More than 5 blinks there is a problem in any other section. Maybe in powersupply section, deflection section and audio section also. Sometimes dry contacts in soldered points also give same symptom. Service persons only done this problem. If you technician give the chassis details.
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These blinks [flashes] are fault indication (Error Codes). From the number of blinks occur at one time switch ON, you can get an idea about the faulty circuit section inside it. This will make repair easy. These are called blinking codes. Make sure about the exact number of blinking of the standby/power LED, by switching On & OFF the set, for at least two times. Count it carefully. If you wish to get some details, check the site linked here. It has details about blinking codes, and fault locating procedure, to many popular brand TVs and other devices. http://electro-medical.blogspot.com/
3 blinks indicates lamp door is not on or has not been reinstalled properly. This also could mean the lamp door switch has failed itself. Try removing the lamp door and putting back on, if that doesnt correct the problem then I recommend having the switch replaced.
Hi Thanks for using FixYa. The green LED on the front panel of the TV
that normally blinks when turned on after a power failure or when unplugged:
the green light is supposed to flash for about 1 minute while both
microprocessors boot up: If it won't stop blinking it means that they aren't
communicating with each other.
This issue is due to 1000uF/16 volt power supply capacitors in the "DM
module" (one of the two onboard microprocessors). These capacitors are
apparently small as compared to load they get & due to this they will eventually
fail (usually after about 3 years). Or else they fail when there are voltage
fluctuations in the circuit above 16 volts. It is recommended to install either
1000uF/25 volt or 1000uF/35 volt capacitors as replacements, so that they will
be more than ample to handle any voltage spikes that will occur. You’ll need to
take the back off the TV apart in order to remove the faulty DM module. You’ll
need to desolder the old capacitors on DM board and install. Also check the
grounding straps which are essential to the proper functioning of the DM
replacing several bad capacitors (you can get replacement capacitors from
Mouser electronics on line by the way.. be sure to order the same capacitance
values and same or higher voltage rating and be sure they are rated for 105
degrees C.) I still had the dreaded G.L.O.D. Note that the first time I plugged
it in after taking it apart the G.L.O.D was not there and it powered up
normally. But when I had to unplug the set too fully re assemble it, it came back.
The issue is caused by both the FMT board (formatter) and the DM (Digital
Module) board’s microprocessors tying to establish communications with each
other. Somehow a race condition gets started with each thought that the other
board needs to be reset and then starting the boot process over again. You need
to interrupt this cycle with a switch. Buy a DPDT switch from radio shack (or
Mouser Elect) and again take apart your electrical chassis (If you have it
apart replacing bad caps you might as well add the switch or you may end up
having to disassemble the whole thing again.) On the FMT board along the top
edge near the input connector side of the chassis there is a four wire
connector labeled “FC”. It has two black wires and 1 orange and one Brown wire.
Leave the black wires connected and cut the orange and brown ones about an inch
from the connector. Solder four 12 inch wires onto the ends (one on the source
side brown, source side orange and one on the connector side brown and
connector side orange) use heat shrink tubing to cover the solder connection
points. (If you can’t get tubing, then electrical tape will do, but make sure
the joints can’t short out to each other or the electrical chassis.) Now take
the brown and orange wires from the connector side and solder those to the
middle two terminals of the DPDT switch (one on each side not both to both
terminals) Then pick one side of the outside terminals of the switch and solder
the source side brown and orange wires to the terminal across from the same
color (brown across from brown and orange across from orange) See the diagram
below. The idea is to connect the wires normally when the switch is closed and
break the connection when the switch is thrown the other way. Before soldering
the wires to the switch add a piece of heat shrink tubing to wire so that you
can cover the solder point up after it is assembled.
Now re-assemble the electrical chassis and route the switch/wires outside the
chassis (I snipped a hole along the edge of the top fan shield to get the wires
out.) and put it back in the TV. You need to also get the switch to the outside
of the TV somehow (I drilled a ½ inch hole in the plastic cover to snake the
switch through but you can do it however you like)
Here is how to use it- From a fresh plug in- throw the switch to the OPEN
position (the wires are not connected) plug in the TV, the green LED should
stop blinking after 60 secs like it is supposed to. Once it stops, flip the
switch the other way so the wires are connecting. Hit the power button. The TV
should turn on- you’re done! Yeah!
From a plugged in, hmmm my power must have gone out, state. Assuming you have
the GLOD, flip the switch to the open position, hit the reset button on the
front of the TV, wait for the blinking to stop, flip the switch back closed and
turn the TV on normally… Again you are done…
Note that the first time you turn on the TV you may have to flip the switch the
other way (if the TV won’t turn on even without a blinking LED) this means that
the switch was open and you need to have it closed to get it to work. If you
tried turning on the TV with the switch open, start over by following the reset
button procedure above.
Note this is much easier to do than it sounds. Also note that it helps if you
have the repair manual. This is nice to have because it has a wiring
interconnect diagram also which details all the connector placements
Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for
further assistance. Thanks Rylee
By running it after it shutdown and it finally did its last pop that added another $XX to the parts bill.
The control boards (2) have now failed There are burned Capacitors ( pop!) and possibly even a few transistors burned out. This is not a DIY it is a Tech job as once changed these boards require additional tuning of the convergence factor.