I have an od code on my washer. It won't run this was. If I pull the power cord and then plug it back in -- the code goes away and the washer runs fine. I think the code means open door. But it is not open. Is there any way that this can be repaired.
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Has the AC jack been damaged in the Linksys, due to pulling of the cord? Try wiggling the plug at the rear of the linksys to verify the connection. Check, reseat ALL cables. If it's connected to the ISP modem, can you use a Ethernet cable on the Linksys to the computer to verify signal? It may be bad, hard to say for sure.
We had the same problem (washer would not turn on). The problem was a small fuse blown in the power noise filter unit. The unit is a plastic block near the top of the washer on the inside - connected to the power cord. It is a very commonly produced unit and goes in a number appliances. The fuse inside fails frequently (so I hear) and is extremely difficult to replace due to the protective-covering material so it's easier to just replace the whole unit. I purchased a replacement unit for about $30.
Very easy fix:
1. Unplug the washing machine. 2. Take off the top of the washing machine (two screws in the back) 3. Identify the noise filter unit (top of washing machine, hanging on the right with the power cord attached to it). 4. Remove with one screw and unplug the two cables going into the noise filter unit. Slide out the unit. 5. Put in new unit. Screw it in, and plug the two cables into it. 6. Put the top of the washing machine back on (not necessary to test if the new unit works) 7. Plug in washer and run.
Unplug the Kenmore
washer power cord from the wall outlet. Pull the washer 2 feet away
from the rear wall. Locate the screws that fasten the control console to
the top of the washer. Remove the screws with a Phillips-head
screwdriver and raise the control console to the rear of the washer. The
console has two hinges on the back that it will rest on while in this
Locate the wiring harness connector that connects to the door
switch plug. The connector is white, and is toward the top rear of the
washer. Grab the sides of the connector with your fingers and pull it
away from the door switch plug.
Unhook the washer cabinet from the rear panel. There are two
clips on the top of the washer that secure the cabinet to the rear
panel. Place a flathead screwdriver into each clip, and pry the clip off
the washer cabinet. Grab the sides of the washer cabinet and pull the
cabinet away from the washer.
Find the water pump
below the washer tub. The pump attaches to the top of the motor and has
two hoses attached to it as well. Place a small container under the
hose connections to the water pump. Grab the ears on the compression
clamp securing the upper hose to the pump with a pair of Channellock
pliers. Squeeze the ears together with the pliers and slide the clamp
down the hose. Pull the hose off the pump and set the end in the
Grab the ears on the compression clamp holding the lower hose
to the water pump with the Channellock pliers. Squeeze the ears
together and slide the clamp down the hose. Pull the hose away from the
water pump. Locate the two large black clips that secure the pump to the
motor. Pry the clips off with a flathead screwdriver. Pull the pump
away from the motor.
Position the new pump over the motor and secure the pump with
the two retaining clips. Connect the upper hose to the upper port on
the water pump. This is the hose that connects to the tub. Use the
Channellock pliers to compress the ears on the clamp and slide the clamp
over the end of the hose and port on the pump.
Slide the lower hose over the lower port on the water pump.
Slide the compression clamp over the end of the hose and water pump port
to secure the hose. Grab the sides of the washer cabinet and position
the cabinet over the washer base. Secure the cabinet to the rear panel
with the retaining clips. The clips will snap back into their respective
holes in the top of the washer cabinet.
Reconnect the wiring harness to the door switch plug. Slide
the harness over the plug until it snaps into position. Lower the
control console back over the washer top and secure with the retaining
screws. Plug the power cord into the wall outlet and push the washer
back to its working position.
