Question about Electrolux Freezers
Hi Clair, thank you for allowing me to assist you.
When the refrigerator is beeping or buzzing, it may be a warning sign of a possible malfunction or an unsafe, interior temperature. To silence the buzzer, you can depress the ALARM OFF button. However, if you have already done this, try unplugging the unit or flipping the household circuit breaker for about ten minutes.
If the alarm continues, it could possibly be experiencing a communication problem with the temperature control/board or wiring failure. I would recommend connecting with a professional appliance tech for a clear-cut diagnosis.
Posted on Sep 12, 2013
SOURCE: alarm on
hector...this sounds like icing up! First thing is to defrost this unit. The ice is preventing air flow over the coils. Shut down and get warm air to the coils. Then, let everything dry. If you leave off and open for 2 days, this will do it. Causes: humid conditions, 'window shopping' or bad gaskets. If the gasket surfaces are dirty, clean them. Test any questionable areas by taking a 2-3 wide strip of paper and close the door on it. If the paper pulls easily, the gasket is bad.
Now, clean out the condenser coils. They are located in the back or under the unit and are always painted black. Then, have a look at the compressor. It is that big black thing in the bottom with pipes sticking out of it. Look at the larger pipe. When you start the unit, it should frost and then either dry off or condense water after about 5 minutes. If it stays frosty or is not cold, you need gas. If the unit passes all these tests, you may have a defrost timer issue. Let me know.
Posted on Dec 04, 2007
you have a refrigeration issue partner let her go 16 yrs. is good service you can replace it for 3 to 5 hundred the repair will be that IF you can find someone with the r-12. don't go for a top it off and go deal the food you lose is to expensive for that to be economical.
Posted on Apr 23, 2008
Hi, you have a common problem with your control boards; there is a cheap fix if you can use a soldering iron or you can have your modules repaired.
Let me know
Posted on Sep 26, 2009
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...
Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
Posted on May 02, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
The normal setting for a freezer is -2 to +2 degrees F., and the normal setting for the fresh food section is +35 to +40 degrees F.
You only have one source of cooling and that is your freezer. With the settings that you have, you are asking your unit to do what it is not designed to do.
The ice maker is struggling because if it is a cast steel ice cube mold, the heater beneath it is not designed for the current to break the ice cubes free @ -18 degrees F., or if you have a plastic flex ice cube mold it is too ridged to flex enough to break the ice cubes free. Normally your ice maker should dump 8-10 times in a 24 hour period.
A note on food storage. Make sure you do not overload your freezer of fresh food section to the point where food product extends beyond the edge of the shelves.
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