Snow/ice on a portion of the frigo back panel

Look for ice build up on the back of the freezer panel. if there is ice or snow the defrost system has failed. if there is no ice then it could be a fan that has failed. Worst case is an inneffiecient compressor.

Make sure the fan(s) are running. If they are then check to see if ice is building up on the freezer panel in back. If there is snow or ice then you have a defrost problem. There are three components to a defrost system. The defrost heater, defrost thermostat and a timer or defrost control one of these is probably bad. The defrost drain could also be blocked causing the air circulation to be blocked. The worst case could e a weak compressor.

Most problems with side by sides frosting up is due to failure of the defrost heater in the bottom of the freezer section behind the panel inside.

,next time send the brand name and full model number off of the fridge,you can remove the back panel and use a regular house fan to keep the compressor cool until you get the new motor,when it dies did you check to make sure there's still 120 volts going down to it?if this has a computer board in it the board could be bad.when the compressor comes on the fan should also come on they are wired in series,usually the fan either works or it doesn't and you can check it with a meter for ohms,it either reads good or bad,and your ice maker drops ice like every two hours and that's only a few cubes.what is the problem your having?

we will go through the entire process here and hopefully it will help you troubleshoot the problem and correct.. first thing to check is that both the fan in the rear of refrigerator behind refrigerator is working ( next to compressor) next check to see that fan inside the freezer section is running ?(may require you to open door and hold door switch closed with finger while door is opened. to check these if not will require a volt meter and should get 120 volts to both if they are not running. next if they both are good.. in the freezer section on the back wall do you see any frost or snow looking ice building up on back wall inside freezer... if so then we know the compressor is running there most likely is a defrost issue... to varify this may require you to remove the shelfs and the back panel of freezer which will also allow us to check a few other componets.. if there is a large amount of ice behind the panel then the unit is not defrosting properly which in return will cut off airflow and cooling will stop normally first in the refrigerator and then the freezer... if there is ice build up on the coils located behind this panel inside the freezer then you will need to unplug and use a hair dryer to that do not hold the hair dryer to long in one place as it can melt the plastic liner of the freezer,,, check the heater located at bottom of coil after thawed remove wires and see if you get contuinity through the heater if so it is good if you thawed completely.. there is a small defrost thermostat on the coil clipped to coil itself that closes on temperature i would suggest replacing it as well as the defrost control on unit and you should be fixed up... if there is no ice on back wall or behind back panel and all fans are working then you want to check compressor is it running and have you heard any clicking from the rear of unit.. you may have a bad compressor relay which is a common probelm.. if you have a way to check the amp draw on compressor wires while running it should be between 1.2.- 2.9 amps on either of the wires coming to compressor... hope this helps
www.sears.com then hit the parts direct link up top enter your model number and a parts diagram will appear you can order parts from them and have them shipped if you dont have a local appliance parts store good luck to you & god bless

do u have water also going to your door? if you do check the hose connections that run to the door also check the rear of the machine remove the back panel check that u have no leaks in the water valve and also check that the pan that drains from your freezer around the area of your compressor is not full and that the fan is running onthe compressor sounds like you might have a leak in the water going to your door .also check the line goingup the back of the machine to the ice maker hope this helps

HI. Just so you know, Hissing and popping is normal on frost free refrigerators, it is the defrost heater, in this case. I would check these following areas to address any other abnormal noises.

If the level of the unit is not adjusted to proper specs, this will create an unstable operating condition, causing many noises to emit from the units structure. inspect the unit for proper level. adjust if needed. Next will be the drain pan. Once removed for cleaning, the pan must be replaced in position correctly. If not, the pan will rattle against the compressor, causing a ping or rattle.Simply reposition the tray if this is the case. The third possible issue will be the condenser fan. The condenser fan is located behind the refrigerator. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to reach it. This fan has a shroud, and if the fan blade becomes warped, it will rub against the shroud, causing noise. This fan blade is whole,and it can be removed and replaced if this is the case. Ok, the fourth problem spot will be the evaporator fan.

The evaporator fan is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. Check the fan for warped blades. if the blades are warped or mis-aligned, replace it. This fan also is protected by a shroud as well, and it will make noise if the fan blade is damaged.

Last, i would move on to the compressor mounts. This is the most common spot for noise overtime. The compressor sits on rubber mountings. Those rubber mountings are designed to absorb vibration from the compressor. As the mountings age, they can become hard or disintegrate. When this happens, the compressor vibration is transmitted to the refrigerator structure and it can cause noise.

The compressor is located in the rear. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to get to the compressor.

Locate the compressor and remove the screw or retaining clip of just one of the compressor mounts.Using a pry bar, lift up the compressor enough to slip out the rubber mount. Inspect the mount for deterioration. The rubber should be firm but not rigid. If the mount is crumbling or hard, it should be replaced.

This concludes the inspection procedure. Follow carefully, and replace any failed or damaged device.

Pull the refrig out , and remove the back panel . Is the fan that cools the compressor working ? Is the coil roll clean ? If the fan is not working , then the problem is probably the main control board . Behind the 8"X10" panel , above the compressor area . Remove the cover , and look for a burnt resistor , just to be safe . If this fan does not work , then the coils and the refrigerant line running between the doors , will get very hot .

In turning it off you may have only closed the air damper. Set it to 1/2 way.
If ice or frost in the air damper area on refrigerator side you may not be defrosting the freezer coil.

Inspect from bottom looking up with a mirror and flashlight. You should have no Ice buildup frost that is even and white is normal. Feel Check the back wall mid way down to 1/4 way to bottom. Push on the wall slightly. Crunching like frost or snow behind wall is not normal. I suspect non defrosting here.
Next eliminate the inside fan motor. It has to run to push air all over the freezer and refrigerator. If this fan doesn't run the results will be only the area with the refrigeration evaporator coil will cool and it may get too cold and resemble a non defrosting situation where the air is not able to circulate because of frost build up.

Next eliminate the Ice maker and light as a source of heat. Unscrew and unplug them
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Next eliminate the door gaskets from not sealing. A piece of paper set tween the door and frame and pulled across it and you feel resistance all the way and the gaskets are smooth and not warped they are OK

Next inspect the condenser fan and coil by the compressor underneath. A dirty coil here will cause diminished heat removal and possible for a partial cooling of some of the freezer.

Only after inspecting all these items and determining they are OK should you proceed with refrigerant checking. Also a person with out the ability to measure the actual amount of refrigerant being put in should be shown the door. Even with topping off (adding some) refrigerant I use a scale to determine that I do not put in too much. So if you have a friend that does this and no way to tell how much is too much.... well with all due respect your getting what you pay for.

If this helps you understand your problem and need more information please post back, I will follow up. If it helped you determine your trouble please rate me as high as you can. Thank You for using fixya and good luck.
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