Hose at the rear has started to drip at the connection point. no matter what I do, tightening included, even tried a new hose, still leaking. Sometimes dramatically.
(Note: I am only using hot water attachment on the upper inlet valve).
Could there be a problem internally that I am unable to fathom?
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Before you go replacing a radiator, you need to check out why the quick overheat. Most likely due to low coolant which indicates a leak. Yes the core could be leaking...but it is not the most likely problem. If there is coolant dripping from the lower hose, it could be a simple matter of the lower hose clamp just needing to be tightened. They do work loose occasionally. Check the clamp, and tighten if needed. With the vehicle cold, check and refill the coolant in the both the radiator and the reservoir bottle. Run the vehicle to normal temperature and observe all connection points. IF no leaks are seen, use the vehicle normally and monitor coolant level for a week or so to ensure that you have solved the problem. If you are still loosing coolant, but have no visible signs of loss (drips or puddles under vehicle), then the problem could be a worn out water pump. They often tend to leak only when running and the lost coolant often evaporates on the engine block out of sight.
There are no coolant lines etc running on the lower part of the engine.Usually water will leak from above and run down finally dripping from under the engine. Coolant will not leak from the "engine" it leaks from a hose or thermostat housing.
Start from the top and work down. Check each hose by feeling with your hand. Look for a wet spot. wipe the hose with a cloth to clean if necessary. If you think you found it dry the area and check again.Sometimes you need to move the hose around to open a small tear and expose the leak source.
Tip: park overnight on a piece of cardboard. Look for the spot where it is dripping. This will give you and idea where to look.
If a hose leaks around a clamp tighten the clamp. Screw clamps can be tightened. The spring style can not. Once moved the spring type often leak. If moved try moving to the exact position it was in using the impression left on the pipe. I could suggest though that your replace it with a screw type clamp.
If you find a torn hose you may be able to disconnect, cut the end and reattach. If too short replace.
Check where each hose connects to the engine. This will be the thermostat housing and the heater supply line. If a housing is leaking try gently tightening (careful they crack). Or replace the gasket. Use a new gasket do not just use gasket sealer.
Check at the radiator. There will be a heat sensor there. They screw into the radiator. If it is leaking try to gently tighten (take care you can break it). If that does not work remove the sensor and put Teflon tape on the threads. That should do it.
If you don't see a leak at all. Start the engine and run. This will build pressure in the cooling system. Look for leak using the same process. Careful as the engine is hot.
Sounds like either the hose has a hole in it, it isn't seated right, or it isn't tightened sufficiently at the connection. Most often, leaks by the connection are actually leaks at the connection and the water is running down the pipe a bit. Try turning the water off in the main system or at any valve before the connection and then tightening the connection another quarter turn. While directions caution us to be careful not to tighten too tightly, we must insure that our connections are sufficiently tight so that the water doesn't leak out. You may also take the connection off and make sure you have a layer of plumber's silicon tape on the threads and then put the connection back together, making sure it is tight enough so that there are no leaks. Less likely, but possibly, the hose may have a small hole in it. In this case, the water is likely spurting out of the hole rather than slowly leaking down the pipe.
Radiator hoses usually only need changing if they leak or are very perished. An '05 should have reasonable condition hoses. If they do need changing or you are putting some crazy colored hoses on: 1. Take off your radiator cap.2. You may need to take the fuel tank off in some cases.3. Get a 2 litre container with a large opening or funnel ready to catch your coolant.
