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Lightning spike-dead sets

(1)2003 32" JVC TV & (1)2004 32" JVC TV, line fuses not blown, bridge rects and H.O.T. are ok. Possible power supply relay open? Or maybe control microprocessor problems? Or standby circuit problem?

Posted by StGeorge on

  • StGeorge Sep 17, 2007

    Sorry, guys. I'm still working on the problem. I didn't leave you for dead. I have a lot on my plate with my recently deceased father's estate. I had to leave many projects for now. I need to move after 17 years in my house. I will get back to you in a few months.

    Thanks.
    Rob

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Anonymous

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If it is relay problem you can make it direct just to check.check power supply output. as you say that eht ok than it due to stand by section of system control mcrpssr.

Posted on Sep 13, 2007

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2 Answers

NO POWER AT ALL


Hi
our tv set need to be serviced. Here are some tips:
1. Open main fuse. The fuse is clean but interrupted. You can try replacing it with one o the same value.
2. Fuse Blown or blackened. Short in the rectifier bridge or in the switching transistor. Out of the power supply: supply line rectifier (100/150V) shorted.

Sully

Sep 29, 2013 | Televison & Video

Tip

Troubleshooting Guide


  • Problem: Totally dead oven.
    Possible causes:
    1. No power to outlet (blown fuse or tripped breaker or GFCI).
    2. Blown main fuse - likely due to other problems.
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Clock needs to be set before other functions will operate (some models).

  • Problem: Totally dead oven after repair.
    Possible causes:
    1. Cabinet screws replaced in incorrect location (safety interlock not engaged).
    2. Any number of screwups. :)

  • Problem: No response to any buttons on touchpad.
    Possible causes:
    1. Door is not closed (some models).
    2. You waited to long (open and close door to wake it up).
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Defective interlock switches.
    5. Faulty controller or its power supply.
    6. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    7. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven runs when door is still open.
    Possible causes:
    1. Damaged interlock assembly.
    2. Cooling fans (only) running due to bad sensor or still warm.

  • Problem: Oven starts on its own as soon as door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac or relay.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven works but display is blank.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective controller or its power supply.
    2. Broken display panel.
    3. Oven needs to be reset (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).

  • Problem: Whacked out controller or incorrect operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    6. Defective sensor (particulalry covection/mirowave combos).

  • Problem: Erratic behavior.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    3. Faulty relay - primary (or HV side, much less commonly used).
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Bad contacts/connections on mechanical timers. Intermittent fuse.
    6. Power surge at start of cook cycle confusing controller.
    7. Microwave (RF) leakage into electronics bay.

  • Problem: Some keys on the touchpad do not function or perform the wrong action.
    Possible causes:
    1. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    2. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Microwave oven does not respond to START button.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective START button.
    2. Faulty interlock switches.
    3. Door is not securely closed.
    4. Faulty controller.
    5. You waited too long - open and close door to wake it up!

  • Problem: No heat but otherwise normal operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
    2. Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron filament.
    5. Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
    6. Defective HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective (lower) door interlock switch or door not closing fully.
    2. Faulty relay or triac.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when closing or opening door:
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective door interlock switch(s).
    2. Interlock switch knocked out of position.
    3. Misaligned door.

  • Problem: Loud hum and/or burning smell when attempting to cook.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted HV diode, magnetron.
    2. Burnt carbonized food in or above oven chamber.
    3. Shorted winding in HV transformer.
    4. Frayed insulation on HV wiring.

  • Problem: Arcing in or above oven chamber.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt carbonized food deposits.
    2. Exposed sharp metal edges.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when initiating cook cycle.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective interlock switches or misaligned door.
    2. Shorted HV capacitor.
    3. Shorted HV diode.
    4. Shorted magnetron (probably won't blow main fuse but HV fuse if used).
    5. Defective triac.
    6. Old age or power surges.
    7. Defective HV transformer.
    8. Short in wiring due to vibration or poor manufacturing.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when microwave shuts off (during or at end of cook cycle).
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac (doesn't turn off properly).
    2. Defective relay.
    3. Shorting wires.

  • Problem: Oven heats on high setting regardless of power setting.
    Possible causes:
    1. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven immediately starts to cook when door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted relay or triac.
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven heats but power seems low or erratic.
    Possible causes:
    1. Low line voltage.
    2. Magnetron with low emission.
    3. Faulty controller or set for wrong mode.
    4. Stirrer (or turntable) not working.
    5. Intermittent connections to magnetron filament or elsewhere.
    6. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Oven heats but shuts off randomly.
    Possible causes:
    1. Overheating due to blocked air vents or inoperative cooling fan.
    2. Overheating due to bad magnetron.
    3. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    4. Faulty interlock switch or marginal door alignment.
    5. Faulty controller.
    6. Overheating due to extremely high line voltage.
    7. Stuck stirrer fan resulting hot spots detected by sensors.

