Your not getting enough power to your amp and this will damage them for sure! Also your amp needs to have it's own separate wire that goes directly from your battery to the amp! If you run your power wire for your amp any other way you are asking for major electrical problems. You need to have a piece of 8 Ga. wire running from your battery all the way to your amp, also need to have a very good ground very clean and making contact fully through another piece of wire the same size as the + wire from your battery! This is so important that you do this simply because if the wire is too small it will get hot from the current draw by your amps that it will eventually melt the jacket off of the wire and short out or even catch on fire! That sound your hearing is the amps cycling through power up and shutting down since they need 12 Volts of constant voltage and a constant source of current flowing through the wire it will start to power up but once both amps draw from the wire they loose the power needed to stay working, then they do it again, etc... Rewire your amps with large enough wire or if you are using the correct wire then I would suggest checking your battery and then your alternator for problems of under voltage. Hope this helps, always make sure to place a fuse in line from you battery + terminal no further than 18" from the connection to you battery and use a fuse that is rated for the WIRE being used. Your trying to keep the wire from burning up that's all that the fuse is for. The fuses on the amps are to keep your amps from burning up they are not protecting that wire at all.
SOURCE: sony Xplod 1000 watt car amp quit working.
Almost all after market amps use 12v at very very low amperage to trigger the amp on. A temporary jumper from the battery plus terminal on the amp AFTER the battery and ground wires are attached should cause the amp to turn on. I would check to see if you have attached your speaker load correctly ESPECIALLY if you are bridging. Most of the blown amps that come into my shop are due to incorrect bridging loads from the speakers. Note that a 4ohm load bridged across both outputs of an amp will deliver a 2ohm load to each of the channels. When you parallel wire two 4ohm speakers together and then attached them to a bridged amp you will be putting a 1 (one) ohm load to each channel of the amp. Please don't make this mistake. It will fry your amp in about a month. Hope this helps. Good luck.
SOURCE: Amp Power LED Display blinks red and no sound
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. Does the voltage on either the B+ or remote pulse below ~11 volts when the LED flashes?
SOURCE: Kenwood KAC-8103D 1000 watt issues
Apparently it won't let me log in. Anyhow... I'm pushing voltage. The light is flashing, not flickering. How can I replace the transistors?
SOURCE: Pioneer 760W (Mosfet Power Supply) Amplier
If you are connecting the negative lead of the voltmeter to the chassis of the car, and then checking the voltage at the amp on the ground power input of the amplifier, then your amplifier is not grounded properly. The amp should also be grounded on the chassis of the car, so if you have 4 V DC on it, it can not possibly be grounded to the chassis. The chassis is the same potential at any point on the car.
Could it be that the 4 V DC is at the power terminals +B or positive voltage? That would not be an uncommon thing to have since the amplifier will hold some charge after it is turned off and that would be normal.
Since you have a voltage meter, you could check the current draw of the amplifier if your meter also have a setting for current or amps.
If so, connect the meter in series with the ground of the amplifier. That means to disconnect the ground wire at the amplifier, and use the meter to complete the ground connection by putting one lead of the meter on the ground wire that should be connected to the chassis of the car and the other lead to the ground terminal of the amplifier. It does not matter which lead you connect to the wire or the amplifier, that would only make your measurement i postive current or negative current, but the meter must be set up properly for current. Most of them have a diiferent jack to put the positive lead into for current. most have two different jacks. If yours does also, choose the lead with the larger amp rating. Most have 10A and 300mA, the lareger amp rating is 10A. That is 10 amps max and the 300mA means 300 milli-amps which is .3 amps max.
Do this with the amplifier turned off and the car off. If you measure any current at that point you do have a current draw with the amp off and the amp would need to be serviced by a professional. If you have no current draw there, the amp is not the source of your battery draining. This would find out for certain if the amplifier is really draining the battery.
If you have found this information help a rating of "FixYa" would be appreciated.
If you need more help just ask,
Dave
SOURCE: Amp Turns on Fine, but no Sound
have you checked the levels on the ohms? adjust them higher if need be contact me on yahoo msgr if you need more assistance
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THANK YOU SO MUCH . THIS SOLVED THE ISSUE !!!!
@hiddenfortre, I was just given the same woofer by a coworker, and wanted to get some info on that product. Like what sort of amp is need to push it or whats recommended? Please Advise if you can. Thanks
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