My flash don´t recicle more

Hey Bob how's it going ? I have been looking at Chevy service info for your vehicle and this a little on the complex side or that is the way it sounds from the turn signal description !
Turn Signal Lamps
The smart flasher (GMSF) is an automotive flasher designed to accept turn, hazard, and brake inputs. The GMSF will provide corresponding outputs to the exterior lamps and instrument panel turn signal indicator lamps. This lighting system has dedicated lamps for the turn/hazard functions and dedicated lamps for the brake function. The system incorporates the use of flash rates for diagnostics. The flash rate is a calculation of the number of flashes that occur within a 60 second period. This system uses a percentage of on-time to off-time called duty cycle. For the bulb outage condition, the indicator of the vehicle side on which the outage occurs shall assume bulb outage flash rate mode. The opposite side indicator will assume the normal flash rate mode for an input from the non bulb outage side of the vehicle. Hazard warning lamp outage will maintain a normal flash rate as long as 2 or more exterior signaling lamps are functional. During all modes of operation, the IPC will receive the same flash rates and duty cycles that the exterior lamps receive. The IPC will then control the indicators in the cluster. The vehicle operator will be provided with an audible and visual indication of the flasher operation. Below is a table with flash rates and duty cycles:
Are all your bulbs good ?
Operating Condition
Flash Rate
Duty Cycle
Normal
75 to 105 flashes per minute
45% to 55%
Turn Signal Lamp Outage
2 or 3 times faster than normal flash rate
35% to 55%

This set may use a color wheel if it has a lamp. A bad color wheel will make a fan like or high pitched sound.

If the wheel actually shatters (it can) the set will not function and will turn the lamp off.

See photo of color wheel and if you need to know I can tell you how to look at it.

It is fixable, I would inspect the power supply module for bad caps with domed tops first since it is four years old. Outlet is good for sure?
Please read my guide first:
If you are going to DIY and have proper tools, electronics knowledge, and know safety precaution then please read on:

Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting
http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals
Failed TV and Monitors pictures: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm
Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Parts: www.shopjimmy.com
Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/Default.aspx he can make you a set of caps.
Or www.digikey.com, just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current and long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series.

If the capacitor on the ballast was puffed up or blown up you have to replace the lamp, ballast & SMPS at the same time. But if the ballast is not trying to fire the lamp it sounds like the color wheel is not coming up to speed. If this is the case, the set will not turn on.

Does the pilot lamp light up? If so can you fire it manually by pressing on it? If the batteries are low it may simply just be taking a while to charge, the camera will not wait for it to be ready to fire and it may seem to be not working. If your flash can be fired manually however, there may be a problem with the cameras shutter or the hotshoe. You can do a basic check by pressing the star button at the rear of the camera, you should get a pre-flash. If not, there is a problem with the cameras hotshoe which you will need addressed by a service centre. If you get a preflash you can next check the cameras shutter by setting the second curtain to sync with the flash. This can be done via the cameras "Custom Function" menu, c-Fn 15. Set the camera to TV mode and chose a 1 second exposure. Take a shot with the flash attached, if the shutter is working correctly, the flash should fire a pre-flash and then a main flash. If it doesnt, the switch inside the shutter is broken and the shutter needs to be replaced. This is a pretty labour intensive repair and you may consider an upgrade as more economical.

Daytime Running Lamps
The daytime running lamp (DRL) system is designed to turn the high beam headlamps on, with a reduced light output, and without illuminating the high beam indicator lamp in the instrument panel. You have a DRL Module.
The multifunction switch is the stalk on your column.

This is 96 F150 circuit. Don't have 94.


Symptom Chart, Headlamps HEADLAMPS Condition Possible Source Action

• Headlamps Inoperative

• Circuitry open/shorted.
• Damaged headlamp switch.
• Blown fuse.

• GO to Pinpoint Test A .

• Headlamps On Continuously

• Circuitry open/shorted.
• Damaged headlamp switch.

• GO to Pinpoint Test B .

• High Beams or Low Beams Inoperative

• Circuitry open/shorted.
• Damaged multi-function switch.

• GO to Pinpoint Test C .

• One High Beam or One Low Beam Headlamp Inoperative

• Circuitry open/shorted.
• Damaged connector.
• Headlamp bulb damaged.

• GO to Pinpoint Test D .

• Flash-to-Pass Inoperative

• Blown fuse.
• Circuitry open/shorted.
• Damaged multi-function switch.

• GO to Pinpoint Test E .

the lamp has a life cicle. if yours is been used a lot. then the lamp has to be changed. when the tv cannot turn on steady and gets off imm. the computer inside the tv tries to turn off the set but the lamp charges again and the micro tends to keep working. the first step to take in this tv is to change the lamp to eliminate this common source of problems

I've been trying to find th thermal fuse on a 42we655 for like 3 weeks...It's not under the lamp...Any one know where it is?

Thanks