Under counter Bosch,grinding noise

It seems as though you have changed everything.

A grinding noise is associated with something turning or rubbing against something. The only other thing that springs to mind are the drive shafts, which have splined ends. The link below will show you generic images of driveshafts
kia drive joints Google Search

Each end of the drive shaft is splined. One end fits into the gearbox and the other end attaches to the road hub of the road wheel.

It's usually the hub (universal joint that allows the wheel to turn)/ wheel end of the drive shaft that wears. It may be that the grinding noise has been more pronounced when turning? And the grinding noise is coming from just one side?

A new drive shaft isn't cheap although second hand ones are readily available. replacing a driveshaft isn't a particularly difficult job.

However, it may be an idea to get somebody to remove the brake calliper/rotor/ driveshaft hub and inspect the hub/splined end of the drivehaft. What you're looking for is worn, broken or chipped splines. If all seems okay try cleaning and repacking with driveshaft grease. It's probably the hub - the bit that allows the wheel to turn - as opposed to the splines -there's bearings inside that hub (also known as a universal joint). There's no real way of examining that hub other than replacing the driveshaft

Sounds like you installed the wrong part to the wrong area. Also Sound's like it's the thermal overload you here

The grinding noise when you are braking is worn out pads. Metal against metal is not good for your discs - replace the pads otherwise your up for machining of the discs or replacing. That noise on start-up is common with worn teeth on the fly wheel. The fly wheel will stop in "common" positions just how the momentum of the motor works and the teeth can wear out at these spots - sounds horrid but is not "unsafe" problem is one day you may not be able to start the car if the starter cannot engage the fly wheel to turn the motor over. This is where you hear of people turning the motor over a little by hand (they usually remove the stone plate from below the fly wheel to hand crank the engine) I don't recommend this practice probably better to price a replacement and while it is apart consider any other work eg. Clutch or minor seal leaks as it is not a small job to replace the flywheel.

this noise is the drain pump it needs to be replaced

there is a screen filter in the hose end where it attaches to the supply valve. this is usually under your sink. turn off the water valve and undo the supply hose ( usually gray on a bosch). pull out the rubber washer, and then remove the filter. clean and reinstall it. the noise is usually due to the sediment in the filter causing the water pressure to fall. you can hear the fill valves flutter when it is trying to take water in.

GM rears are known for this noise it is usually caused by a pinion bearing that is coming apart or what they call bernelling ( I am not sure I spelled that correctly) it is little pits in the cones in the bearing it comes from lack of lubrication or the pinion seal leaking,you could pull the rear cover and drain the fluid into a dark pan and look for debris or alot of silver color.

Please confirm that you have an LG LDS 5811 dishwasher? Approximately how many years old is the dishwasher?
First things first: regarding the 'crud' Run at least one cycle, with no detergent powder added - and when you go put in the extra water, add up to two cups of vinegar plus more water and let it run until it errors. This will not fix the major problem, but staring with a clean sump area (and keeping it clean) is a good start. FYI: Stop using all gels and tablets, switch to a brand name detergent powder-like Electrosol or Cascade. Always use high quality powder in all dishwashers, especially energy and water conserving DWs like the modern LG models.
Next, given that you are getting an E! code, triple check that you do not have a leak, especially directly under the dishwasher. If not, start at the end of the DW drain hose (does it connect to a sink disposal?) follow it back to the DW. That hose must rise to at least the height of the bottom of the counter top or be connected to an Air Gap valve. If the hose does not have that rise in it, your problem is caused by natural siphoning out of the dishwasher into the drain. Either add an air gap (even if you don;t have a sink disposal) or suspend the hose high from the bottom of the counter.
Regarding the filter (mesh screens) in the sump area, while it may be melted, I doubt that melting was caused by the dishwasher itself, because the heating element is well below the filter.
Pull the lower spray arm up and out. Remove the nine phillips screws that hold the filter down and then pull the filter. Wash out the "self cleaning" filter housing.
The LG replacement part for the upper housing with the mesh screen panels is: FILTER ASSEMBLY, MESH 5231DD1001A I also recommend you replace the filter seal: SEAL 4036DD3001A
Then inspect under the filter in the sump area for any debris. Remove it but watch out for broken glass! Use a flashlight and look real close for anything foreign.
Inspect the Impeller, look for damage and confirm that it spins easily but is securely attached.
Reassemble and test out.
Good Luck!

Click the following link, it should solve your problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/t238726-sensor_error
Regards Wayne

sounds like the light engine there are alot of problems with the light engines and quite a few have had a grinding noise. The only other possibility would be the color wheel. But I would lean heavier toward the light engine being the fault.