No t.v. there is no power to the fly back transformer.checked fuses,found a hole burnt in the side of the voltage regulator ic and replaced it. any other ideas?

It seems that your Pulse Width Modulation drive ic on power supply or high voltage section fails. This can be resolve by replacing the IC MCZ3001d that will be found on your power supply or at the high voltage section.(near Fly back transformer) If you have basics knowledge in electronics and soldering, you can easily fix it.

you need to check the voltage output of your power supply section.This power supply supply is a switching type power supply.there is a chopper transformer in there.its supply is a dc voltage unlike any other transformer which is AC supplied on the primary..First step.
1.Using a multitester measure the primary supply it is a DC voltage around 220v - 110 VDC
2.Measure the secondary output.The out put is AC voltage the supply for the B+ going to plyback is 115vdc the second output is 12v run through a regulator and the regulator lower the voltage to 5vdc.this 5vdc supplies the system IC and the jungle IC.this ic process the switching of the plyback transformer and the plyback transformers output supplies the voltage of the whole system including your relay in the degaussing section....once the plyback is activated the tv will now turn on...

good luck!Hope i helped you..

please rate my help..god bless!

You may be on the wrong track here.......fly backs are a common failure,but not because of power surge. Most commonly the problem would be on the primary side of the power supply ,such as the rectifiers and sw mode regulator. If you want to prove it,just un solder the horiz out transistor(q401) and the pin of the flybackit connects to...... and if it still blows fuse ,you need to work on the power supply.......not the horiz/hv area

check for 24 volts ac at R & C terminals at the t-stat. Your transformer will have 4 wires hooked up to it. Two on one side and two on the other. Two of them will read either 120v or 240 v ac depending on whether you have a 120 or 240 v voltage. The other side should read 24 volts. If you are not reading 24 volts, then you have burnt the transformer and will need to replace it. If you are reading 24 volts, check to see if there a low voltage fuse located on the control circuit board or somewhere between the transformer and "R" terminal.
Here's a picture of a typical low voltage transformer found in an A/C system:


If you replace the transformer, add a 5 amp fuse on one of the 24 volt leads......this will save you from having to replace another transformer in the event of future "short" in the low voltage circuit.
Contact me with any questions or concerns.

I hope you find this to be very helpful to you moving forward,

Please leave a rating. :-)

You probably have a burned out high voltage transformer. That's what produces the ozone. Helpful hint...........the high voltage transformer is also the one used in bug zappers

Your switched Mode Power Supply has failed... Check the output from the bridge rectifier, check the Controller IC, ALL the Electrolytic Capacitors, Do a "Dry" "Diode" multimeter test on all discrete components. Check for voltage on the pins of the DC side of the fly-back transformer too. Check for shorts.

When the fuse blows suspect an overload in either the power supply or Main Amp section.
Check for burnt/damage parts first!
Power Supply faults that will blow the fuse are: Transformer, Rectifier, Voltage Regulator, Large Electrolytic Capictors, Diodes & any other semiconductor connected with it.
Main Power Amp faults are: any semiconductor device on the heatsink.

This is a very common problem for this TV. You have a blown solder in fuse by the high-voltage transformer. It is caused by bad solder connections on the transformer itself. Solder the transformer and replace the fuse and you'll be as good as new! An honest professional should not charge more than $200 to do this.

Samsung 153V LCD Monitor Power Supply Repair Tips

Troubleshooting Samsung 153V LCD power supply is just like troubleshooting those CRT type. This monitor came in with no power symptom. If you are first time repairing this type of power supply, I recommend you to first remove the switch mode power transformer. Then test every single component in the primary section, before you continue to check the secondary section.

You have to be good in testing basic electronic components in order to detect the fault. You can always browse through my website just in case you do not know how to test basic electronic components. If you do not know the right way to check, you might miss out a bad component and this will lead you not able to solve the problem. After carefully checking all the components in the power supply section, I found the filter capacitor do not have any reading using digital capacitance meter (open) , the two round type fuse also open circuit, 1N4744 15 Volt zener diode short circuit and lastly the power IC TOP247F blown!.

Testing the SMPS (switch mode power supply) primary winding with a **** smith fly-back tester, shows green bar which indicates good winding. What we left here were the secondary diode and filter capacitor. Upon checking them with analog meter and ESR meter, found all of them to be good condition. Other area like main board and inverter board also looks okay (Power failure rarely affect these two circuit). Now we have confirmed that only five components found to be faulty.

One by one the components were replaced (except one fuse) and just before you switch on the power supply, make sure you connect a 100 watt light bulb across the live ac line. Once it is done you can then proceed to switch on the LCD monitor to look at the brightness of the bulb.

If it very bright, this suggests that there are still short circuit somewhere in the power section. If it dim or totally goes off, you can now place your red probe to the secondary side to check if any dc present at their respective line. If there are DC voltages present at the output, you can switch off the power, discharge the filter capacitor (for safety purposes), remove the light bulb and connect back the new fuse to its original location.

You are now hundred percent sure that the LCD power supply won

check for bad solder connections then check all fuses the ones that look like resistors too get back to me