Condensate drain plugged need to remove evaporatror cover to fix -- how to remove the cover ? no screws

Here is the link to the manual:

http://s3.amazonaws.com/szmanuals/b0348062b23e23cd40550b61e1dc5f43


Here are those particular instructions:

Compressor Indicator

The " " icon will light up on the control panel display when the compressor turns on. The " " icon will turn off when the compressor shuts off.

Emergency Condensate Holding Tank

When the room temperature is low and the indoor humidity is high, the air conditioner may not be able to evaporate some of the moisture fast enough. When this happens, the water will accumulate in an emergency condensate tank inside the unit. Once the emergency condensate tank is full, the unit will automatically shut off and the " " will appear on the control panel display. To empty the condensate tank, unscrew the screw plug at the bottom back of the unit. You will need a small pan, approximately 1" high to catch the water coming out of the condensate tank. Once the condensate tank is drained, the unit will begin working within a few minutes. The emergency condensate tank holds approximate
ly 1.5 Liters of water.

Another option is to purchase a small hose from a hardware store that can fit around the 5/8" drain plug on the back of the unit and drain the unit into a gravity drain or larger pan for continuous drainage.

To resume operation quickly, empty the water container according to the following steps:

1. Turn the unit off. Do not move the unit when the water container is full.

2. Place the drain pan accessory under the drainage port at the back of the unit.

3. Remove the screw plug from the drain hole. The condensate water will drain out automatically. When the drain pan is full, screw the screw plug back onto the drainage hole to stop the water flow. Empty the drain pan. Repeat until all the water is emptied.

Once the water container has been emptied, screw the plug back onto the drain hole. Do not allow the
water to drip continuously into the drain pan, as it might easily overflow.

It is possible that the drain hole on condensate pan is plugged and causing water to over flow pan. Remove cover from unit and check drain line.Clean coils andpan as best you can and clear drain hole. Add a small amount of bleach to water in drain pan.This will kill any algea or bacteria that may be growing in condensate water and plugging the drain. Thank you

1. Set parking brake and disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Discharge and recover system refrigerant. Refer to: "Service and Repair" See: Service and Repair
3. Disconnect all engine compartment heater and air conditioning lines and vacuum hoses.
4. Drain engine coolant and plug lines. Refer to: "Engine, Cooling and Exhaust : Cooling System : Service and Repair" See: Engine, Cooling and Exhaust\Cooling System\Service and Repair
5. Remove instrument panel. Refer to: "Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators : Instrument Panel : Service and Repair" . See: Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators\Instrument Cluster / Carrier\Service and Repair
6. Disconnect air conditioning hanger strap and temporarily reposition.
7. Remove rubber condensate drain tube and four mounting nuts in engine compartment.
8. Pull heater/air conditioning assembly to rear until unit studs clear dash panel, then drop unit down and remove from vehicle.
9. Place heater/air conditioning assembly on suitable workbench, then remove screw at vacuum harness and feed harness through hole in cover.
10. Remove thirteen screws from top cover, then remove top cover.
11. Remove screw from heater core tube retaining bracket, then lift heater core out of unit.
12. Remove evaporator core from unit.
13. Reverse procedure to install.

If it's leaking inside where filter cover is, then real good chance the drains being plugged is the only problem. If water (condensation) not running off roof when operating in cool mode, then I'd bet drains, which are located under unit on roof, and you should see them sticking down like buttons. They have a hole in side that needs cleaning with a pipe cleaner or similar to open them up. If need be, shut off power to unit and remove top cover on roof unit and look for the drain holes in base, and clean them out. If water comes in while raining, but AC not running, then it's gasket. That is remedied by removing ceiling assembly (just screws) and 4 bolts that pull/hold the upper and lower assemblies together, unplug wiring to upper unit, and simply lift it off, change gasket and re-install. Tighten those 4 bolts equally when gasket is aligned properly over hole, only until gasket is approx 1/2, original thickness. Plug harness back in and your done. (about an hours work.) Only other thing that may be wrong is styrofoam drip tray for cooling unit, under cover on roof may have a crack , allowing condensation to leak in. If that 's the case, you can try to find a sealant compatible with styrofoam to seal those cracks.

Drain in freezer compartment is plugged.
Mold (fungus) buildup sometimes restricts water flowing into condensate tube in the defrost cycle, and water somehow can enter in the refrigerator compartment and out the bottom of the refrigerator door.
You must clean the condensate tube!
You must remove back cover in freezer. One screw in left upper corner behind plastic screw plug will allow you to remove the cover exposing evapourator coil and condensate drain tube hole below it. Must also remove back cover at rear of refrigerator exposing the condensate drain tube END which may be restricted also.Tube must be totally cleared to allow the water created from defrost cycle to exit to the drain pan in the bottom of the refrigerator.

just after having the same problem on my Bosch condenser dryer, remove the top cover by removing the two screws on the rear panel, slide the top cover aft to remove it. when the cover is lifted clear you will see where the drain hose to the collection container is installed, look at the aft l/h corner, you will see a black hose comming up through the corner which attaches to a white plastic end piece which is clipped to the frame of the dryer. Release the clip which hold the white end piece, pull the end piece from the hose, there's a good chance that the end piece is block with fluff etc, blow through from the opposite to clear any blockage, blow through the hose to make sure that its not blocked also. Hopefully this will cure your problem , rebuild in reverse order ----- Hope this helps

Hi there,

I hope below steps can help..

