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Re: colors won't stay set
NOTE: Manual Convergence settings ARE LOST if the customer returns to AUTO
Magic Focus mode. (More Details) this situation is normal.
Bottom line: This is caused by two issues,
The Centering is off of any or all CRTs. (Don't forget Red and Blue Offset values).
The Horizontal Size needs to be changed by increasing H. Size by 20mm.
Readjust the Horizontal Size to the NEW specifications.
These are different that the original Service Manual.
They have been increased by 20mm on 51", 57" and by 25mm on the 65".
Before replacing DCUs, Please CHECK and confirm if any of the three color center alignments are off and readjust the Horizontal Size to the New specifications..
Clear DCU data by holding down the DCAM "Service Only Switch" and then POWER.
Make sure the Green is centered.
Make sure the Red and Blue is offset from center with respective offset value according to the SM information.
Readjust the Horizontal Size to the NEW specifications. These are different that the original Service Manual. They have been increased by 20mm on the 51" and the 57" and on the 65" it's increased by 25mm.
There IS NO NEED to replace DCUs.
The DCUs are not defective...All that is needed is to confirm the Centering Adjustment for the three colors and adjust the Horizontal Size to the NEW specifications. Adjust if any color is found to be out of adjustment specifications. If you don't understand this then you need live chat!
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just had the same problem and i ended up having to change the altenator, for 2 or 3 weeks i would have to bang on the altenator with a hammer while it was running because my battery light would keep coming on. but after a few taps with a hammer you could actually here it start working again. i did that one to many times and broke the housing on the altenator and eventually had to replace it.
ABSOLUTELY! Purchase a 'Y' adapter from your local hardware store and attach the hot and cold lines on the washer to the 'Y' attached to the cold faucet. You won't be able to wash in warm or hot without changing the hoses, though.
The "D board" is the flyback transformer, but if it was bad, you would have no picture at all. Here is a proven method to get it to work (for a while....)
The adjustment method is to put the set on a video input with nothing conected to that input. Turn the screen control up slowly until those fine lines appear and then down until they just disappear. Do this with all three colors. You might need to turn one of them down a little initially if the set won't stay on long enough to get to adjustments. You cannot do the adjustment on a TV station or on live video input. If the adjustments are too high, the set will turn bright and shutdown. If they are too low you will never get a picture at all.
You would want to touchup the adjustments after a warmup of a few hours, then recheck the next day when cold.
If the adjustments are successfull and the set stays on but the color reproduction is very poor then one of the tubes is probably bad.
If you are lucky and everything turns out OK, you will probably need to do it every year or so.
Problem new or old? How long you have unit? Sounds like not enough flow to keep burner on. Tankless need at least .6 gpm to keep hot water flowing or else the burner fires then shuts fires then shuts and you get a sandwich effect...hot cold hot cold. If you have new diverter valve in shower -vs- old two handle type try turning hot water ALL the way ON and see if hot stays hot. If it does stay hot then slowly adjust to cool and see if you maintain a good MIX for proper temp. If it goes cold again try this......LOWER control pad setting to a comfortable 105 degrees (ladies) 100 degrees(men) and turn shower valve all the way to HOT. See if your temp remains consistant now and if it does then problem solved. Tankless mindset...set temp on control pad and stop trying to MIX at shower valve. Thats how these things work. Thats why I install a control pad in each bath and one in the kitchen for adjusting ash temp during dishwasher on time. ditto for wash machine. You should never need to turn on cold water if your unit is set to proper temp at controller. Hope this helps
Run the hottest & fullest cycle possible - without a load - and add a grease remover - like goo-gone. Fatty tissues build up inside the tub - and can be released on hot cycles if HOT wasn't used very often.
It is recommended to run a HOT load every 2 weeks or so to avoid these buildups and staining of clothes.
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