My koiler car amp shuts off and gets hot. when i shut off the car stereo and turn it on, it kicks back on and works till it gets out again.

Do you have an amp or it's this running through an amp? If so sounds like it's a thermal issue to hot. If it's not hot check to see if it's got a good connection on power or ground. I've seen this happen where the radio turns it on for a couple seconds the sees an issue and shuts back down. With or with out amp, could also be blown speaker shorting out. Can unplug one speaker at a time till radio stays on or check each speaker with an ohm meter, should read 4ohm with no current going into speaker. I've seen that happen also with bad RCA cables going to amp. If is an amp you can check the light on the amp to see if going on and off, unhook Rca cables then check to see if amp stays on. Hope that helps

check the connection of power connection and the remote connection tone amp,you can check also you inside by using your hand ,turn on the amp and wiggle it the power connection parts.

My best guess is that your over loading the amp. Check and see if the amp is hot when it cuts off. Most amps have a "safety" cutoff that will shut it off if it get to hot

could be thermo electronic component normally mounted on the inside of the unit...its to protect against over heating

does it keep cutting in and out?
if so i think you have your polarities crossed
make sure you have negative to negative positive to positive

How long will the bass play before the amp kicks into protection mode and how loud are you listening to it? I've noticed with my amps that if they don't have enough air flow they will get hot and kick into protection mode. They will also kick into protection mode if you are running it at more than it can handle. Check your adjustments on both your amp and the head unit. Make sure you are not running more bass than the amp can handle.

It's probably overheating and the thermal protection circuit is shutting the amp down.

If it has a fan, the fan may be defective. If I'm not mistaken, the fan only runs at high temperatures so if you check it, you need to do so when the bottom of the amp is almost too hot to touch.

If the fan is working properly, you may be driving too low of an ohm load.

If it's neither of those, get the amp up off of the mounting surface and use an external fan to move air across the bottom surface of the amp.

One might think so, YES the compressor is running till it gets hot and tripps on hi-temperature, and after it cools down awhile, the switch willcautomatically reset itself and back- & forth......Thank-you-very much!

IS IT A GOOD QUALITY CD OR A HOMEMADE ONE ? SOMETIMES THE HOME MADE DISC DO NOT GET FINALIZED AND THEN THEY WILL ONLY WORK ON THE COMPUTER THAT MADE THE DISC



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I had this same exact problem when my last older Kenwood Marine stereo cooked itself while I had it up loud for a few weekends on the lake. (smelled like it had burned inside). I went out and bought a new Kenwood KMR-550u stereo deck. (I do not have an additional amp). I hooked it up to the exact connections where my older Kenwood stereo unit had been hooked up, as I never had a problem with this for the past three years until it failed after smelling of burning elelectrical. I had chalked the problem up to heavy rain we had one day. Every time I turned up the volume, sometimes up to 27 out of 35 possible, or 29, or 32, the stereo would suddenly shut off as if I had turned it off. After a few seconds the stereo would come back on, but unless I was quick enough to turn down the volume it would do it again right away. Of course on a boat, we were beached in a cove and the engine was not running when I encountered this. I searched the internet finding hundreds of similar complaints and several dozen theories of all types, but only a couple that pointed me towards the power (voltage) idea as the problem. I put a volt meter on the positive & negative wires powering the stereo. I watched as I gradually turned up the volume, the voltage on the power wire gradually decreased from 12.5 volts, down into the 11 range, and as it hit 10.9 or 10.8 volts it shut off typically around a volume of 32. The red power wire in my boat that never seemed to have an issue with my old stereo until it fried was determined to actually be inadequate for the power flow for the new Kenwood, and probably was the culprit of my failed older unit. I offer this sound advice: Run a new pair of positive & negative wires directly from the battery (with an appropriate fuse of course (the deck has a 10 amp fuse in it's back so I would use that at the battery) to the stereo. Check the voltage as you turn the volume up into the high 20's and low 30's to ensure you are still getting voltage in the mid to high 11-12 volt range. The stereo is designed to require a minimum of 10.8 volts to operate, and when it drops below that it protects itself and shuts down.