1. Disconnect the ground cable from the battery terminal. 2. Disconnect the fan motor connector. 3. Loosen the radiator drain plug to drain the coolant. 4. Disconnect the upper and lower hoses and overflow tube after marking the radiator hose and the hose clamp the ease reassembly.

Cover or plug the hose and inlets of the radiator so that dust and other foreign material etc. can not enter after the hose is disconnected from theradiator. 5. For vehicles with automatic transaxles, disconnect the oil cooler hoses from the automatic transaxle. 6. Remove the air conditioner condenser fixing bolts and radiator bracket fixing nuts. 7. Remove the radiator and the fan motor. 8. Remove the radiator fan motor and condenser fan motor from the radiator. Regards, Jeep Brainy

I have the same AC and had this problem. Sludge builds up inside the bottom of the unit from dust and water build up causing it not to drain and the fan spits the water out. Its a fairly simple fix with a philips screw driver and a wet vac. Unplug the AC first. Remove the AC from the window. Remove the screw inside the front panel below the filter screen. Then you can pop the whole front panel off by pulling it with a little pressure. Now you need to remove the 3 screws holding each of the slider panels onto the side of the AC. Then remove the 3 screws on the bottom of the left and bottom of the right side of the AC. Remove the 3 screws holding the bar on top of the AC. Lastly remove the 2 screws on the back of the AC in the bottom Left and Right corners. You can now pull the top cover off. You can now use your wet vac to vacuum out the sludge that is in the bottom of the AC from the right and left side. There's a ground wire that connects from the fan motor to the bottom plate of the AC, be careful not to hit it. I knocked mine off possibly to it having been rusting in the backed up sludge and had to strip the wire and reconnect it.

Alright - bumping an old thread but I think I have some helpful information to add. Firstly, here is a link to the service manual: http://www.espagle.org/doc/45928217/wm3431xx-service-manual-lg/ .

Second, I must warn you that I am doing this from memory (even through it was this morning).

General note: Take not of what screw goes where. There are 5-6 variations.

Steps:

1. Unplug the machine, unscrew the hot water, the colder water, and pull out the drain line from the wall (mine was just hanging into a waste water line, I assume some people have threaded connections).

2. Place the machine in a location that gives plenty of room to access the top as well as the back.

3. Remove the two screws which attach the top panel to the back. Slide the top panel towards the back of the machine, remove and place aside.

4. Remove the screws holding on the top cover/heat shield (this part should have a black tar like cover on top to protect from excessive heat). Lift the top cover and place aside.

5. Remove the screws holding on the back cover. Slide the back cover up slightly and pull the bottom of the cover out. This should free the bottom. Slide the panel downward to free the top. Place aside.

Take a look at the top of the machine, there is a large black duct that says something along the lines of "caution hot." Follow that heating duct towards the back of the machine to the circular cover (this is the fan). Now follow that downward to see the condenser duct (previously described as creamish white). This is part we are trying to detach from the rest of the machine and clean out.

In order to remove this duct from the machine we need to disconnect the heating duct/fan assembly, the small black sensor on the front of the condenser duct, the black tube connected to the condenser duct, and all of the screws holding on the duct itself.

6. Remove the screws holding the heating duct to the drum and the condenser duct. If I remember correctly, there are two at the front of the machine, three along the heating duct, and four by the condenser duct. Make sure you are removing the screws holding the entire duct to the drum/condenser and not the screws that split the duct itself.

7. Once the screws are all out, lift the heating duct/fan assembly slightly and tilt it away from the condenser duct. Place the heating duct/fan assembly on the machine with all of the remaining connections untouched.

8. On the top, front of the condenser tube there is a metal sensor attached to a rubber gromet. This needs to be removed from the condenser tube. It takes a bit of work, but it didn't seem like you could easily damage the gromet if you use a screw driver to pry it out.

9. Unattach the black tube at the top of the condenser tube by squeezing the metal clamp and pulling it away from the condenser tube. My washer had a bit of sealant/glue at the connection. I removed this with a set of pliers in order to disconnect the black tube.

10. Remove the screws holding the condenser tube to the drum. There is one on top and numerous on the back. There is one screw that is not accessible by a screw driver and requires a 5/16 socket and ratchet to remove (or some sort of angled screw driver...)

11. This should free the condenser tube. Remove it and clean out all of the lint. I used a coat hanger as well as the garden hose to get out all the lint. Also take this time to clean out any dirt you can access in the fan and the heating duct.

12. Follow these steps backwards to reattach everything, I hope you remember which screw goes where.

Its very likely I will not check back here, so good luck. I hope there arent too many mistakes in my write up!