4. Undo the coolant drain plug/bolt on the water pump and use the container to catch the flowing coolant, it may squirt a little. 5. Match your new hose to the same section on the bike and make note of the way it is installed. 6. Loosen the hose clamps on the section you are working on and push them back along the hose a little way. 7. Gently twist and pull the hose away from it's connection points, if it's till tight loosen the hose clamp more. 8. Repeat 5,6,7 for any other hoses in the cooling system. 9. Transfer the hose clamps onto your new coolant hoses. 10. Install new hoses in the same position as your original hoses. 11. Make sure the hoses are fully pushed onto the connection plumbing. 12. Tighten hose clamps with a screwdriver, firm but not super tight or the hose clamp could become damaged. 13. Re-install your coolant drain bolt ensuring the copper washer is intact if used. Don't over tighten an alloy thread if applicable. 14. Fill your cooling system with anti boil / anti corrosion coolant, gently rock the bike from side to side to allow air to escape, top up as required. 15. Install your radiator cap. 16. Start the bike and check for coolant leaks or drips. 17. Re-tighten hose clamps if required. 18. Ride the bike around for a short time and check again. 19. Check the coolant level in the radiator, top up if required. 20. Ride Hard! (Always check the coolant level at regular intervals as a lack of coolant can lead to engine failure). General advice only.
Is the coolant clean that leaks out? Have you put a newspaper under the car to try and isolate the leaks location by the drip stains? Likely spots are the engine water pump and hose connection points at have worked loose. If the leak seems to come from the rear of the engine it may be a leaking heater core, in that case you should have a kind of sweet smell (the smell of vaporized coolant) in the cabin when the heater is on.
Ha, you tried to fool me with the bit about a 3.5 L motor--I could find that one...here is the complete procedure from AutoZone.com:
Clean the gasket mounting surfaces. Be sure to inspect the manifold for warpage and/or cracks. If necessary, replace it.
Position the gaskets on the cylinder head with the port blocking plates to the rear and the This Side Up stamps facing upward. Then apply a 3 / 16 in. (5mm) bead of RTV sealant on the front and rear of the engine block at the block-to-manifold mating surface. Extend the bead 1 / 2 in. (13mm) up each cylinder head to seal and retain the gaskets.
Install the lower intake manifold. Tighten the bolts in sequence and in 3 steps, as follows:
Step 1: 26 inch lbs. (3 Nm).
Step 2: 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
Step 3: 133 inch. lbs. (15 Nm).
Install or connect the following:
Power steering pumpAlternator bracket bolt near the thermostat housingWiring harness to the lower manifold components, including the injector, EGR valve and ECT sensorAir conditioning compressor bracket-to-the lower intake manifold pencil braces
Install transmission oil dipstick tube, if necessary.
Fuel supply and return lines to the rear of the lower intake
Temporarily reattach the negative battery cable, then pressurize the fuel system (by cycling the ignition without starting the engine) and check for leaks.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Install or connect the following:
Heater hose to the lower intakeUpper radiator hose to the thermostat housingDistributor assembly and engage the wiringIgnition coilConnect vacuum hoses to the upper and lower intake manifold.New upper intake manifold gasket, making sure the green sealing lines are facing upwardUpper intake manifoldManifold retainers. Tighten them to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm) using two passes.Purge solenoid and bracketBrake booster vacuum hose at the upper intake manifoldPCV hose to the rear of the upper intake manifoldVacuum hoses to both the front and rear of the manifold assemblyThrottle bodyThrottle linkage to the upper intakeWiring to the upper intake components including the TP sensor, IAC motor, MAP sensor and the fuel meterEngine coverAir intake assembly
Red fluid it auto matic transmission fluid. The black cover is the bottom of the transmission where the transmission filter is. Most of the time.. unless you recently had the transmission filter changed is inthe hose area where the hoses fromthe radiator connect to the transmission.
It is still quite possible for your transmission pan gasket to be leaking. Most of the time people think that by just tightening up the bolts that they fix the leak when in fact the over torque the boltrs and it leaks even more. If the transmission pan gasket is leaking buy a new gasket making sure the bolts are tightened per the manufactures torques.
Check your hose connections in the back for tightness and sealing (there should be some rubber seals inside the screw-in connections) and if tight and not leaking, you might have a loose clamp inside the unit, or a leaking/damaged hose, or even a defective/leaking pump. If it is brand new and returnable I'd return it for a new one rather than try to fix it...