Light switch feels hot

Dear John,
You are exactly right with your observation.
You will need to remove the light from the ceiling to repair it.
When you take it down, you will find the "thermal switch " attached to the socket, and may possibly have to buy a whole new "can light", as you might not be able to find a replacement "thermal switch".
God bless your efforts.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-add-switch.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Basic-household-circuit.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Install-owb.html

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Don't know what you're working with.

AC household electricity?

Common (White) wire goes to all three lights. Goes to silver colored screw.
Hot (Black) wire goes to switch, then all three lights.

ALWAYS put the switch in the hot wire. Not the Common.
Reason?
Let's say you are changing a light bulb.
Your feet are on the floor. You are then considered to be Grounded.

You have the light switch off. You go to remove the light bulb, slip, and a finger goes in the socket.
Result?
You get shocked.

Hot (Black) wire has the switch. This time of you slip, and a finger goes in the light bulb socket; you won't be shocked.
The power is turned off at the switch.

Common wire comes from source. (Service Panel/'Breaker Box'), and goes to the lights.
Hot (Black) wire comes from source, and goes to light switch.
Then to the first light, second light, and third light.

Is there a 3-way switch involved?
Walk in one end of the room, turn the light on, walk to the other end of the room, and turn it off?

Post back in a Comment as to the exact query.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Test each light separately.
Black Hot wire arrives at one screw on the switch. The Hot black wire going to Lights connects to other screw on the switch.
The White Neutral that completes the circuit to lights is connected with other white wires that are covered with wire nut pushed to back of box.
Open up light#1, and the Hot and Neutral arrive from switch box.
The Hot and Neutral going to lights#2-6 are also located inside light#1 box.
Check each wire for signs of high heat and burning. Check each wire if the insulation has been sliced, or cut short, or if copper is visible because wire nut does not cover wires correctly
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-select-right-wire-nut.html
Disconnect Hot and Neutral going to lights#2-6, so switch is only turning on light#1.
Test if there is a short when turning switch ON.
Then repeat step, so switch turns on light#1 and light#2, but light#3-6 are disconnected.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

HI. This is the direct result of a failed door switch. This switch controls the actual evaporator fan, as well. This dysfunctional switch must be replaced, asap. This replacement will correct your issues. The switch will generally be loctaed or mounted near the door jamb or recessed near the the door and unit structure intersecting areas or closing points. Once extracted, it can be tested for proper functionality with a ohm/multimeter.

twist the kitchen and live wire together and use that for the hot side of your dimmer for the livingroom

Remove a hot wiring device immediately.

This is not safe.

I just found your post, and am going to send the response now without discussing the dimmer.

You can add a comment and get in touch with me.

If a three way switch is wired correctly you can turn off the light or appliance from either switch as you can also turn it on from either switch. If you have two doors entering into your living room and a three way switch for the main light at each entrance then either switch can turn the light on as you enter or either switch and turn the light off as you exit.

It sounds as if you may have higher wattage bulbs and/or the wrong type of bulb installed in the can fixtures than the recessed cans are rated for.

When the wattage of the bulbs is higher than the rating of the fixture, and/or the wrong bulbs are being used, the recessed can's thermal overload device will shut off the light, to prevent damage and a possible fire situation.

It is unlikely that you've got a faulty dimmer, since you state that not all of the lights go off at once, thus it can be narrowed down to each can and thus the thermal overload being the culprit.

I would suggest you look inside the recessed can light fixture and determine what the maximum wattage bulb you can use, (60, 75, 90 watts, etc.) and use the next lower wattage bulb instead. I also install only Halogen bulbs in recessed cans, (they have a flat lens vs. a rounded bulb lens area like PAR type bulbs). Halogen bulbs are also the most efficient incandesent bulb that provides the whitest light possible and directs more light (and thus heat) downward away from the recessed can.

I avoid using a standard light bulb or PAR type bulbs in any recessed can fixtures as they tend to heat up quite a bit and cause the thermal protection to trip frequently.

As a Master Electrician that has installed literally thousands of recessed fixtures and dimmers, I can say that my customers prefer the Halogen light over standard bulbs and they last longer too.

I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Do you mean you want to replace your recessed with a fan with no light? Try to visit www.contemporarylightingdecor.com, they have lighting and fan experts who could give free advice.