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Rubber Cupling The rubber cupling that connects the motor to the gear box appears to be the problem...my question is how difficult is that to fix and the best way to dismantle the unit to repair it. Thanks in advance for your advice and help. Brant

Posted by turf on

  • turf Sep 10, 2007

    thanks for the help...got it repaired



1 Answer

Franklin Ouchida

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You must have a whirlpool or kenmore washer.. the hardest part is to get the machine open. let me know what model you have and I can help you...also check to make sure the transmission is not locked up.

Posted on Sep 06, 2007


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Ckeck pilot is blue and strong not blocked and it is heating the tip of the thermocouple . Check the nut it tight hold it in to the valve .

I had a slow spin and load noise problem in my Whirlpool Top Loader tryed the...

This advice is for Whirlpool manufactured direct-drive TOP LOADING washers with a no-spin problem. This includes Kenmore, Roper, Estate, and certain Kitchenaid, Kelvinator and Maytag models. If in doubt, please include your MODEL NUMBER when posting questions.

The most common source of a no spin problem can either be attributed to a broken motor coupling, or a lid switch malfunction.


If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:


The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. This configuration is known as a "direct-drive" system. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

A replacement coupler can be purchased for about $10 - $15. The part number is included in the link provided above.


If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and won't advance to the rinse cycle, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The washer usually will NOT drain either. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:


On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly. The average price for a replacement lid switch is $20 - $30.

Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following web sites:


I have found these sites to be reputable and provide great service. Prices differ between them, so shop and compare. If you do not wish to order parts on line, look up the part numbers on the Sears site and take them to your nearest appliance parts retailer. These parts are commonly found in their in-store inventory.


Take note of your symptoms:

1. Washer fills, may or may not agitate, will not advance to the rinse cycle, and will NOT drain - LID SWITCH.

2. Washer fills, does NOT agitate or spin, but WILL drain - MOTOR COUPLING.

If you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this information is helpful.
on Feb 12, 2010 • Washing Machines

96 ford e150 when driveing van feels like its wobbles in frount sterring wheel goes back and forth

Could in fact be the coupling in the column or something in the gear box.
Might be a ball joint or tie rod end which can be tough to check off the ground.

Won't spin. makes loud noise when draining and won't spin the basin.

If this is a top loader there is a cupling that is made of rubber and a set of plastic parts that are between the motor and the transmission drive. The plastic has fingers that go into the rubber piece and the fingers shear off , the other end of the motor has the water pump on it so it will pump water out but do nothing else. you have to pull the motor out and replace the set and reasemble.

My washer won't spin. have replaced timer and motor cupling.

Please click on the Green ACCEPT button below to appreciate my time and assistance being provided. Bonuses are appreciated as well.

Wont spin

I had this same problem once and it was pretty simple, I removed the agitator asembly, not 100% sure on your model. and there is a cupling between the moror and the agitotor. the guy at the appliance store saidit was a sacraficial part that brakes when a large load is put on the motor to protect it. usually like a 13.00 piece

Washing machine - Need to replace motor cupling on the kenmore 90 series

you have to access the coupling by removing the housing of the machine,

you can tilt it a little bit to the back so that the motor is in your front.
remove the water pump clamps so that you can remove the pump.

unscrew the screws holding the clamps of the motor.( hold the motor tight, it is heavy)
remove the clamps, the motor will fell..

remove the motor and you can see that the coupling is attached to its shaft.

one coupling goes to the shaft of the motor, the other coupling goes to gear box shafting, and the rubber ring is in between the two coupling.

normally, only one coupling is damaged and you can just replace that coupling. you have the other two parts as spare.

i hope this would solve your problem.

tnx 4using fixya,



Kenmore 90 Series Washing Machine

the coupling does go bad, Often, very often
one of the two spiders is attached to the motor shaft, one is attached to the gearbox input shaft and the rubber ring mates them together, the motor shaft coupling collapses often,
the coupling is ~$16-$25 depending on the parts sales place.
If you can see the coupling, you probably already have the body off,
If not remove the body
from there its easy to replace

undo 2 spring clips that hold the pump on the outer of the motor,
pull pump forward and off the motor shaft and swing aside,
remove screw from head of spring clip between motor and gearbox, remove this spring clip (remember position)
swing motor against coupling to loosen other spring clip, remove spring clip
pull motor forward and away from gearbox
break couplings off shaft of motor and gearbox.
  • NOTE: new coupling sets have a metal center hub to combat this very common failure,
    ask the parts supplier if they have one with metal hubs,
    if they offer to sell you one identical to the picture, all plastic, old style
Fit new couplings to motor and gearbox shaft using wooden dowel between the teeth, on the hub centers, hit the dowel, not the gear, with a hammer.
fit new rubber ring to gearbox,
install in reverse order
rotate motor to align the teeth
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