Question about Mitsubishi WS-65807 65" Rear Projection Television
I'm crushed. Just bought this TV second hand but lightly used. It worked great when I checked it out in the sellers home. Had to move it home by truck; tried to be gentle but there was some jostling getting it in. Turned set on and convergence was off. I went into the convergence adjustment menu and found that all convergence control appears to work except red horizontal. Blue vert and horiz are fine, and red vert is adjustable as well. So, given the limited nature of the adjustment problem, any chance a service mode setting would help, or is it likely the IC chip is bad and needs replacing? Or could this also be a solder problem caused by the move? Thanks for your help!!
Posted by hotspur77 on
I have about 40 thin vertical lines over the picture from top to bottom. I have been an electronics service tech for over 40 years but retired for ten Have adequit equipment. Can you point me in the right direction. External radiation has been eliminated.
Posted on Mar 10, 2008
Troylove, Thanks. I hate to sound so basic, but how do I get to the option menu and enter those numeric codes? When I use the remote and select menu, I get a set of options that only respond by moving the adjust key. And if I press the number pad it does nothing. If I do this outside the menu, it acts like I'm trying to change the TV channel or antenna mode. I must be missing the trick or magic combination for getting into the correct menus. Thx.
Posted on Sep 14, 2007
Do not try to adjust anything yet!! Adjustments do not get out of alighnment all of a suddenly. The convergence adjustments are there to do minor aging alighnments. I would first check for bad solder connections on the convergence IC's first.
Posted on Sep 09, 2007
It certainly does sound lke all convergence. If the tech does just resolder the board, the cost should run you about 150 bucks or so. If the IC's indeed do have to be replaced, you should be looking at , at least 300 to 400 bucks.
Sure, it is easy to pull out the board, but if you are going that far why not simply get the right IC's from mcmelectronics and replace them while the board is out.
There should be not much calibration if you buy the right convergence IC's and not the cheapo Types. You can tell the cheap ones because they do not have the word Sanyo label on them. Those are aftermarket types of IC's or maybe even the factory rejects. If they are marked with the letter T after the number, they are the cheap china made parts, But they have started to leave off the T because of the rep. and recently we have seen a large influx of inexpensive electronics as well as all goods that are second rate coming from China. Kinda like Back in the 60s when everything labeled Made In Japan was cheapo stuff, but this china stuff is even worse!
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Thanks Techman. Hopefully I'm on the right path and will probably bring a pro in to help with solder etc. I would like to be well prepared, so I'll ask a couple more questions about some other things have now happened: first, the bowtie effect has appeared a twice on powerup (but not every time) then disappeared after the set warmed up. Also, when credits were rolling on the screen during a movie I could see image shift with the words moving slightly (but noticeably) side to side. Is it possible that during the move the projectors (or mirrors perhaps) were jolted out of place, or does all this still spell convergence issues from solder, etc.
Maybe I'm looking at a complete convergence and other picture related calibration...if so what should I expect in terms of cost. 100, 200? More? Thanks for your help!
Thanks again. One - maybe last - question. I work in a technical environment with an electrical engineering group and could likely get the board resoldered here. Is the culprit simple enough to pull without causing issues? I'd prefer to try that and go to the IC boards with a repair tech only if needed. What do you think? Thanks.
Sounds great if it's not too big an undertaking. Definitely would like to save the $$. Would I need a manual for the IC replacement, or is there a basic procedure I could follow? And once done, are there any other adjustments to bring everything to proper calibration? Thx.
Thanks much Techman! Now I'm off to track down the right OEM part and get this thing fixed...