010
Thanks for the post. This helped me quite a bit. However, I found that the actual problem was that the slotted disc that spins between the emitter and sensor was sliding on the spindle of the motor to which it was attached. This would cause it to touch the sensor board keeping it from turning and causing the "twitching" that you described. I removed the disc and placed a small amount of glue from a paper glue stick inside the disc to gum it up a bit. This has effectively kept it from sliding on the spindle. Thanks again!
I had the same problem with the slotted disc being loose on the shaft. I pushed on it to see how loose it was and I felt something seem to give. Pushed a bit harder and the whole thing cracked into 3 pieces and fell off the shaft. Oops . . . . . . Anyway I suspect it might have been cracked already and hence why it was slipping.
Fortunately the pieces were broken cleanly and fit back together quite well. I put them on a flat benchtop and moved them into position. Then I put a small ring of heat shrink tube around the collar part. I slowly heated it and kept adjusting the pieces until the heat shrink tube was tight and the pieces were clamped together correctly. Then I put another piece of tube around the first one and heated it on just for extra strength.
Slid it back on the motor shaft and was pleasantly surprised to find that it no longer slides around on it's own, much tighter than before. Fairly certain now it was already cracked and loose before which caused the problem. Put the wheel back together, connected everything up and working perfectly so far. Fixed for 5 cents :D Hope it lasts . . . .
I had the same problem with the slotted disc being loose on the shaft. I pushed on it to see how loose it was and I felt something seem to give. Pushed a bit harder and the whole thing cracked into 3 pieces and fell off the shaft. Oops . . . . . . Anyway I suspect it might have been cracked already and hence why it was slipping.
Fortunately the pieces were broken cleanly and fit back together quite well. I put them on a flat benchtop and moved them into position. Then I put a small ring of heat shrink tube around the collar part. I slowly heated it and kept adjusting the pieces until the heat shrink tube was tight and the pieces were clamped together correctly. Then I put another piece of tube around the first one and heated it on just for extra strength.
Slid it back on the motor shaft and was pleasantly surprised to find that it no longer slides around on it's own, much tighter than before. Fairly certain now it was already cracked and loose before which caused the problem. Put the wheel back together, connected everything up and working perfectly so far. Fixed for 5 cents :D Hope it lasts . . . .
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My G25 arrived with exactly the same issues. Pedals and buttons work but no input from the wheel and no return to centre. I have contacted the Komplett and it is being replaced as a suspected hardware fault. Where was your wheel purchased?
Posted on Sep 17, 2007
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I purchased my wheel from dabs.com :( i will be disappointed if i have to send it back because its been working fine up to now. And if i have to send it back then ill have to wait a while to get it back and i cant bare to wait much longer :'(
i have now been told by logitech i have to send the wheel back to the dealer for a replacement :(
sunday, jan 6
I have the same problem.... no steering wheel... and I live in Peru and bought the wheel through amazon.com
i have the same problem. no calibration and the power light flashes. i contacted logitech and they are sending me a new wheel. i want to get my old wheel fixed though. i opened up the wheel and had a look inside. seems the optical sensor attached to one of the motors had vibrated loose. i tightened it up and the wheel still doesnt work. but i think its something to do with that. could just be a damaged sensor. anyone else looked inside to inspect it?
same issues as listed above. Wheel has worked great up until this issue. I think it has something to do with the power cord BOX.
Its connects under usb , everything on the pedals are working fine & show in calibration software. The power runs only FF part of the wheel. and that is what it is missing. The Power cord just so happens to be the only part available fom Logitech for the G-25. I have sent for a new one. I can only hope. $300+ for one years service, dont think so. My $99.00 7 year old Thrustmaster may be dusty But it still works flaw free. go figure.
so where can i buy a AC adapter for the g25?
where can i buy a AC adapter for the g25?
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