Wf860p test mode faulty module

First of all that board supports DDR400 (PC3200) so why did you get PC2100 chips?

Anyway, do a bare minimum test (only MB, CPU, RAM & PSU connected, nothing else). Remove all the RAM and test each one individually. Properly insert one into the first RAM slot and test by booting until the POST RAM test is finished. Shutdown and repeat the test with the same RAM module in slot 2 and keep repeating this for every slot. If successful in every slot, mark that module as working then try the other RAM modules using the same procedure.

• As soon as you find one that doesn't fully pass the POST test, mark it as faulty.
• If some pass in one slot but not another, then mark it as faulty.
• If they all fail to pass on a specific slot, mark that slot as faulty and don't use it (you can use electrical tape to cover the slot for future reference).

Once you've finished the bare minimum test, try 2 RAM modules this time (use only the modules that you found to be working from the above tests). Mix and match the RAM modules & then try 3 together and even 4 (if you found all of them to be working fine).

Finally once you're satisfied you've found the modules that work properly, boot with memtest and test the RAM for any problems. If they all seem to work fine individually, boot them individually and test with memtest to determine which ones are actually faulty.

Instructions1 Use a wiring diagram for the year model of your vehicle. Locate the terminals running into and out of the ignition module. Placement of the module varies from model to model so check the appropiate service manual of your vehicle for the exact location.
2 Turn the ignition on and use your DVOM to check for voltage to the ignition module and the positive terminal of the ignition coil. Place the negative lead of your DVOM to a solid ground and use the positive lead to probe the wires running to the ignition module and to the ignition coil.
3 If your DVOM shows that voltage is present at both locations, remove the DVOM leads and set the meter aside. Connect the ground lead from the 12-volt test light to the negative terminal on the ignition coil. Have your partner crank the engine over several times. Your test light should flicker on and off. If so, your module is working properly and no further testing is necessary.
4 If your test light does not flicker on and off, visually inspect the wires running into and out of the ignition module. Look for burn marks, melted wire insulation and breaks in the wires. Use your wire splicing tool to remove the bad area in the wire and use your wire connectors and splicing tool to repair the faulty wires.
5 Use your DVOM to check for an open circuit condition in the primary coil winding. Touch the negative probe to the negative terminal on the ignition coil, touch the positive lead to the positive terminal. Set the meter to read ohms. If the reading shows infinite ohms, your ignition module is faulty and should be replaced. Follow the service manual instructions for replacing your ignition coil.
6 Look to see if the DVOM test shows low to no ohms; if so, then you have a faulty ignition module that will have to be replaced. Follow the service manual instructions for your vehicle to replace the module.
Thanks

should not take 12 hrs to burn
does it burn data cd/dvd or audio cd/dvd's ?
you might have to burn it as an ISO image
this might be because you have not selected the option to burn a dvd movie you might have selected another option ie:burn data audio or your burning software does not support movie dvd burning
there are plenty of free burning software programs on the internet

http://www.majorgeeks.com/BurnAware_Free_d5839.html

BurnAware Free is one of the most popular free CD, DVD, Blu-ray Disc burning software available for Windows.
Using this program you can easily create and burn Audio and MP3 CD, Data and DVD-Video disc, ISO and Cue Image,
erase or format rewritable disc, copy your CD or DVD to ISO image.
make sure that the cd-dvd burner is getting enough power test all leads that are attached to the dvd drive including electrical extensions and make sure they have a secure connection or just replace them there might be bad/faulty or

if this does not fix the problem it might be a registry problem
Close all open programs

Click on Start, Run, and type regedit and press Enter
Click on the plus signs (+) next to the following folders

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE

SYSTEM

CurrentControlSet

Control

Class

{4D36E965-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}

This folder is the DVD/CD-ROM Drive Class Description in the registry. Look for any of the following names in the right hand column.

Upper Filters

Lower Filters

Upper Filters.bak

Lower Filters.bak
If any of the above keys shown in step 4 are listed, right-click on them and choose Delete

After deleting the keys, close the registry editor
Reboot your computer
Open My Computer and check to see if your CD or DVD drives have returned. You may also want to open Device Manager and verify that the yellow exclamation and error code on the CD or DVD drive is gone.


hope this helps you

Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty . Please check speakers prior to connecting another amp. .A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you

You don't specify, but I suspect this is a Whirlpool built refrigerator. If so, the module is likely faulty. Remove the plastic cover from the icemaker to expose the white gear. Look closely at it for any discoloration or burn marks. If you see anything, you will need to replace the module.

Kelly

i would first look at the main harness going to your ecm(engine control module) there is a 60 pin connector the bolt that hold the connector is a 10 mm remove the bolt and remove the connector it should be clean with no burn marks to show signs of a short. if there are burn marks not only must you replace the connector but you fried the ecm as well and that needs replacing. also check your relays. often times even though you don't blow a fuse the relay still may short out. this is a good place to start. let me know the results

f8 is shown when the heater circuit is on with no water in.. it doesnt do it when you unplug the pressure switch because your disabling the heat protect circuit

THE BOARD IS PROBABLY FAULTY

F08 indicates pressure switch stuck on full.



Unplug the appliance from the wall socket.

Take the top off the machine.

Locate the pressure switch, you can identify it by the thin tube attached to it.

Take the tube off, blow down this tube as hard as you can to shift any blockage or restriction in the pressure chamber. Give the pressure switch a couple of good taps with the screwdriver handle.

Refit the tube and try the machine again.

If still doing it, unplug again and follow the tube down.

This end will be attached to the pressure chamber.

Take this chamber off and thoroughly clean it out, clean out the port into the tub too.

Reassemble and try again.



If after this it's still faulty you'll need to start replacing parts.

I'd suggest trying a new pressure switch first.

Failing this, if all of the above fails to resolve the problem you're possibly looking at a faulty main control board.



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motor triac short circuit check motor and module connections, if o.k poss motor fault

as the guest above says do not remove the board there is no fault on it 4 sure good luck

I have had this problem it is caused by accidentally pressing both the on and start button together. It puts the machine into demo mode. You need to press both the buttons together again for about 30 seconds. If it doesn't work first time switch the machine off and do it again. Sometimes you have to do this many times before it works but eventually it does work.
Very frustrating.
I found the cause was either leaning on the front of the machine or resting a broom which when you pick it up accidentally presses the two buttons.