Question about Freezers
I wonder if anyone could identify the likely cause and solution of this, please. I noticed the fridge section was getting very cold and freezing items in the chiller tray at the bottom. The top half of the back of the fridge began to build up ice. I removed this and adjusted the temperature inside the fridge. I found the thermostat PCB behind this and was about to order a replacement, but then noticed that turning it down did seem to defrost and refreeze the back, and the extreme cold seemed to be from underneath, where the freezer is. Then I noticed that the fan in the top section of the freezer was always on. After defrosting to try to investigate inside the freezer and putting back on again, the temperature in the freezer plummeted to -24C no matter what setting the (fridge) thermostat was at. It's now on a socket timer 50-50 to keep it about right in the fridge for now. Is it likely to be a separate freezer section thermostat that's broken, or something else, and how can I fix it? The rear panel inside the freezer didn't seem to come off even with all screws out. I thought it might be frozen up inside, but I left it a fair while to warm up and still no luck. I don't want to yank it harder. The freezer was still frost free, but this has only just started. Bought 2011 (not sure if F-1 or F-2) Thanks.
Posted by Anonymous on
Noise sound like compressor mount are loose or rubber garment fell off that stops vibration or pump is bad internally call warranty get replaced if not a mounting problem of compressor
Posted on Mar 02, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sorry I don't have a solution for you, however would like to know if you found out what was wrong. I have an identical problem with my Beko fridge/freezer. It's only 14 months old and the freezer just wont freeze. I've turn it off for 24 hour and let it defrost completely (even had the panel off to make sure there was no ice left). I've turned it back on again and it still wont freeze. Everything seems ok, ie fan blowing, motor running etc. I really am beginning to regret buying Beko. thanks
Posted on Jul 01, 2009
I have the same
model + problem. You should not need
to defrost this model manually if it's working correctly, but the ice build up you
describe is probably due to a blocked
pipe in the auto-defrost system at the back. You need to defrost properly to
Behind the upper freezer drawer there's an aluminium tray behind a plastic grille. Every few days this tray warms up to melt any accumulated ice behind this plastic grille (full height of the freezer). A pipe should take the meltwater down to a plastic tray below (pipe + plastic tray are visible if you take the lower panel off the back). Your problem is too much ice blocking that pipe: the heater can't cope and it doesn't melt, so the ice 'cascades' down the back behind the bottom drawer.
When you manually defrost, you must ensure that this pipe is clear, otherwise the auto-defrost won't work, and you may have to defrost manually again within days.
I have found that the best way to defrost the pipe is to remove the lower back panel, disconnect the corrugated flexible plastic pipe from the stub that comes from the bottom of the freezer, + pump steam into the stub (gently) using a hand-held steamer (with tube + nozzle). You don't have to empty the freezer or move your food as the door stays closed, and no steam gets into the freezer until the pipe is unblocked. Be sure to unplug the freezer before taking the back off! [There is a fan in this area that could start up without warning]
Check how much of the pipe is blocked by gentle probing with a pencil: the aluminium tray is about 105mm above the bottom of the stub. This measurement is important…
When the pipe is clear, there may still be too much ice in the aluminium tray above (not sure how much is 'too much') if you only created a narrow 'chimney' though the block of ice (likely to get blocked again). You need to widen that chimney by melting more of the ice in the aluminium tray. I use a simple steam nozzle made from an old-fashioned Bic pen with a couple of 1mm holes drilled just below the coloured bung at the end. This directs steam onto the walls of the 'chimney' rather than upwards.
There's no point steaming the walls of the plastic 'stub' pipe, so only use the home-made nozzle when your probe reaches 105mm (i.e. when you have melted all the ice in the plastic stub tube but before your 'chimney' has broken through the block of ice in the aluminium tray). If you judge this right, you'll melt almost all of the ice under a still-frozen top surface: no steam will get into the freezer and your food will stay frozen. With a probe it will be clear when you've broken through the top surface of the ice. When you have done so, it's time to look inside the freezer to see how well you have cleared the aluminium tray.
It's perfectly feasible to get all this done in 30 minutes.
Don't forget to replace the corrugated plastic pipe + valve at the bottom. It stops humid air from going into the freezer and icing up in exactly the area we've just been defrosting.
Take a lot of care with steam jets as they can burn you badly. You should check a first aid website so you know what to do BEFORE it happens.
Some of these tips may be helpful: (1) run the freezer at -18 degrees (the 'warmest' setting) so it's not working so hard. (2) Leave a big gap (>100mm) between the back of the freezer and the wall. (3) Clean the matrix of delicate tubes to the left of the fan whilst you have the back off [a small bottle brush is ideal; remove the fan for better access]. (4) Put something between the middle of the freezer and the wall to prevent the warm air that's being blown out behind the fridge from being sucked into the air intake behind the freezer (there is a baffle built in underneath, but nothing behind. (5) Mount the fan on spacers (with longer screws) so that it's closer to the heat exchanger… this means that a larger area of grille can act as an air intake. (6) Raise the unit off the floor a little to free up the air intake path beneath the freezer.
Posted on May 10, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
POTENTIAL BEKO REFRIGERATOR FIRE RISK AND RECALL NOTICE
I would normally give a pointer to articles I have already posted this response on, but as this is such a potentially serious matter, I have posted my entire response here for you.
According to several sources I have checked, including most importantly, BEKO's own website, the MODEL numbers (not serial numbers) affected by the recall are as follows:
The fridges affected were manufactured between January 2000 and October 2006. After shipping and sitting around in shops, you can probably extend that margin to machines SOLD between 2000 and 2008. The first 2 digits of the serial numbers indicate the year of manufacture, so if your serial number doesn't start 00, 01, 02, 03, 04, 05 or 06 you don't even need to check.
If you go to the BEKO website, there is a link to check your serial number:
The site also provides a mail address and a UK Freefone number that you can call (Though I've tried the number and it keeps cutting me off!! I presume they are swamped with calls)
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