Question about Dometic RM2852 Refrigerator
Sounds like the thermistor is bad. Several ways to test.
1: Place the end of the thermistor that is located inside the refrigerator into a glass of slushy water and read the ohms resistance on the plug end which is located on the back of the refrigerator. Compare your readings to the chart. If they are not in range then the thermistor is bad and needs to be replaced.
2: Unplug the thermistor from the circuit board. It will be the harness that has only two wires going into a hard plastic plug. Leave it unplugged for 24 hours and check the temp inside the refrigerator. If the temp has dropped then the thermistor is bad and needs to be replaced.
To replace the thermistor remove the thermistor sensor end from the plastic clip. Remove the plastic grommet from the back wall of the refrigerator. Tape the new plug end to the sensor head of the old thermistor and gently guide it through the hole. Once the taped head/plug passes through the hole you may complete pulling the new thermistor through from the back side. Only pull enough to allow you to plug the new thermistor in. Un-tape the plug end from the head and plug the thermistor in to the circuit board. Reinstall the cover over the circuit board and reinstall the access pane. There will be some sealing putty on the old thermistor harness. Remove that and gently press it back into the hole around the new thermistor harness inside the refrigerator and reinstall the plastic grommet. Install the sensor end into the plastic clip and install the plastic clip between the first and second fins. The higher up on the fin the colder the temp will be inside the refrigerator.
Posted on Jul 02, 2014
SOURCE: Freezing in the refrigerator
you probably have a damper control that is sticking open letting the cold air in fromthe reezer but not closing the small door when the freezer is to tempreture check this first
Posted on Apr 30, 2010
cooling unit is bad my friend there is a temporary fix but in my opinion not worth your time take the unit out and flip the refer upside down this sometimes dislodges the blockage in the cooling unit all a rv fridge is is amonia and salt if not used all the time the salt crystalizes in the orfice and blocks the unit a rebult cooling unit 550 about and labor 4 hours at your dealers rate a new fridge about 1500 installed
my shop 360 for labor 550 about for unit 910
I ALLWAYS RECOMEND REPLACING THE FRIDE COMPLETLTY
you get all new electronics and a new box
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
SOURCE: We have a Model 2852
Here's a link to enter your model number and serial number so have them ready. Follow instructions from there.
http://67.238.126.140/recall.php
Posted on Dec 26, 2010
SOURCE: Refrigerator for lp-gas and electri
SOLENOID VALVE
Check the solenoid coil with a properly calibrated ohm meter. Remove the connector from the solenoid
and measure the resistance across the terminals. The proper reading would be 49 ohms with tolerance
range of ten percent. . .
Next, hook up a manometer at the test port. Then check for DC volts at gas valve terminals while the
unit is in trial-for-ianition. If DC volts are present and pressure is low, replace the valve. If DC volts are
not present at the valve while the unit is in trial-for-ianition, verify that the wire at Plug 3, Terminal 2 on
lower circuit board have DC volts v (9V or more)
IGNITER
First verify proper voltage at the positive (+) and ground (-) terminals of
the ignitor. The reading should be within one volt of incoming voltage at
the main terminal block during trial-for-inanition
Next, remove high voltage cable from igniter. The igniter should produce
a sparking sound, during trial-for-inanition. If not, replace the
igniter.
The igniter installed on the refrigerators as original equipment is part
number 2931132019 (RV Gas Model 679). This igniter is rated 50 MA.
This igniter may also be used on any other model
Hope this helped
Appliance Wiz
Inanition: Proofing for ignition
Posted on Dec 27, 2010
SOURCE: refrigerator is running on LP-gas
As per the problem, its indicating towards bad thermister, it has to be replaced.-----
The thermister is the part That controls the temperature.----
To test the thermistor follow this procedure :---
Disconnect the thermistor harness from the P2, 2-pin terminal on the lower circuit board. Place the thermistor in
a glass of ice water (more ice than water), approximately
33° F to 35° F. Wait 8 to 10 minutes. You should get a
reading of approximately 8,000 to 10,000 ohms. Always
test from the wire side as shown with the meter as not to
create a connection problem at the P2 connector.
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There is a service manual available for your dometic rm-2652 refrigerator.
Click the link below:--
http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf
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On page number 11 is mentioned about thermistor.---Be sure that it just didn't get knocked off the fin where it attaches in the fridge. If it tests bad then it is about a $30 part depending on where you buy it and it takes about an hour to replace. Also be sure it has a good connection on the control board.
all tests are provided in service manual.-------
Also click this link for more details:---
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/07/dometic-fridge-freezing-in-refrigerator.html
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This should help.thanks.Helpmech.
Posted on Jul 08, 2011
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