Most power out of amp w/out blowing subs

Based on your setup, I would recommend wiring your JL W3v3.4 subs in a dual 2-ohm configuration. This will result in a 1-ohm load to the Rockford 1500.1 amplifier, which is within its safe operating range.
To wire your subs in a dual 2-ohm configuration, you would connect the positive terminal of one sub to the positive terminal of the other sub, and then connect the negative terminal of one sub to the negative terminal of the other sub. Then, you would connect the positive and negative of the combined subwoofer terminals to the positive and negative terminals on the amplifier, respectively.
Here's a diagram to help illustrate the wiring process:
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+ Sub 1 + ' --- ' +-------+-------+ ' ' + + ' ' + Sub 2 + Positive from Sub 1 -----> Positive from Sub 2 Negative from Sub 1 -----> Negative from Sub 2 Positive from Subs -------> Positive from Amp Negative from Subs -------> Negative from Amp
Keep in mind that you should always double-check your wiring with a multimeter to ensure that you've wired everything correctly and to avoid damaging your equipment. It's also a good idea to consult the owner's manual for your amplifier for specific instructions and guidelines on how to wire your subs.

Hello shermalestuc,

The JL Audio 12w6 v2-D4 has dual 4 ohm voice coils that can be wired for either a final load to the amp of 2 ohms (parallel) or 8 ohms (series).

If your amp is 2 ohm stable, the best power solution for a single sub is to use the parallel configuration, both positives and both negatives together and then to the amp.

I would stick with Kicker or MTX. The best place in my mind to get them is soncelectronix.com
Just try to mach the specs as close as possible. Make sure to look at the recommendations of the subs for the size of the box and the port volume.

you should move up to more power....underpowering subs is bad! try not to go under the subs rms by 5o watts?

HI DUDE .. U CAN ONLY SINGLE PC OF JL SUB BY BRIDGE MODE ... COZ UR MTX AMP HAVE 300WATTS RMS ....

I like JL Audio's products and in this case a 1000/1 would match these subs really well considering that each sub is rated at 600 watts RMS. I know that you want to bring these subs to the max and if you're not worried about blowing them up you can use two JL Audio 1000/1's, the JL amps have something called ohm matching and can put out 1000watts RMS at any load between 2ohms and 16ohms. A very use full feature - as well as a subsonic filter that can keep out the bass you can't hear and thus keep your subs alive longer especially if you plan to max em' out. Check out Ebay for good prices on JL Audio. Another choice might be an Audiobahn 2300, or preferably an 1800d. D class amps are best for max output and I've wired an Audiobahn 1800d down to a 1 ohm load (to two dual 4 ohm 15" Cerwin Vega Strokers paralleled down) and it was able to stay alive, but this was not used for prolonged listening (Short bursts for SPL comps). Good luck and I'll leave you with an old trick I used to use on my clients SPL Comp cars. Run an in-line fuse to each sub - start at about a 100amp fuse (1,000w @ 12v = 120 amp draw) and move it up if it blows too early, fuses are cheaper than subs! Let me know what box you are running as it must be built specifically for running the subs all-out. You can e-mail me @ ([email protected]) for free specs on basic enlosures.
-Dynami

Hello,

All of the JL W3 subwoofers are essentially the same. The "d2" and "d4" suffix refers to the voice coil configuration. "d2" = dual two ohm coils, "d4" = dual four ohm coils. Depending on the number of subwoofers in your system and the amplifier(s) you are using to power them, one or the other of the configurations may be "better".

Generally, you want to have the load on your amp to have the lowest possible impedance consistent with the amps capability to operate properly with that load. It's normally referred to as "impedance matching". Greater power (watts) is produced, and louder sound, when the amp can deliver power at a lower impedance.

If your amp is only capable of supplying power at 4 ohms, you want to make sure that the configuration of your sub(s) represents a 4-ohm load. If the load is higher, say 8 ohms, then your amp can only deliver about half the power of which it is capable. It would be OK to run them a 8 ohms, but they would not be as loud. On the other hand, if the load was lower, say 2 ohms, your amplifier would soon overheat and go into protect mode.

So the trick is to first decide on how many subs you want. Then choose an amp/sub combination that "matches".

The DVC or dual voice coils just gives you more options in selecting and configuring. Say you want 2 subs and you are going with the 15w3 d-2. Your amp is the JL Audio G-MAX monoblock. The amp puts out 1200Wx1 Chan. at 2 ohms or 600Wx1 Chan. at 4 ohms. You would wire both of your subs voice coils in series making each sub 4 ohms, then wire the 2 subs in parallel to your amp making the final load 2 ohms, the best "match" for your amp.

This sounds odd, but try putting your subs out of phase from the mains. Just see if it changes anything.

This is a single channel amp that puts out about the same power at 4 Ohms or 2 Ohms. If you have two 4 Ohm single voice coil subs, then wire them parallel (both pos and both neg) to achieve 2 ohms. If you have two dual 4 Ohm voive coils, you want to do a series - parallel config to get to 4 Ohms (voice coils in series, then parallel the subs). Same with DVC 2 Ohm subs, series parallel = 2 Ohms. Do NOT go below two Ohms. You will blow the amp (actually, it'll do 1.5 Ohms). If you happen to have 2 Ohm single voice coil subs (not as likely) run them in series. Most amps will put out about twice as much power at 2 Ohms vs. 4, but this amp is designed to put out about the same. Hope this helps!

Nine times out of ten if the amp smells burnt it usuallly is. Your best bet is to hook another amp to your system and see if you get sound.