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Roper gas dryer not heating

I have a roper gas dryer that is not heating up . the thermal fuse is good and the glow plug lights but i cant see if the whole thig lights up . the dryer really squeeks bad . I would like to oil or grease it and replace the glow plug , how do i open it up and do you think its the glow plug

Posted by bano on

  • bano Sep 13, 2007

    big help , that you , it was the coils

  • dave1234 Jan 03, 2008

    gasnot coming on


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The glow plug (ignitor)must draw 3 amps or more to function properly if its ok check the flame sensor for continuity located on the side of the burner housing and if its ok then the gas coils on the top of the gas valve are faulty let me know if this helps

Posted on Sep 12, 2007

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I have a Roper gas dryer model #RGD4640YQ2 and the product will turn on but will not heat up. As far as I can tell the gas line is fine and getting gas to the dryer. Please advise

There are three main culprits that could be your problem: Unplug your dryer and first, check the thermal fuse located on the blower assembly. It's about an inch long, white plastic piece that has two terminals sticking up. Disconnect one of the leads to it and use an ohmeter to check continuity. It should read a short if it's good. If that's not it, hook the lead back up that you took off to test the thermal fuse, plug your dryer back into the outlet and turn on your dryer and watch your glow bar. It should glow brightly. If it doesn't, then replace the glow bar. If it does glow brightly, but you still aren't getting any flame, replace the gas valve coils. If, that doesn't do it, then the final most likely culprit is the flame sensor (also called a "radiant sensor").

Good luck!
Oct 18, 2014 • Dryers

Roper gas dryer does not ignite.

The problem is the ignitor...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that problem...

Apr 07, 2010 • Dryers

I have a 6yro roper gas dryer. model : rgx5634kq2 everything works except it wont heat up ignitor is good as well as thermal fuse

Hello, If your igniter is glowing does not mean it's good, Take a look at it while it is glowing..Is it orange in color..Uneven glow? then it's bad...the igniter needs to be pulling 3.5 amps in order for a) the gas valve to open B) gas to ignite once gas valve opens. The glow should be a brillient yellow that you find hard to look at. If the igniter is bad the only other possibilty is the flame sensor. It is the gadget hooked to the side of the tube where the flame is. Using an ohms meter disconnect the 2 wires from the terminals and check for condinuity..If you have no reading (condinuity) you should replace it. Good Luck!!! If you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again. Mike

Roper Gas Dryer

The first thing I would check is the thermal fuse (#6 on the bulkhead parts break down diagram). Replace if it's open.
Also, the manufacturer recommended to replace the cycling thermostat (#8 on the bulkhead parts break down diagram) too if the thermal fuse is open.

- The part number for the thermal fuse AP3132867

- The part number for the cycling thermostat AP3131939

- Here are the break down diagrams for the Roper dryer Model RGX4634KQ2

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Gas dryer not heating


Dryer tumbles, no heat

its a gas dryer it doesnt have ,,heating element...replace thermal fuse

Dryer wont heat

ck whiten thermal fuse on blkower housing of dryer may be behind back panel..if fuse of ck the flame sensor with volt ohm meter should show a complete circuit..or just jump it out in any case should be 110volts fed to connector going to valve ..also may be bad ignitor (glow plug)may show burnt spot

Roper gas dryer works intermittently!

suspect coils on gas valve if ignitor glows timer is working

Dryer won heat timer dosen't avance

huntman, the model posted shows as a gas dryer. In the lower left side there is a square plastic peep hole. Take a putty knife and pull it off. Set the dryer to high heat and take a look in the hole. Does the ignitor glow? If it doesn't you either have a bad thermal fuse or a bad ignitor. Start with the thermal fuse. You will have to remove the back panel to get at it. I will attach a photo. You can ohm it out, or just jump the wires temp. to see if the ignitor glows. If theral fuse is good and the ignitor does glow, you probabley have a bad set of coils. These sit on the gas valve are easy to replace. The timer won't advance without the heat. Check this out back.
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Over-oiled Hunter Original ceiling fan When I tried to I oil one of my Hunter Original fans for the first time, I obviously did not understand how you measure the oil in the reservoir and, long story short, I added too much oil. I wiped as much of it out of the light fixture as I could, and when I noticed there was oil dripping from the end of the pull chains for the fan and the light, l wrapped pieces of an old rag around the end of each rubber bands to hold the fabric onto the chains. I then put the fabric wrapped chain ends in small ziploc bags and sealed them either side of the chain so they wouldn't fall off. All this was to prevent oil from continuing to drip onto my kitchen table as it had originally. They've been like that for what's probably been 6 to 8 months as I believe the over-oiling incident happened last fall. I haven't really tried to do anything about it until now when it's starting to get to the point here in the Florida Panhandle where I'd really like that fan above my kitchen table to work. But I'm afraid to turn it on because I've read that oil would get all over the flywheel if you to put too much oil in the reservoir, and it would spray out everywhere if you turned on the fan. I didn't worry about it over the winter although I do sometimes reverse them and use them when it's really cold out but we didn't even have that cold a winter so I pretty much ignored it until now. I'm pretty sure there's no more oil coming out of the fan down the pull chains because the small amounts of oil captured in the ziploc bags certainly hasn't increased and I think some of it has actually evaporated because it seems like there's less than there was earlier although it's not like I've measured it. I will, of course, start by measuring the oil in the reservoir. I wonder if it's possible some of it has evaporated. And I was wondering whether if it's still overfilled I might be able to suck out some of the oil with an eyedropper. But the question about there possibly being oil on the flywheel is still kind of freaking me out. Is there any way I can deal with this without having to take down the fan? I simply can't do that myself because it's way up high and they are too heavy for me to hold while standing way up on a I had an electrician install all my 4 Hunter Original fans for that reason. I can call an electrician to care of this if I need to, but I'm hoping I won't need to. Does anyone out there have experience with this situation and what I can do to help get my fan working before it gets even hotter out here in the Florida Panhandle? Is my idea of sucking oil out of the reservoir with an eye dropper, for example, legitimate? Is it possible oil that got on the flywheel has evaporated over time, or that the oil which slowly ran down the pull chains came from the area where the flywheel is and that perhaps there's no more to fly out of the fan if I turn it on? Does anyone know how much oil that little oil reservoir holds or how deep it is? That's all the questions I can think of for now. I hope someone who might read this has the knowledge to help me. I looked all over online and all I could find was about how to add oil - the exact opposite of what I want to do! I should note that I haven't called the Hunter Fan Company because it's not like these fans are under warranty, I don't think as I bought all four of mine on eBay. I guess I have paperwork with the model numbers and that sort of thing but I thought I'd start here because it's easier and friendlier than many customer service personnel are.

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