  • Problem: Oven makes (possibly erratic) buzzing noise when heating.
    Possible causes:
    1. Fan blades hitting support or shroud.
    2. Vibrating sheet metal.
    3. Vibrating transformer laminations.
    4. Turntable or stirrer hitting some debris.

  • Problem: Oven light does not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt out bulb :-).
    2. Bad connections.

  • Problem: Fans or turntables that do not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Gummed up lubrication or bad motor bearing(s).
    2. Loose or broken belt.
    3. Bad motor.
    4. Bad thermostat.
    5. Bad connections.

on Mar 30, 2008 | Kenmore 80412 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Westinghouse tv stopped working


Hi

If no standby light is on (red), maybe a blown fuse that can be replaced with a new one of the same value. If the blown fuse is blackened, some componet is bad inside the power supply.
If the fuse replacement does no result, the problem may be in the power supply (IC power supply switching controller, switching transistor, startup resistor or even an overload in the supply line output) which requires a technician to fix it.

Sully

Sep 28, 2013 | RCA 27V530T 27" TV

1 Answer

My aiwa tv has no power


what you can do is trouble shooting of the tv unit. first place to be check will be the powers supply section check weather the primary fuse get blown. if ok check the regulator and the bridge type diode which shorted. if all good, next will be the horizontal output transistor or an open resistance going to the b+ of the flyback transformer.

Oct 04, 2012 | Televison & Video

2 Answers

No audio no video replaced convergence and resistor kit for tv and it flashed a few times and returned to original problem


Check what was done, make sure no bridge in solder, make sure correct amps were replaced, also there maybe fuses blown and need replacing,

Apr 29, 2011 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

Wont come on house was struck by lightning now everything comes on but the tv


Hi:
Open the television and follow the power cord to the main power supply board the fuse will be near this cords contact plug check for blown 5amp fuse, if fuse is not blown then power supply took a shock and needs repair.

Aug 18, 2010 | JVC AV-36D201 36" TV

1 Answer

Tv has no power


This could be caused by several things, the fuse in the plug or the internal fuse in the TV might have blown, if so this could have been caused by an electrical which means once replaced should be ok. However there is the probablity that a short circuit in the power supply has caused this. You will need to use a multi-meter & check if you have an incoming voltage from the mains & then through the on/off switch. If so, check what voltage supplies you are getting from the power supply. It is possible a supply resistor is open circuit or a semi-conductor component is at fault such as a transistor or diode. You need to extremely careful when checking power supplies as some components can hold a high voltage charge. If you do not feel confident to do this then I advise having a service engineer to have a look at it.

Nov 11, 2009 | JVC Televison & Video

1 Answer

Tv wont switch on


This could be a problem with the power supply. Yes there is a fuse on the power supply & if you have a multi-meter & are competent with electrical safety, you could test it. However, if it has blown then almost certainly something else will have caused it. You might have a short circuit bridge rectifier or faulty chopper transistor. If the fuse is ok, then you will need to check voltages from the power supply to find out what feeds you have. There may be a start resistor open circuit for example. If most of the start up voltages are ok, then you need to look at the line output stage & check if this circuit is getting any voltage supply.

Jul 15, 2009 | Panasonic CT-32SL13 32" TV

2 Answers

Fuse Blowing


A blown fuse is usually caused by a shorted regulator or a bridge rectifier circuit. Either way it is a problem in the primary power supply. A bad cord won't blow the fuse in the set, it will blow a circuit breaker in the house. A servicer usually would normally cover the inside of the set with a "few light slits in the AC cord". Hope this helps

Jun 02, 2007 | Sylvania 6626LCT 26 in. LCD Television

1 Answer

NO POWER, Yes blown fuse.


Was this the 220 ohm in the power supply??? and if the 5 amp blew right away then it probably took out the bridge rectifyer with the power surge that comes alog with hurricane damage to the power lines as I used to live in florida and repaired lots of sets damaged from storms!! After you check the bridge rectifyers I would start looking to find any other shorts. First measure across the ac line with the fuse replaced but not plugedf in . If its shorted check what I mentioned before if its good after you replace the shorted parts you maybe in luck. need more assistance go to sams photo facts download a schematic and we will trouble shoot this together if you post it here so i can look at it. good luck

May 02, 2006 | RCA P52929 52" Rear Projection Television

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