Question about Samsung LN46D630 LCD TV
I have a samsung LN46D630. When I turn it on, it will stay one for a few minutes, then shut itself off (the red light turns off, and the screen is black; I've looked at it in a darkened room and there is no light coming from the screen). I can turn it back on but, when I do, it stays on for a much shorter period of time, say 1 minute, before turning itself off again. If I turn it on again, it will stay on for just a few seconds, then turn itself off. I've noticed that if I leave it off for a while (for example, overnight), then when I turn it on the next day, it will again stay on for 5-10 minutes before turning off. Then the whole cycle starts again (=turn it back on, stays on a minute or so; turn it back on, stays on a few seconds). I have no knowledge of the inner workings of a TV but this seems like a heating issue to me (bad heat sinks maybe?). If anyone could help me figure out what's wrong, that would be fantastic, since the TV is now out of warranty and it'll cost me $75 just to get it looked at.
I have a solution. My Samsung plasma had the same problem with the bottom half of the screen being black. Follow these directions and it will not cost you a dime, just some time. I took the back panel of the tv. I found the lower buffer board on the left hand side. I disconnect all the ribbon cables. Use an air cleaner to spray out any dust on the ribbon connection and the board. I connect the ribbons back to the board. My plasma is now as good as new. If you have issue with the top portion, do the same with the upper buffer board. I was going to buy a new tv but I'm glad I gave this a shot first. It's been almost a month and it's still working fine. Hope this helps and hope it saves you some money.
Posted on Nov 14, 2009
Problem: Samsung LTM1755B with only a blinking yellow LED when you try to turn it
Solution: I just had one of these come in. I opened it up, and found the U501 capacitor a little suspicious looking, in that it had a deformed top. It was a 470uF 16V electrolytic 105degC 10mm x 12mm. I replaced it with a very good quality 1000uF 16V electrolytic 105degC 10mm x 16mm Nichicon UHN1C102MPD. After that repair, when I tried to turn it on, the LED was yellow for a second, then green, then I got a picture, and it appeared to work great. I then asked the owner a week later how it was working, and they said it was working just like new!
Posted on Jan 19, 2010
its usually the 2200 microfarad cap on the power board that stops working. its really easy to replace and its only a 5 dollar repair part. use a 2200 mF cap rated around 25 volts instead of the usual 10 volts. samsung is famous for bad caps. if the cap feels buldged than this is the problem
Posted on Mar 30, 2010
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