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Nikon d40x exposure problem

On auto all my images are over exposed, with light area too hot and dark areas weak. On manual all images are totally dark, however the details are all there and can be pushed with P.S. to regain most of the color and the detail, bu it appears forced and noisy. I appreciate any guidance. Also noticed that the shutter release button is slow in responding and has not responded at all at times.

Posted by Fredi White on


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John Abbott

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I assume that this is a film camera that has light meter.
It could be that the camera is set to a different film sensitivity than the actual film.
For example, the film is 400 ASA but the camera is set to 100 ASA.
The sensitivity rating of the film is written on the film box and on the film cartridge. Make sure you set the film ASA number on the camera too.

Posted on Oct 23, 2013


5 Related Answers


  • 216 Answers

SOURCE: error message

Your camera probably doesn't have a problem. Mount a lens on it and turn the aperture to the smallest opening = F/22 or F/32 then try it.

Posted on Nov 19, 2006


zdenek vajdak

  • 206 Answers

SOURCE: Err message

If the error message is on the left hand side of your LCD monitor then your shutter is not coming on line and it might be the 'reset' switch in the back cover locking mechanism that needs replacing. If the error message is on the right hand side of the monitor then this is because the F - stop on your lens is not set to highest setting ( 16 or 22 ) . Set your lens to highest setting and check again to see if error ( FEE ? ) disapears.

Posted on Sep 23, 2007


  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: XR 7 locked up

Just read on another forum where the film rewind button can get stuck (little button on the bottom of the camera, used to initiate rewind), and removing the camera bottom allows access to unjam it.  I'll try... takes a small philips eyeglass screwdriver and young eyes (or my reading glasses...) 

Posted on Sep 18, 2008


frank thomas wilson

  • 10319 Answers

SOURCE: nikon fm10 cannot get shuuter release button to

The film lever is also a switch. If you had advanced the film lever, **** it outward a little. You will feel the detent click somewhat when doing so. Leave the lever outward and see if the shutter will work. The detent is for appling an closed circuit for the light meter. When the lever is fully pushed back in it shuts the power to the meter on off to conserve battery power

Posted on Jan 01, 2010


  • 3006 Answers

SOURCE: Shutter Release Button Not Releasing Properly

You have the first signs of a very common problem on all AE-1's and similar AV-1's. Left unattended your camera will soon seize up with the shutter and rewind buttons, plus the advance lever all stuck. The trick to maximise chances of a successful repair is to get it fixed before it totally seizes.

Basically the camera needs a thorough strip down and overhaul. They're well built but fairly mechanically simple so in practice it usually just means that the camera is stripped down, parts cleaned of all dried-out gummed-up lubricants, and then reassembled and re-lubricated. New parts are near impossible to find, but there were millions of these models made so there are plenty of spares donors for most parts. DIY servicing IS possible, but you need to have the right tools, materials and instruction books and the investment for a one-off repair is simply not worth it. You also need to be confident in tackling repairs to precision machinery which may not have been disturbed for thirty years.

Just contact a camera repairer to ask what a CLA service (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust) will cost. In hard economic terms, it makes no sense, but a freshly CLA'd AE-1 in regular amateur use should be good for many more years of reliable service so you can get your money's worth. In the UK the service will normally cost between £60-£100 and in the USA it's a bit cheaper. Demand for camera servicing outstrips availability worldwide as so many repairers have gone out of business, so a common turnaround time is up to six weeks worldwide unless you pay a lot extra for express turnaround as used by professionals who depend on their cameras to make a living.

It's worth getting the camera light seals and buffers replaced at the same time: originals were made of a chemically unstable foam which by now will have turned into a corrosive sticky goo. Higher cost CLA's will include it as standard, lower cost ones will try to charge extra, but I have found that sometimes the shop may do it for free if you point out that you can take the camera elsewhere.

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Posted on Aug 02, 2010

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My camera over exposes everything - the shutter stays open for about 2-3 seconds. except when on video settings. No matter what I set it at nothing changes.

