No power up.

most electronics now days only last for about five to seven years
so I would get checked out by a technician.

non working ram leads to no boot at all or crashes. if ur laptop able to boot but unable to detect the built in monitor while at the same time detects external monitor just fine then the problem probably lies on the built in monitor itself or probably some lose cable between the mainboard and the monitor. i can assure u the GPU is working fine. if u can locate the RAM, it doesn't hurt to check them out tho. try reverting to stock ram by removing the newly installed ones and see.

So it doesn't power up at all? I'm only asking because you said it's not the connection.
If it doesn't power up, open the box and reseat everything, something may have come loose during the move.

it needs a new a\c power block inside they are cheap and semi difficult to repair i wouldnt think it would be over 100$ max but it isnt in my lap to inspect so this is my opinion ok

it depends on the beeping
but i guess it's ur graphic card
make sure that the card is firmly in place and also check the memory modules.

Just wanted to confirm the solution (or atleast solution to MY problem).

Thank You to those who posted the solution to this problem.

I have a Samsung 52" HD LCD TV. I bought it 1 1/2 yrs ago and recently had been experiencing this problem of continual clicking and no video upon power up.

It would take approximately 3 - 5 minutes before eventually turning on. I noticed that prior to turning on, the clicking would get faster and the blue light at the base of stand would begin to get brighter.

So, based on the suggestions here, I opened up the back of the TV and located the Power Supply. I visually inspected the capacitors and in fact, found 2 of them that had a subtle but obvious bubble or protrusion on the top -vs- flat tops, like the majority of the caps.

These caps were 2200microfared, 10V rating. I went to my local Radio Shack and bought a higher rated version of the 2200 microfared caps (35V). I Replaced the old caps with these new ones and it solved my problem. :)

There were a couple of caveats though:

1) the higher rated caps were physically larger & had axial leads vs radial leads.

2) The leads of the larger caps were just thick enough to prevent them from being inserted in the board.

3) Rather then make the holes of the board bigger and risk destroying the solder pad, I used appropriate sized leads from some resistors that I had as extensions and soldered the new capactiors to the extensions. Of course you need to be aware of polarity and assure that the leads will not come in contact with each other or anything else on the board.

4) Capacitor Radio Shack p/n: 272-1020. Total cost of both was less then $10.

Hope this is helpful. I did take some pics of the capacitor location and board location. If anyone would be interested in the pics, you can email me @" [email protected]"

u r very correect its the time for new 1 to be bought. u can get the new 1 from radio shack websites. and also dont try to use that faulty charger again as it can possibly blow the laptop electrical parts internally due to any over power short circuit.

The Quest charges on about 5 volts you have to plug the cigarette adapter into a 12 volt souce, the adapter then converts it to 5 volts. If you splice 12 volts directly into the mount the quest will not work because you burn up the circuits or the battery.

Does the power supply have its own power switch?

It is located next to where the power wire plugs into the back of the PC.

If you bought a new battery and connect the powercable and still nothing happens it's usually a problem with a fuse. If not a fuse it's usually the cpu. If the problem is with the vga the lights usually turn on. Difficult problem. This depends on how fare you want to go and able to spent.

good luck