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Re: Drain pump replacement instruction
Ok so you have the cabinet removed if you can see the pump. That is the hardest part of changing this pump..
1 with a flat screwdriver remove upper and lower retainer clips.turn them 90 degrees and clips will slide out. remove pump from motor
2 get a bucket to catch the water. with pliers remove both hose clamps then pull off hoses.you have just removed the pump. when reinstalling I like to use screw hose clamps much better then spring hose clamps. just so you will not have any leaks... Hope this helps let me know..krazytech
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It is so common that the drain cloggs and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged or the drain hose clamps can be loose on the grip which can all cause the leak to occurs. Removing and Cleaning the drain pump/valve, tightening of the hose is also very important. The dain pump /valve must be tested and if fault must be replaced.
This model is direct drive with a front mounted drain pump. The drain pump is THE most common leak location on these type washers! The pumps do NOT generally leak at the hoses, but from the impeller side between the pump and motor. There will be a telltale water mark on motor side of the pump shell.It can easily be fixed by popping the 2 retaining clips, removing the two drain hoses, and pulling off the old plastic pump, replacing it in the reverse order after cleaning the end of the motor shaft. Pumps run about 30 dollars. If you are sure this isn't the culprit, check for signs of leakage between the tub center and transmission, there is a tub gasket there. The tub itself, is not likey to leak, it is one piece with heat welded seams.Go to Youtube and search Whirlpool washing machine repairs, there are a number of instructional videos that show you exactly how to repair these machines and save yourself a lot of money. Incidentally Roper is built by Whirlpool, that's why I said search with that name.
This model is a direct drive with only one pump, the drain pump. If the drain pump leaks, which is a common problem on these models, it will leak no matter what temperature wash is selected! If you a have a leak on cold, it will probably also leak on warm wash. Your problem is your solenoid operated fill valve on the cold side. Only one fill hose comes off of this combination fill valve to your fill plenum at the top back of your tub. So if it leaks on the cold, but not hot, check for a crack in the plastic housing of the valve on the cold half. The valve is located on the inside back of the machine on top right when looking at the front of the machine. They are fairly inexpensive and easy to replace.
Its not uncommon for these drain pumps to leak fortunately the are very easy to replace. Place a small pan under pump remove both hoses and then pop off the retaining clips and pull the pump forward. line up the new pumps drive slot with the drive shaft coming off the motor reinstall retaining clips and hoses Good Luck
there could be a couple of things wrong with it. The first thing to do is use a wet dry shop vac and attach it to the end of the drain hose and remove the water.once the water is remove then you can lean the unit back and remove the hoses from the drain pump there will be some water that does come out so have a towel handy.then loo in the hoses and the pump fro anything that may be obstructing the pump or the impellar wheel.
If you don't find anything wrong there then your lid switch may be faulty.
If it is not the drain pump, at least this gives you the necessary instruction on how to access the cabinet interior to inspect it properly. A whining noise could be something caught in the pump, or something stuck between the wash tub and outer basket. In order to run the washer with the case removed, you will need to by-pass the lid switch. this accomplished by jumpering the two BLACK wires on the lid switch connector at the timer. CAUTION: Unplug the washer before connecting the jumper wires. Then, plug back in and start the washer. Fill on the lowest setting and look for leaks.
NOTE: The drain pump is not serviceable and must be replaced if leaking.
I hope this helps you. Let me know if you have further questions.