I've only had the keg a month, so before I blame the keg, I'd like to find out if I'm doing something wrong.
I'm on my second keg, and both of them have significant dripping occuring in the front and back. I open the keg, and there's barely any evidence of where it's coming from. There is a tiny bit of foam near the interior tapper, so I kept thinging that maybe the little washer inside the nut that attaches beer line to tapper wasn't on right. I've tightened it as much as you can by hand, and that only made it worse.
My carpet is now destoyred, so I bought a drip tray that is normally used for a laundry machine. Every two days or so, I have to towel up the beer or risk it smelling like delicious yeast in my house. This can't be normal, so if anyone has any ideas, please assist.
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Re: Major leaking with kegerator (DKC645BLS)
Using a tray is not the answer. Your tapper is not propperly lineing up with your kegs inlet. Try replacing your tappers washer and o ring, if this does not work you need to replace the tapper itself. It is most likely bent and not propperly lineing up.
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This depends on the
type of system you are using to tap your keg.
A standard tap given to you with a keg will not last very long, just
less than a week. If you are using a
proper kegorator CO2 system, your beer will last at least two months, if not
longer depending on the temperature of your fridge.
try changing kegs sounds like the tube in the keg is broken the keg has a tube that runs to the bottom of the keg inside and u push air into the keg to push beer thru that tube and into a cool glass and down to ur gulletbut it sounds like u have a defective keg or an empty keg
There is a check valve inside the coupler of the danby kegs that cause this problem. The valve is mainly there to prevent beer from back-flowing when changing the keg. Next time you change your keg check for a little black plastic retainer and also a small white plastic ball inside the coupler. Remove those (or just smell it) and you should notice that this is the taste/smell your beer has. I removed mine after this discovery, and there isn't any issues with the taste/smell since. I've heard this is a common issue with the Danby D coupler systems. Also, you won't have any issues with beer backflow when you change the keg, provided the line going to the tap is empty (which usually is if keg is kicked).
If you are getting foam then finally poors fine you have a temperature problem. If you are getting constant foam then you are probably looking at a pressure problem. First of all make sure that you let your keg sit for at least 4 hours and get down to 38 degrees before you tap the keg. Also ensure that your pressure is set to at least what the pressure is in the keg (generally 13 psi). If you can, try to ask the beer manufactures (if you use a microbrewery) what pressure to set it at. One brew master told me to start at 15 psi and adjust from there.
If you still get foam and you can guarantee that the temperature is correct then you are getting some agitation from something else. Double check all your washers and even check your stop valve on the CO2 line to the coupler. Sometimes the lines are not the correct length or even the correct diameter, when the beer is forced through the line if it starts out thin and then expands or vice versa that gives beer a chance to get agitated and cause foam.
Finally the equipment that is used on these systems are generally not that great. I had a Danby Chill'n Tap and replaced the coupler and the tap and all the lines and that solved my issues, even though my problem was probably a cracked valve for the < $80 it cost me to replace everything it wasn't worth my time to figure out exactly what was wrong with it.