Found my fault not i the power cable in, but the interconnect to radar dome..approx 50mm from radar screen a break in the wire, found it just by wiggling the cable.. the set wont power up if the interconnect not connected or is faulty
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Fuse #15 "BACK UP/ACC" (40 Amp) in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box protects the circuits leading to Fuse #7 "BACKUP" (7.5 Amp) in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box and also fuses (#5 "RADIO" (10 Amp), #6 "INTR LIGHT" (7.5 Amp), #7 "BACK UP" (7.5 Amp), #8 "not used", and #9 "FR ACC SOCKET (10 Amp) in the Driver's Fuse/Relay Box.
To further narrow down the source of your draw, pull each of these fuses one at a time.
No, that was not a "typo" There are 2 fuses marked "BACK UP" and are both 7.5 Amp and one is
in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box and the other is in the Driver's Fuse/Relay Box. (I checked this 3 times just to make sure.)
Normally the bearing pulse comes from the bearing pulse generator built inside the motor. Every time the motor turns it sends a pulse down the line showing the radar that it is indeed spinning. There is also a Heading pulse that comes from an electric eye elsewhere in the housing. The other thing could be that the wire carrying the bearing pulse is not getting back to the display. More so than often, it's the motor. I would have the display sent out to be checked on a simulator if there is a marine electronicshop nearby.
I also need this very same power cable. Did you find one already? maybe you can tell me wich one of the 7 input connections is the + and - DC power connection so I can connect this thing myself with a home made power cable. Greetings. Stan (holland) [email protected]
Your 8500 X50 draws less than 1 Amp of power. The best solution for hardwiring your radar detector is to purchase one of Escort's direct wire kits and then use an Add-A-Circuit (available at almost any auto parts store) to tap the direct wire kit's power into one of the vehicle fuse box's switched power fuses. I recommend tapping into a fuse which is rated for 10A or higher since the higher amperage fuse terminals have thicker wires running back to the car battery, and this generally provides cleaner power for the radar detector.
You didn't mention which fuse it was that blew; I assume you mean a house fuse, not the Bunn's.
Since you mention a fuse rather than a circuit breaker, again, I assume this is the screw-in type that must be replaced each time it fails.
Check your Bunn for the rated power consumption; it should be shown somewhere on the machine and is likely somewhere between 1000 and 2000 watts.
You need to find how much current the machine is drawing.
Divide the given wattage by your line voltage which is probably (if in the US) ~120 Volts.
For example: (from the Bunn) 1200 Watts/120 volts = 10 Amperes
That means that when the Bunn is heating water, it will need 10 amps just for itself.
If, for example, you have a microwave oven using that same fuse that has a rating of 1000 watts power to cook with, it will actually draw ~ 1400-1500 watts from the wall plug.
Again, 1500 Watts/120 volts = 12.5 Amperes
Now we have a total of 22 1/2 amps of current if both are operating at the same time or if any other appliance such as a toaster (also draws a bunch) is being used, you will most likely blow a 20 amp fuse if not instantly, perhaps after a few minutes.
Fuses are designed to blow in a few milliseconds if hugely overloaded or to be patient for a minute or two if the over-current is mild; say 21 amperes.
Over-fusing may be dangerous since the fuse rating is related to the gauge of wiring in the circuit it protects.
This means that you need to move the Bunn to a different circuit so you don't accidentally exceed the fuse rating with two high-powered appliances if turned on together.
Hi , I have a JRC 1000 with manual if it can helps ( in English and french but i ma in france. You can also use the installation manual of JRC 1500 available on internet under pdf format , very similar ( same screen and operating interface ) [email protected]
If you are blowing fuses this means that you are drawing too much current check your impedance value on your amplifier it should be 8 ohms to match the subwoofer's 8 ohms of impedance. In addition make sure that you have the proper value fuses. In other words you should not be tuning the amp not to blow fuses, because you should be able to go to full amplitude on your amp without blowing anything. As I alluded to this sounds like an impedance mismatch problem.
I hope this helps,