I own a Kenmore 90 series washer and the washer will not spin in the spin cycle. The washer fills and drains as it should; however all clothes at end of cycle are full of water from not being spun. I read some of the other trouble shooting solutions and checked that my lid clicks when it closes and it does so you can rule that out from the get go. Any other suggestions?? I don't even know how to remove the panel on the back of the washer to look at anything else. Thanks!
The easy answer you've been looking seeking. Its a drive coupler: Cut and paste here http://www.repairclinic.com/0100_23.asp I used to work for SearsParts Direct and the most requested part for these top loading washers by Kenmore, which the majority are actually whirlpools, was a drive coupler. The main reason it is not spinning is because the drive coupler is probably worn out--a part that come in a set: two white plastic wheels with pegs that interlock with each other through a black rubber middle part. This is the part you need. It's a relitively inexpensive part and repair can be done by anyone handy. Call a discount part center and ask for a drive coupler for a whirlpool/kenmore washer and they will know what your talking about without hesitation.
I have the same washer.. my basket or whatever it's called.. spun freely by hand. I just got a phillips screwdriver, removed the switch that detects when the lid is shut. I kept one hand on the switch when removing the screws so the switch wouldn't fall outta reach. I then pulled the switch out thru the space between the basket and lid (pulled out the slack in other words) then got a 14 guage blue butt connector spliced it together and placed the wires back in where theY go outta the way.. BAM... fixed it.. LESS THAN 10 MINUTES.. NOTE: DISCONNECT POWER OR YOU WILL SHOCK YOURSELF OR COULD DIE.. THERE IS WATER IN THE BASKET THAT HASN'T DRAINED BTW. OTHER THING IS, BY BYPASSING THE SAFETY SWITCH, YOU HAVE NO MORE SAFETY.. THAT COULD CAUSE INJURY TOO.. IN CLOSING.. IF YOU HAVE COMMON SINCE YOU COULD DO IT THIS WAY.. OR YOU COULD GO BUY A NEW SWITCH AND DO IT THE "RIGHT" WAY..OR PAY SOMEBODY.. WHATEVER THOUGH.. MINE WORKS :) TOO BAD FOR MY WIFE... SHE THOUGHT SHE WAS GETTING A NEW WASHER...
Does the tub spin at all? Will it start to spin if you manually turn it by hand first? Does the washer agitate? If you've already ruled out the lid switch, the second most likely cause would be your gear case (transmission) and/or basket drive. Now...before you venture down that road, double check that lid switch one more time. Sometimes they will still click but won't make proper contact. With the timer still engaged, open the lid and push the lid switch down all the way with a small screwdriver. If you cannot get the washer to spin. Or, if it spins too slow, then you have a transmission problem. You can do a quick visual check by removing the machine case. First, UNPLUG the washer and follow these steps: 1. You simply remove the console by placing a putty knife under the front corners and push in while lifting up. This releases the retaining clips holding the console on. If the end caps are removable on the console, then you will have a screw at each corner to remove. Carefully flip the console back to its resting position over the machine back panel. Be careful not to break the small plastic hinges that hold the console in place. 2. With the console removed, look for two brass-colored clips. Take a flat blade screwdriver and place it in the slot of the clip in the hole on the washer top. Push the screwdriver towards the back of the washer and the clip will release. 3. With the clips released, open the washer lid and place one hand under the rim opening at the front of the tub opening (do not grab the wash tub). Place your foot at the bottom of the washer in the front and gently pull the casing from the back first. The entire machine case will lift off the frame. It is light enough that one person should be able to move it. 4. With the case removed, look for any signs of an amber colored oil under the washer. If it is present, you definitely have a gear case problem and it needs replaced. Now, if you do not see any oil leakage, the gear case could STILL be bad. I mention this visual, because this is usually an early symptom before the gear case goes bad. Some will leak, some will just stop working. I would suspect that if your tub is NOT spinning at all, the gear case is the cause. If the tub is spinning SLOW, you may have a combination of a gear case and basket drive. When placing the machine casing back on the washer, follow these steps: 1. With the lid open and looking down through the washer opening, place the front lip of the casing UNDER the washer frame and slowly set the case down from front to back. Make sure the small cleats on the frame are inserted into the slots on the washer case side panel lip or it will not seat properly on the frame. 2. With the frame seated on the frame properly, reach behind the washer from both sides and pull the back panel to meet the washer case and seat it correctly. 3. Place the brass colored clips into the slots on the washer back panel first and them push them down into the opening on the washer top. You may have to use some force. The clips will snap in if you have everything seated correctly. 4. Reinstalling the console should be self-explanatory. I hope you find some of this advice informative. And, I hope you don't have to go through the steps necessary to replace a bad gear case. If you do come to the conclusion that the gear case is bad, however, and would like to try to replace it yourself, I can give you advice on how to do it and the parts required to perform the job. Let me know.
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