Question about Kicker Solo-Baric L7 S15L72 Car Subwoofer
What size amp and what type?
I would recommend a brand named class D amplifier.
Connect both woofers in parallel (Positive to positive, and negetive to negetive) in a sealed enclosure. Make sure you have no air leaks. By connecting them in parallel the combined impedance will be two ohms. Make sure that the amplifier you choose can handle a load with that low of a resistance. Any high end amp should do this. Buy as much power as you can, but I would say a minimum of 1000W RMS. Beware of cheaper amps advertising "peak power". This can be considered half of what the RMS power would be (1200W peak = 600W RMS approximately).
Next, Run very heavy gauge (zero guage if you can) power line directly from the battery. Protect the wire where it passes through the body with a rubber grommet or otherwise something to keep the metal from cutting into it, and PUT A FUSE IN. I cant stress that enough. Put an 80 amp fuse in line incase you have an accident. Otherwise your car could very well burn!
Want even more punch?
Back at the amp, install the largest stiffener capacitor you can afford 1 Farad or bigger. Install this in a space where it would be protected in the event of an accident (on the inside of the strut tower or somewhere above the axle). There is a whole lot of energy stored in there that you don't want unleashed on you!
If you have any other questions please ask away!
Posted on Apr 13, 2009
Those L7's can handle 1000 watts each, but they will operate with as little as 100 watts. So you have lots of choices. You can get a 2-channel amp and run one from each channel, a 2-channel bridgeable and run both from the bridged terminals, or a single-channel amp designed specifically for subs.
The last would be my recommendation. Dollars for watts, the 2-channel or 2-channel bridgeable is probably less expensive, but there will be more wiring and hence more opportunities for induced noise. Also, most of the subwoofer amps will really be stable at 2 ohms. Some, perhaps many of the 2-channel bridgeable, will not be stable below 4 ohms in bridged mode. And lower impedance means more power to your subs, so I'd shoot for that 2 ohm stable and run those subs with the coils in series and the subs in parallel for a final 2 ohm load. And you want something that puts out in the neighborhood of 600-1000 watts into that load.
If money is no problem, take a look at the JL Slash v2 series. At about $1,200, the v2 will put an honest 1000 watts into 2 ohms. If your budget is more modest, consider the MTX Thunder Elite 801D at about $600. It'll give you 800 watts which will still make those L7's louder than most people can stand. And if you want even cheaper, but still good, consider the Kicker 08ZX750.1 at about $500. You could go cheaper still, but it's just not right to drive those L7's with anything less than a five-hundred-dollar amp and anything less than 750 watts of power.
Posted on Apr 13, 2009
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