After starting the Self Cleaning Mode the Display went blank and the Oven Door stayed locked. The Burner Igniters still work on the Stove Top and I tried resetting the power to the unit but this did not fix the problem.
You need thermostat limiter #8300802. It is on the back of the stove behind some sheet metal towards the top. With shipping this part is about $39.00. But don't waste your money. If you replace it, it will burn out again! I am currently trying to find a way for either a class action lawsuit or a total recall. Kitchenaid/Whirpool is well aware of this problem. A $1500.00 stove and it won't self clean.
So we just had the same problem with our $1500 kitchen aid convection oven.About 1 1/2 hrs into the self clean cycle today the display went black and the oven shut off. 6 hours later my oven door still wont open. I called kitchen aid directly and they advised me to unplug the unit, but acted as if they had never heard of the problem. Well needless to say, with online research low and behold EVERYONE is having this problem! I cant see paying for the darn fuse every time I need to clean my oven. My husband decided to remove the fuse and connect the 2 black wires together that used to connect to the fuse and it worked! I am not sure it is safe to self clean, as this fuse will blow if there is chance of a fire. But at least my oven unlocked and my display is working! I am very disappointed with all of my kitchen aid appliances. I thought we were going high end in our new home in 2005, I will never buy from them again.
There is a design problem with certain model Whirlpool ranges where the thermal fuse blows during self-clean (auto-clean). This may be because of inadequate insulation, causing the outer panel to overheat. When the thermal fuse is replaced, the range will work, but it will blow the next time auto-clean is done. To safely work around the problem, the thermal fuse may be replaced with a thermostat, which will reset itself once the oven has partially cooled off. If the part number of the thermal fuse is 9759243, it will blow at 120 deg C (248 deg F). This can be replaced to a Selco Part# SES-L250 thermostat. The terminals are perpendicular (90 degress), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel.
Specs:
Surface Mount
3/4 in. disc
120/240 VAC
25 A
SPDT
open on-rise (normally closed)
open (cut-out): 250 deg F
close (cut-in): 220 deg F
temperature differential: 40 deg F
Info: http://catalog.selcoproducts.com/item/3-4-disc-thermostats/surface-mount-automatic-reset-open-on-rise/pn-5113?&seo=110
Available: Selco distributors: http://www.selcoproducts.com/distributors.php
and online at
Allied Electronics http://www.alliedelec.com
If the Selco SES-L250 'surface mount' thermostat is not available, an 'airstream type' thermostat can be used with a few differences:
1) I recommend to replace it to a 240 or 230 deg F thermostat. The reason for the lower cut-out temperature is that an 'airstream mount' thermostat will not be flush with the back panel, as is the original 250 deg F 'surface mount' one, so it may cut-out at a higher (unsafe) temperature.
2) I recommend to add Heat-sink compound between the thermostat and the sheet metal. This is used for computer processors and is available at computer and electronic component stores.
3) An 'airstream type' thermostat is thicker than the original 'surface mount' one, so longer screws will have to be obtained. The sheet metal tabs on the thermostat will bend slightly when installing.
4) The terminals are perpendicular (90 degress), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel.
Recommended 'airstream type' thermostats:
Supco L240
Info: http://www.supco.com/images/pdfs/2009%20HVAC%20Caralog/2009%20Catalog%20for%20Web2.pdf
Available: http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/applianceshvac/supco/crossref/thermostats2.html
Selco SE-L240
Info: http://catalog.selcoproducts.com/item/3-4-disc-thermostats/ts-3-4-disc-se-series-airstream-mount-open-on-rise/pn-5096?&seo=110
White-Rodgers 3L01-230
Info: http://www.white-rodgers.com/wrdhom/pdfs/06_Cat_pages/Cat_06_pg0092.pdf
General Electric LS2-240
White-Rodgers 3L01-230
Available: eBay store: Store: Patriot-Supply
3L01-230
this product is listed at 10a , is this ok as you said it should be 25a , please reply
As can be seen in the White-Rodgers pdf spec sheet with with web link above, the 3L01-230 is rated at 10A for a motor at full load and 25A for resistive (non-inductive) load. An oven element is a resistive load, so this limit control can be used safely up to 25A.
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Solution #3 was very helpful. Took off the back panel and found the small black fuse. Removed the fuse and joined the two black wires, oven now turns on and oven door opens. Don't think it would be to safe to leave like this but going to get the part and put the fuse back in myself. Very easy to fix (just a million screws) so save yourself the expensive service charge!!!!
This just happened to my range exactly as explained. January 2011. I've have the range for over 5 years now, and it's lived through several self-cleanings, but thinking back they were only the 1.5 or 2 hour "quick cleanings". Today's attempt was a 3-hour medium clean, and it was dead before it was done. Freaked me out because the door was stuck locked, and all the electronic buttons were dead. Until I got onto the internet and found this discussion, it all made sense. Thank you to all that have carried on this discussion. I just wanted to jump in and confirm that this is TOTALLY correct information. I've already gone into the back of the stove (it's the main metal panel with the round fan extrusion sticking out of it that must come off) after a few screws and smaller panels off, you get right to the wiring. You can't miss the thermal fuse - it's right there screwed against the metal backwall of the oven lining. Right now I just jumpered it so I can cook. I have the Selco SES-L250 part ordered as recommended above. Simply google "Selco SES-L250" and you'll find places that sell it. Around $13 plus shipping. It's not a fuse! It's a thermal switch. Then if it kicks out, it comes back after it drops 40 degrees from the original breaking temp. Keep the safety, but lose the disposable nature of the original part. I only cook at 375 maximum for 99% of my meals, so I can handle the temporary jumper until the Selco SES-L250 gets here soon enough. Thanks again everyone.
Same problem here had it fixed Jan.2010 for $338.00 now tried a quck clean yesterday and oven is dead again. Not locked as I dissabled the lock because everytime the power went out my oven would lock. Would never puchase a Kitchaide stove again. trying to decide to fix or replace mine is 7years old now.
Thanks for the help. You just saved me $200-$300. Cheapest i could find the part was at overnitesupply.com for $35. Obviously Kitchen Aid knows about the problem. No more self cleaning cycle for me.
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This just happened to my stove last week. Still cannot use the oven This stove is only a year and half old I phoned kitchen aid with little help' They insisted on getting a number from the door.......The door is locked how am I supposed to do that. There solution send a repair man.' I am very frustarted and hope to be able to solve this problem on my own. Any suggestions. Also, are the part numbers the same in Canada . Thank you
i am very interested in being involved in a class action law suit against Kitchen AId
here is my email [email protected]
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I agree but KitchenAid does not. Others have said that
Apparently there is an updated kit for repair, part number 9759243 which should be available free of charge but KA says it is out of warranty, this is not the correct part and will not repalce it for free. They want $50 for part #8300802. What a rip off. Everyone should call and srite to complain
Kitchen Air
553 Benson Road
Bebton Harbor, MI 49022
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