Would you please explain what happens to a P&G Pilot controller that causes the over-voltage fault? What is the actual damage and how do you reset the control to stop the flashing?

He had an infarction in his right thigh. Similar to a clot that causes a stroke if it is in the brain, a heart attack if it is in the heart and an embolism if it is in the lung, an infarction in his leg blocked the flow of blood. House explains this in the "Pilot." It is further explained in "Three Stories" that his condition went misdiagnosed for three days causing severe nerve damage and muscle death. They wanted to amputate his leg but he opposed it. The surgery that tried to restore blood circulation and removal of dead muscle tissue left his leg permanently impaired and in chronic pain

I actually have three of these and what I found was the gas valve was stuck in the open position you may need to replace it or possibly remove it and try to clean it of any residue but be very careful if you don't know exactly what your doing then you need to get a pro. Remember that your dealing with propane and it could ignite and cause serious damage to you and your home. Please be very careful and you might want to call the manufacturer and talk to them about it. Because it is a gas appliance they have a responsibility to you if anything should happen then they may be liable.

Removing the front cover or turning the line switch off and back on causes a "HARD" reset to the furnace. That means, it breaks the line or supply voltage to the furnace and causes the main control board to reset. The main reason for requiring a hard reset is a failure to fire up correctly. There are several reasons for this to happen. If or when the flame sensor detects a flame determines the whole process. When the thermostat calls for heat, the ignition controller delivers spark to the pilot assembly and the pilot gas valve opens. If the sensor detects a pilot flame, the main gas valve opens and the main burners ignite. The pilot flame can be pulled away from the sensor when the main gas opens just long enough to cause this type of failure before the main flame is sensed. The furnace will shut down thinking it is feeding in raw gas with no pilot present to ignite it. All of this happens in just a few seconds. If there is a small window in the burner cover, you can watch it fire after the reset for a clue to the cause. If there is not an inspection window with a sealed combustion chamber to watch it through, it would be best to call a good tech. as it is dangerous with such a short period to ignite while all that gas is flooding the combustion chamber. Check to see if the line from the pilot to the gas valve is tight. If possible, try to move the sensor a little closer to the pilot. If this does not work, best to call a tech. who is familiar with your furnace. Other test with an open combustion chamber are very dangerous and best left to the pros.

If the problems are as you describe, they are actually two separate problems and aren't related. If your unit was manufactured before 1999, it has a standing pilot that should stay lit all the time. If it is just droppiing out intermittently, check the J-Block circuit. That is the two wires that connect between the Hi Limit and a brass adaptor that the pilot burner thermocouple is plugged into. These are some fairly fine wires that as the unit ages become brittle. It is lilkely that they are making intermittent contact, which is causing the pilot to drop out.
If your burner is occasionally quitting when the pilot is still lit and the Heat On light is still on, you need to check the voltage from the control panel to the gas valve (assuming this is a solid state controlled unit). If the 120V is still present, the gas valve is at fault. If the 120V is not present (and the Heat On light is definitely on) then the controller is at fault. If this unit has a mechanical thermostat and timer, then the only cause for the burner dropping out while the Heat On light is on is either a bad gas valve or intermittent electrical connection between the gas valve and the thermostat.

The information below was complied by me, it explains what causes the check engine light to come on and the process of finding the cause.

When the Check Engine light (or Service Engine Soon or small picture of an engine) is turned on, the systems computer control unit (called the PCM) has sensed a fault in the electronic controls of the engine and/or the emission system. When this happens you will seldom feel the car engine run any different. There are about 200 possible system faults (the gas cap is just one of them) that turn the Check Engine light on, to know what has developed a problem you must have the system tested, this is called an OBD2 fault code test, Kragen/Oriley and Autozone parts stores (USA only) do this testing for free.

The information below was complied by me, it explains what causes the check engine light to come on and the process of finding the cause.

When the Check Engine light (or Service Engine Soon) is turned on, the systems computer control unit (called the PCM) has sensed a fault in the electronic controls of the engine and/or the emission system. When this happens you will seldom feel the car engine run any different. There are about 200 possible system faults (the gas cap is just one of them) that turn the Check Engine light on, to know what has developed a problem you must have the system tested, this is called an OBD2 fault code test, Kragen/Oriley and Autozone parts stores (USA only) do this testing for free.

Hope this makes things a little clearer, it doesn

you have to replace the cmos battery with the one your computer supports. not all batteries are cmos batteries and check out the voltage and size correctly

The thermocouple heats from the pilot and causes a mini voltage which opens the gas valve.
If bad this will not happen.

Hi, When it shuts off, do you need to push the power button once or twice to get it back on? Also, does anything else about the picture or sound change as it warms up? If once, then the controller is shutting the TV down either as a result of a (thermally induced) fault in the controller or it sensing some other problem. Monitoring the voltage on the relay coil (assuming these is one) could help determine what is happening. The controller thinks it is in charge. If twice, then the power supply is shutting down as the controller still thinks it is on and you are resetting it. A couple of possibilities here would be low voltage or high voltage regulation error (excessive high voltage is sensed and causes shutdown to prevent dangerous X-ray emission). A partially dried up main filter capacitor could also cause a shutdown but there might be other symptoms like hum bars in the picture just before this happened. Clipping a good capacitor across the suspect (with power off!) would confirm or eliminate this possibility. If it uses a pull-knob (or other hard on/off switch), then this may be like pulling the plug and would reset any abnormal condition.

OK, what has happen here is, the actual temp sensor has failed during the cleaning process, this has cause a temp that reached a dramatic high range(above 915F-930F). At these temps, there will be major damage that will weld the contacts on the door lock switch mechanism and control board.

If actual over temperature condition occurred: Look for welded relay contacts. If this happens, replace oven control (also called clock or ERC).

If no over temperature condition occurred: Look for a high resistance connection or any other cause of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit. Check sensor, sensor harness and sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. Replace sensor if found defective. Check door lock switches for faults as well(welded contacts and burned wiring harness)

Remember: Oven control (ERC) measures resistance of sensor circuit , not actual oven temperature.