Try removing the spark plug then pulling the cord! If the cord pulls then you cycle the engine a couple of time to see if fuel is coming out of the spark plug hole! If no fuel present replace spark plug and try starting the engine. always have water running through your washer before you attemp to start!
if your handy , you can fix that. first see if you can get the dryer going again. unplug everything and use a pair of wire cutters to remove the damaged cord off the dryer , make sure all that damaged wiring is unplugged and away from the dryer and plug your dryer back in and reset the circuit breaker and try the dryer. hopefully its okay. then unplug everything again, pull the washer out and look where the damaged cord goes into the machine, the back of the washer may have to come off. remove the strain relief fitting by turning a quartewr turn clockwise, remove the ground wire and remove the wires off their posts carefully. look carefully at the cord for a ridged end of the cord or writing on the cord this is your neutral side of the wire, make sure when you replace with the new cord the wiring is exactly the way it was on the old cord. reorder the cord from the sears parts store and hopefully that gets you going. if things are worse than this or you have any doubt, call the repairman..jm
Best to run hose for a minute before connecting to machine to clear any debris from hose, plug hose to machine and pull trigger to run water through, plug into power and away you go, when trigger not pulled unit goes into bypass mode, it is advised to not leave in bypass for more than about 5 minutes, this model is light and can easly be over heated so I would advise to switch off at machine and run water through every 20 minutes to half an hour for at least a couple of minutes, after you have finised using unit, switch off at machine, disconect water and power then squeeze trigger to release pressure from pump.
I agree with fastnhonda troubleshooting.I will just toss out some additional info. I’m an owner like you just trying to troubleshoot from a distance.The OD alarm is signaled by the control board when the control board has not seen a lid open signal from the left lid lock for three completed wash cycles.Could be corrosion issues with the left lid lock and or plug connecting to the left lid lock.If you pull the power plug on the machine then re-power up does the “OD” alarm clear? This might clear the “OD” alarm for three wash cycles.If it does can you do this; open the washer lid and start a Spin Only cycle with the lid open do you throw an OP (Lid Is Open) alarm to the console? If so do you clear the “OP” alarm when you close the lid?I’m checking the signaling functionally of the Left Lid Lock assembly of the magnetic reed relay and lid magnet thru the left lid lock and plug back to the control board. If no results come from above testing and you want to DIY the repair I would remove the left lid lock (remove the left lid lock as shown on page 34 of the SM) and inspect for corrosion issues as the other forum member speaks to and a possible broken wire connection on the magnetic reed relay. See the red & black wire going to magnetic reed relay switch as shown in the pic. below. Note the black wire is broken away from one end of the magnetic reed relay do to corrosion.If you take apart the left lid lock the tabs holding the case halves together break off very easy so be careful on disassembly.I would not replace the right lid lock just yet.Removing the plugs on the lid locks is difficult so be careful.I would remove the left lid lock and inspect and clean up wih WD-40 if there are corrosion issues such as shown below or a broken wire (re-solder) on the magnitic reed relay.If this doesn’t resolve the “OD” alarm I would then replace the left lid lock only at this time.The right lid lock is not needed for normal washer operation.
Disconnect the washer power cord. To raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point.
Maytag's service center emailed me back saying that I needed to purchase a magnet for the right side of the lid, even after I sent them photos of the lid. There is no magnet on the right side, so don't be fooled! The lid comes apart fairly easily. First, with a screwdriver, apply a little downward pressure and pry out the center liquid/powder holder. It is hinged on the bottom and will come right out. Next, pull out on the bottom corners and the lid liner will come straight down. Now you can verify that the magnet (on the left side!) is there and seated correctly. If that is the case, go ahead and reassemble. Unplug the washer. Lift up the top portion of the washer (at the crease). You may need a screwdriver to pry up on it. I didn't. I just pulled up on it. It comes up fairly easily. Now you can see the locks, mounted with one bolt on either side. Inspect the wiring for any wear or damage. Next, remove the locks one at a time, unhook the wire connector and plug them back in. Reassemble. Leave the lid up (not sure if it matters, but I did) and plug the washer back in. That's all I did and it worked! The "od" alarm didn't come back.