There was a similar submission with regard to the amp not putting out any sound. The blue Led's come on but the green power led does not come on. There is no sound and protect mode is not lit either. All I get is the blue LED's. I have had this amp for about 18 months and never pushed it too hard. It has always worked fine. I removed all the wiring and checked the fuses. No indication of damage, wear or burn in the unit or the wires. Totally confused here. Can you help?
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Re: Amp Stopped working.
I would suggest checking the unit for cold solder joints or bad solder joints. The onlt hope after that is a bad component. You will need a schematic and multimeter to do this with. Open the unit and measuer the main rail voltage this will provide the data you need to troubleshoot the unit with the use of the schematic.
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the n300 colors..... 4
Router Link LED
This LED indicates the connection between the extender and the router or access point.
. Best connection.
r. Good connection.
. Poor connection.
. No connection.
Device Link LED
This LED indicates the connection between the extender and a computer or mobile device.
. Best connection.
. Good connection.
. Poor connection.
. No connection.
. The extender is booting.
. The extender is powered on.
. The extender is powered off.
. WiFi security is enabled (WPA or WPA2).
. A WPS connection is being established.
. WiFi security is not enabled.
If the Router Link LED or Device Link LED is amber or red, Find the Best Location
LCD panel fault. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
faults & possible causes to LCD & Plasma screen are given with illustrations. You can get an idea about the fault to an extent. Faults to all LCD & Plasma screen are similar, irrespective of its brand and screen size.
There should be 2 rows of pins in parallel usually around the bottom edge of the motherboard. The markings for which is which should be next to them on the board. HDled+, HdLed-, PwrSw, PwrLed, or something similar.
If you do find them but the hard drive Led does'nt come on it's because the plug for it needs to be turned around the opposite way, Led's only work one way as they are diodes. Same for the Power Led.
If there are no letters near the pins then you would have to find the motherboard manual.
use a multimeter to see if the amp has good power wire and remote turn on voltage. then check the ground and make sure its a good strong ground. check the sub to make sure its not bad. make sure it reads whatever ohm its supposed to. anything less than 4 ohms will clip the amp if bridged. if alll that is good then the only thing left is the amp. it sounds like the power supply is bad but check everything else just to make sure. good luck.
As per the manual the FN and F11 keys turn on both Bluetooth and Wireless so you need to try it will turn bluetooth and then it will turn on wireless, you can check them by LEDS
Press and hold the Fn button, and then press the F11 button
repeatedly to enable or disable the Wireless LAN or Bluetooth function
Wireless LAN and Bluetooth:
Wireless LAN LED indicator glows green when Wireless LAN function is
Bluetooth LED indicator glows blue when Bluetooth function is enabled.
Both LED indicators glow green and blue at the same time when both
functions are enabled.
Both LED indicators go out when both functions are disabled. Note: For flight safety consideration, make sure these two LED indicators
go out when you are in flight.
Let me know if you are able to turn the wireless on
Also i will suggest you check in device manager that you wireless adapter is enabled
From memory, this amp does not have HDMI.
If this is the case, use an optical fibre cable for your connections.(Audio)
And if you want every thing to run through your amp you will also need to use component video cables (red/green/blue)
I would suggest the following.
Blue Ray to TV with HDMI.
HD Reciever to TV with HDMI.
TV AUDIO OUT to AMP with Optical Fibre.
This way, whatever is displayed on the tv, the sound will come throught the amp.
Hope this helps.
It sounds like part of the power switching circuit has failed. Your options would be to have it repaired/replaced or to try to repair it yourself. If you want to try to repair it yourself, visit the following link and then respond here. You will need to have the amp powered up and you'd need a multimeter to measure the voltage at several points on the board. A good quality photo of the circuit board would be helpful.
Check the amplifiers fuses. Some amps have speaker fuses that leave the LED on if blown. Check for continuity on the voice coils of both subs. Check for 12 volts on the remote turn on line from your receiver. If all of the above are good, the amp is probably toast.