Looking down at the top of the camera, check the left knob. This is the exposure compensation dial. Adjust it to "0". If set one way or the other, it will make pictures darker or lighter. This comes in handy when the image has a lot of dark or bright areas - moving this dial will allow you to make the bright areas darker or the dark areas lighter when you camera's light meter is setting the exposure in a way you do not want.

If still having trouble, make sure the right knob (Mode) is not set to M or Manual. Switch it to Program or Auto and try taking a picture again. You might even want to set the outer knob (ISO) to AUTO as well to reduce the chances of an incorrect setting. If it now works as expected, but you want to shoot in M, you will need to learn how to use the meter to select the correct combination of aperture (f stop), shutter speed and ISO to obtain the desired results.

Oh, experiment with the exposure compensation knob when you have a chance, learn how it can help correct overly dark / bright scenes. Good luck!

I have a nikon d40 that works great ewxcept for one day i was taking pictures and all of a sudden the camera would not take a picture in auto or manual and theres a warning sign flashing "r11" where the...

Slow down your shooting. The "R11" indicates that you can take 11 more images before the buffer is full and the camera will stop functioning until the images are moved to the memory card.
Select a smaller file size. Nikon cameras allow you to select from several sizes of JPEG as well as a RAW and a RAW + JPEG file. These files vary in size. If you select a smaller file size, the buffer will take longer to fill, allowing you to shoot longerTurn off long exposure noise reduction. This function causes the camera to expose twice for every image, and this can fill up the buffer quickly as those images are processed and written to the card.
  • Step 3 Select a smaller file size. Nikon cameras allow you to select from several sizes of JPEG as well as a RAW and a RAW + JPEG file. These files vary in size. If you select a smaller file size, the buffer will take longer to fill, allowing you to shoot longer.
  • Step 4 Turn off long exposure noise reduction. This function causes the camera to expose twice for every image, and this can fill up the buffer quickly as those images are processed and written to the card.

  • Read more: How to Fix the R11 Error on a Nikon D40x Digital Camera |

    Dark exposure

    Check your ISO setting...should be between 100 to 400 for normal pictures.Did you change your exposure compensation setting to something other than "0"? Is the aperture ring on the lens set to the "A" position?

    Can D40X do double exposure on a single frame

    The D40x does not have this facility.

    All you can do is to combine two exposures in your processing software; it's best controlled by combining two or more RAW images.

    When viewing photos some white areas blink black on the lcd.

    This is becasue those flashing areas are over exposed highlights. Reduce you exposure compensation a stop to capture those white areas. Increase your shutter speed or use a smaller aperture (f-stop) to let in less light. When you loose highlight detail in a digital image it is hard to reclaim back on a computer program.

    Images are coming out REALLY dark

    if this doesn't work try going to manual and setting the exposure up to +1 or +2

    Nikon D40x Metering Problem

    I assume this is no longer under warranty.
    This more likely to be a case of not pointing the camera correctly when pressing the release if for example you press the release firmly and dip the camera down in so doing it will register a shadow the camera moves up on exposure and you get a burned image.
    Try various experiments in the mode see what happens.
    As regards a repair it is likely the cost would be as much as or more then a new replacement
    Contact the Nikon customer support


    Nikon D40x Metering Problem

    the meter should turn on as soon as you half press the shutter. otherwise remove the lens and try cleaning the electrical contacts on the lens and on the camera body.use q-tips dipped in very light spirits of alcohol, make sure you dont leave any debris around the area. caution with the camera's sensor.

    LCD screen flashes

    There is nothing wrong with your camera - It is doing what it is meant to do!

    The purpose of the flashing areas is to drawn your attention to parts of the image that are over-exposed. In an ideal world nothing would ever be overexposed, but if the image has both very dark and very bright areas, the camera cannot capture both - something has to give! The flashing areas are just to let you know.

    It's covered on page 52 of the manual.


    Lec screen flashing black areas when pictures are played back

    Flashig areas show HIGH KEY or HIGHLIGHTS in image, these areas indicate where exposure compensation can be made. They also change to normal function on first magnification point.

    Check the manual on highlights also good reading in the histogram section and you will start to understand about contrast and exposure.
    Have FUN.

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