We have a TD-95-38 beverage cooler that is not draining into the drip pan. it doesn't look like there is a drain in the cooler bottom. Why is my drip pan dry but my entire cooler soaking wet?

SOURCE: True TD-36-12-S Bottle Cooler

1st check the outter coil and make sure you can shine a flash light through the coil. If not blow out with compressed air and look again. A dirty coil may be your problem.

2nd check the inside coil it may be blocked with frost - ice
3rd the fan both in and out have to be running.
4th check the door seals

you could be low on refrigerant or have a bad thermostat but eliminate all else before going to these 2 problems.

SOURCE: freezing up TD-64-24 beverage cooler

Some of this TRUE don't have service valves, but you can put a tapping valve (A1) in the appendix (small piece of pipe comming out of the compresor and seal on the other end).To check the pressure you need to know what type of refrigerant is in the system .If is 134a the low side should be about 24psi and the high around 160 it could vary depends how hot is inside the place and the fridge but not much more than 200.If you working with R22 pressures be around 60 low and 250 high side.

SOURCE: Iceburg is forming under drain pan in freezer section.

If it takes 3 months for this ice to form, it is most likely not a drain problem.
Let's look at a few things.
The evap could have 2 heaters that are used to clear the frost/ice. One imbedded in the coil and one in the drain pan. The one in the drain pan can be malfunctioning. (Burned out, burnt wire, etc.)
Another issue could be, when it comes out of defrost, the fan delay is not working so it starts as soon as defrost is terminated. This causes the water droplets on the evap to be blown out and onto the back wall or drip down and find it's way to the drain pan bottom.
Over stocking the unit can also cause this. Don't do anything that can restrict air flow around the evap.
Also, be sure the door closes and seals completely around all sides. Most all of these units have some way for the door to close on it's own. Test by opening the door about 45 degrees and then let go. It should close and seal.
Another thing to check is to see if there are the correct amount of defrost cycles. Should be 4 at 30 minutes each as a general rule of thumb. You may have not have enough or possibly the defrost cycles are being terminated too early by the termination control.
You can check to be sure that the end of the drain line is not being blocked by improper installation. You can have this issue and still be able to blow air through. Don't let that fool you. Be sure it lays sideways in the drain pan, if it has one. If not, it may drain freely into a floor drain. If so, check to see if air is being sucked into the drain line while the unit is running. It could **** moisture into the evap area and cause icing.

There a several things to look into. Hope this helps and good luck.
Let me know how you come out on this.