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Re: Replacing the Logic board
OK. Start by remiving the cover, fan, adaptor card and power supply. Remove from the logic board: The hard drive power cable, hard drive data cable and the floppy drive cable. with the rear of the case facing you, release the two tabs with your forefingers while at the same time as pushing on the 120-pin connector with your right thumb. Slide the logic board to the front of the case until it stops. Caution: Be sure the power on/off button
clears the rear panel before you lift the logic board out of the case.
While lifting the board, do not touch connector
J19 or J20. (The oil from your skin harms
Gently lift the board out of the case.
Replacement Note: Remove the SIMMs from the
defective logic board and install them on the
replacement logic board.
I really hope this helps because it is correct information. If you want to be extra cautious, visit a repair shop instead. Good Luck!
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On all units that I repair, I replace all nine of the power supply board capacitors regardless of the voltages. There are poor quality capacitors and are going to fail at some time in the future. The logic board caps are the same through hole type as the power supply. Yes there are many surface mount capacitors but none of these have need to be replaced. Replacing the logic board caps are very difficult because of the inner plane layer that acts like a giant heat sink. I use a desoldering station that has a suction pump and set the temperature to 850 degrees F. First I unsolder the square pad lead as this one is easy. The other lead requires more time, I hold the iron on until I can move the capacitor lead and turn on the suction as I pull the part out of the hole. Even with this process the holes do not always come clean and require additional work. Without the desoldering station it is very difficult and I would not recommend attempting it.
The white glow with no picture means that either the ribbon cable connection between the logic board and the monitor has come lose or dirty contacts, or the LCD Controller (T-CON) board (part of the LCD panel is not getting 5v or 12v depend on LCD panel from the logic board or the LCD controller board has blown fuse, see pictures here for guide (note pin on the LCD board with arrow mark is pin 1 and is the incoming DC power supply line): http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/LCD%20panel/?action=view¤t=DSCF0881.jpg
You may also want to look for bad caps (bulging top) on the logic board. There should be 5vdc feeding the logic board also.
Hi, This could indicate some component overheating/damaged. I haven't worked on a monitor like yours, but on several occassions I noticed that the problem was caused by blown capacitors. This can usually be spotted if you inspect the capacitors on the logic board carefully. If they are bulging or you can see black goo "leaking" from them then they need replacing. Other than that, troubleshooting of other components on the logic board is far too complicated to describe here. Hope this helps, Raf
bad vga board however you can open it up and see if the capactors are blown replacing them may solve this problem however when an LCD monitor goes white typically it is the microchip that has gone bad so I sell the monitor for parts and buy a new one.
The totally white screen and no On Screen Display / Menu indicates your monitor is definitely faulty. Unfortunately the only solution is to have the monitor repaired, or buy a new monitor. If the monitor is still under warranty, the manufacturer should replace or repair it. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news :(
If you know someone that is technically experienced and is willing to try, replacing the logic board is fairly simple assuming you can find an exact replacement. I suggest searching google for AL1916W video board or logic board, you might find an electronics store that carries the part, or you might find one on eBay.