Question about Whirlpool 24 in. GU1200XT Built-in Dishwasher
SOURCE: Door latch is in "LOCKED" position however the door is open!
It is possible that you have a problem with the door?s sensor, maybe it?s turned off or maybe some water fell on it. This is the reason why the micro controller interpret that the door is still open, and that?s why the washing procedure does not start. You have to find the manual and determine where is the location of the sensor and then see in what state it is (Turned off, wet, or damaged)
Posted on Jul 12, 2007
SOURCE: whirlpool washer problem with door
I believe you are talking about the lid switch. To replace follow these steps: 1. UNPLUG the machine first. 2. Remove the console. You will have one of two types of consoles with two separate methods of removal. a. The first type is a matter of removing the two end caps of the console by lifting up on the end cap from back behind the console and pulling towards you. The cap should just pop off. There will be a groove present on the top rear that you can gently pry with a screwdriver if you can't remove by hand. You will need to remove the philips screw under the end caps and the console will lift up. Be careful not to break the plastic hinges that hold the console in place. You can lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel in a resting position. b. The second type of console (usually found on some of the newer models) has a retaining clip under each end cap at the front corners. You will need to carefully slide a putty knife between the end cap and top of the machine from the front. Push in to release the retaining clip and lift up. This may be a little tricky trying to get both ends to release together. The console lifts up in the same manner as described before. Again, be careful not to break the plastic hinges that hold the console on. 3. You will find two brass colored clips under the console. Place a flat blade screwdriver in the clip groove on the washer top and push away from you. This will release the retaining clip that holds the case to the back of the machine. Remember how they came off, because you will need to put them back in. 4. Disconnect the lid switch plug from the connector. This is a white plug that is mounted physically to the washer top casing. 5. Lift the lid and place one hand under the front rim of the casing and pull up from the rear towards you. The entire casing should lift off the frame. 6. The lid switch is located on the right side of the machine in most washers. Some are located in the back on the left hand side. In either case they are fairly simple to remove. There should be a couple of mounting screws and a ground wire to remove first. Then the switch (with harness) should come off. You will need to carefully remove the connector from the casing by using a small screwdriver to release the tabs holding it in. 7. The new switch will install using the reverse order of the steps I just mentioned. 8. Placing the case back on the frame can be tricky. Lift the lid again and place one hand under the front rim of the casing. Looking down through the lid, place the front of the casing UNDER the frame first and slowly lower the rest to the back. There are two cleats on the frame that must line up with two holes in the casing. Once the casing lines back up on the frame, set it down all the way and pull the back up to meet the casing so you can place the brass retaining clips back in. Place the clips in the groove on the back first, then push down until they snap back into the hole on the washer casing top. You may have to use a little effort to get them back in. 9. Reinstall the console. I know this seems like a lot, but it should help you replace the switch. Getting the machine case to line back up is the hardest part of the procedure, but you can do it if you take your time. Let me know if you have any further questions.
Posted on Jul 17, 2007
SOURCE: Detergent dispenser won't empty
TAKE THE TOP OFF AND ON THE DEPENSER ASSEMBLY IS A PLASTIC CAM MANY TIMES THESE POP OFF IF SO JUST POP IT BACK ON IF IT ISNT BROKEN IN PEICES
Posted on Jan 02, 2008
SOURCE: Main Detergent Dispenser does not open during cycle
check to see if anything like dried up soap in there if so wash out with warm water or try a liquid
Posted on Mar 31, 2008
SOURCE: torn seal on Duet
If you are talking about the door boot, follow these instructions:
This advice is for the Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet FRONT LOADER style washing machines. A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn’t cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:
1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.
I hope you find these instructions helpful and good luck to you. Let me know if you need further assistance.
Posted on Apr 08, 2008
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