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Question about Tappan MGF500PBW Gas Kitchen Range

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Tappan - Model 36-3052-23

The Range has not been hooked up in several years, but has been stored properly and is in Great shape (almost new). It had limited use before it was stored. When I hooked it up, the range top burners work properly , but the oven will not ignite..... the oven igniter glows red hot , but no gas to burner. There is a separate small manual valve just below the range top that controls gas to the oven, and it is on and working properly. I tested the voltage going to the safety valve and it appears that it is around 6 volts with the oven off and jumps to 120 volts when i turn the oven to 350. Can you tell me if the safety valve needs to be replaced? Is there a troubleshooting manual you can point me to? I do not want to order the wrong parts.

Posted by llockard on

  • 6 more comments 
  • llockard Sep 07, 2007

    can these Amp readings be read by disconnecting the two leads from the safety valveand then measuring the amps across the two leads?

  • llockard Sep 21, 2007

    Well, I replaced the Igniter, and the amp reading is in the 3.6 range, but still no gas to the burner. The one other item that I would add is that I converted the range from natural gas to LP. I followed the conversion instructions (flipped the plastic part from Nat to LP) and the burners are working fine. Is there any additional adjustments to the oven that might be causing this problem.

  • llockard Sep 21, 2007

    I have test ed valve to the oven and it is on and has gas. There is only one burner in the Oven, and it is connected directly to the Gas valve. Actually the burner sits on the orfice that is connected to the gas valve. Remember , this is a Tappan - Model 36-3052-23. Four burners and a grill on top, and the oven. I have waited for a minute or more for the burnewr to light.

  • llockard Sep 26, 2007

    I never did get a reply to my last comment which was ..."I have tested valve to the oven and it is on and has gas. There is only one burner in the Oven, and it is connected directly to the Gas valve. Actually the burner sits on the orfice that is connected to the gas valve. Remember , this is a Tappan - Model 36-3052-23. Four burners and a grill on top, and the oven. I have waited for a minute or more for the burner to light." Additionally, is there a way to test the gas valve?

  • llockard Sep 26, 2007

    The Gas Safety Valve(I guess that is the right name) controls only the one burner for the Oven. The burners for the top are fed from a Pipe "Manifold" that runs across the top of the stove in front (under the top cover where the top burners are). At the left end of the Manifold there is a small manual valve that feeds the tubing that goes down to the Gas Safety valve that feeds gas to the oven burner. I have tested this small manual valve that is connected to the Manifold and it has gas coming through it. I am uncertain if there is a way to test the gas safety valve. I disconnected the wires going to it once and tested the voltage. The voltage did increase to 110 volts when I turned the oven knob to 300 and decreased to about 6 volts when the oven was off. In your last reply you indicated that I had checked the Gas safety Valve as Good, but I have no way of knowing if it is working correctly. Are we correct on terminology here?

  • llockard Sep 27, 2007

    Thanks for all of your help..... One last question. When I go to www.appliancepartspros.com from your website to find the part I find that there are three variations of my Oven model:

    The part listed under 36-3052-23-09 is AP2142097 and it lists for $70.59.

    The part listed under 36-3052-23-07 or 36-3052-23-08 is AP2149269 and it lists for $162.54.

    From the Pictures included with each part they are the same part (down to the ID numbers on the side of the valve).

    Is there a reason I should consider buying the more expensive part?

  • georgeg977 Jun 29, 2008

    The only additional comment I have is that when I turn the oven control all the way over to broil, the oven comes on.

  • Anonymous Mar 17, 2014

    just moved in. no manual for range. need to know how to get the oven to work.



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My tappan stove lights the burners it takes a while when i need to use the oven for the oven to turn on when every thing is turned of it the gas still comes out no idea ????

Posted on Jul 23, 2008


Jeff Rockwell

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I suspect you may have a bad igniter. They will still glow nice and hot, but if they are weak the gas valve will not open. This is actually a safety feature. Depending on which type you have, the glow bar igniter is supposed to draw a certain current potential before the gas valve will open. Here's the current readings for both types: Round Glow Bar: 2.7 to 3.2 amps Square Glow Bar: 3.2 to 3.7 amps I would try to to determine if the igniter is good or bad before proceeding with a gas valve replacement. Generally, the igniter is a common fail item. Let me know if this helps.

Posted on Sep 07, 2007

  • 3 more comments 
  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Sep 08, 2007

    I normally use a clip-on style amprobe on one lead to read the current going through the wire leading to the igniter. If you disconnect the leads from the safety valve, I don't know how you could possibly read any current since it would not be connected to the igniter. Now, if you can carefully pull the connector(s) back a little at the safety valve (leaving them connected, but exposing enough of the metal tab to get a meter probe in) you may be able to get a reading this way. Let me know if this helps.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Sep 21, 2007

    This may be a stupid question, but how long are you waiting for the oven to ignite? Sometimes it can take a minute or so, before the gas valve will open. Does the broil burner work? If one burner is working and the other isn't, it's probably not the safety valve since both burners are normally fed form the same source.

    Normally the LP conversion involves changing the orifice in the main regulator and the each individual orifice for the surface burners. I don't know of any other adjustments other than a manual valve on some regulators that will shut the gas off to the oven. If your regulator is equipped with such a valve try flipping it make sure it is not turned off.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Sep 26, 2007

    I haven't forgotten about you. Sorry, but it has been hard to determine a cause for your problem with no illustrations to work from. I have done some research and I'm just as confused as you are at this point. The only working components for the oven (besides the igniter and burner) is the oven safety valve, the gas shut off valve, and the oven thermostat. You said the oven safety valve is working, though. The gas shut off valve (just like the regulator) I believe feeds both the surface and the oven burners. If the surface is working then it can't be the regulator or shut off valve. So...what's left? You said the igniter was working properly and is drawing about 3.6 amps. The oven thermostat (which is the oven control switch) I believe could cause a problem with ignition, but don't have a reliable means of telling you how to determine if it's bad or not. The switch has a thermo-couple at the end of it that (if not working properly) could give you problems with the burner not lighting properly if the valve in the switch isn't working properly. More commonly I experience temperature control problems when the oven thermostat goes bad. So...where does that leave us?

    Gas Safety Valve - you checked GOOD.
    Igniter - you checked GOOD.
    Regulator - You said surface burners are working. Regulator feeds both.
    Gas shut off valve - I believe controls both.
    Oven thermostat - I'm leaning towards this as a possibly, but don't want to mislead you, either. The part number is 624064 if you decide to pursue this option.

    Double check everything (especially the gas safety valve) and let me know if this helps. Sorry...I wish I had a better answer at this point.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Sep 27, 2007

    Okay...I was assuming when you said you tested the valve (September 21 posting) that it meant it was FULLY functional. If you are seeing a variance of voltage going to the gas safety valve, but you still have no gas getting to the oven burner manifold, then...I guess at this point I would rule out the oven control thermostat and go ahead and replace the safety valve. Part number 625319. Sorry for the confusion. I hope this resolves your problem.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Sep 27, 2007

    If the part numbers are identical in the photos that you mentioned, then I can't see spending more for the same part. I don't think this will be a problem.



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