Door speakers and tweeters and cuttign off

Assuming you do not have factory tweeters then either is acceptable. Use whichever is easier to get to...door speakers if mounting tweeters on door or cd player if mounting on dash.

Hi candy Love , I love that name ! What Altima ? S ,SE or SL

AUDIO

Revision: May 2004 2002 Altima

AUDIO PFP:28111

System Description EKS002KQ

BASE AND MIDLINE SYSTEM

Refer to Owner's Manual for audio system operating instructions.

Power is supplied at all times

through 15A fuse [No. 31, located in the fuse and fusible link box]

to audio unit terminal 6.

With the ignition switch in the ACC or ON position, power is supplied

through 10A fuse [No. 6, located in the fuse block (J/B)]

to audio unit terminal 10.

Ground is supplied through the case of the audio unit.

Audio signals are supplied

through audio unit terminals 1, 2, 3, 4, 13, 14, 15, and 16

to terminals + and - of front door speaker LH and RH

to terminals + and - of rear door speaker LH and RH

to terminals + and - of tweeter LH and RH.

BOSE® SYSTEM

Refer to Owner's Manual for audio system operating instructions.

Power is supplied at all times

through 15A fuse [No. 31, located in the fuse and fusible link box]

to audio unit terminal 6, and

to Bose speaker amp. terminal 1.

With the ignition switch in the ACC or ON position, power is supplied

through 10A fuse [No. 6, located in the fuse block (J/B)]

to audio unit terminal 10.

Ground is supplied through the case of the audio unit.

Ground is also supplied

to speaker amp. terminal 17

through body ground B117.

Audio signals are supplied

through audio unit terminals 1, 2, 3, 4, 13, 14, 15, and 16

to speaker amp. terminals 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, and 30.

Audio signals are amplified by the speaker amp.

The amplified audio signals are supplied

through speaker amp. terminals 2, 3, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, and 19

to terminals + and - of front door speaker LH and RH

to terminals + and - of rear door speaker LH and RH

to terminals + and - of tweeter LH and RH

to terminals + and - of subwoofer LH and RH.

SPEED DEPENDENT VOLUME CONTROL (MIDLINE SYSTEM AND BOSE SYSTEM)

If activated, the radio output volume will be automatically adjusted to compensate for increased driving noises

at higher driving speeds.
The radio receives a vehicle speed signal from the combination meter, and selects the output volume.

The amp is going into protect on the two channels powering the speakers. Turn down the gain on those two channels. You also may want to consider crossing over the speakers a little higher than they are now.

The rating on those speakers are way too high. 6.5's and 6x9's will take 50-100 clean watts tops before they start to break up.

The best solution to get it perfect is....unplug the subs. Turn the gain on the speaker channels all the way down. Then turn up the deck 80% as high as it will go. Play a song. Then increase the gain on the amp until the speakers are as load as they go without distortion. Shut off the car, replugg in the subs and do the same thing. Gain on sub channels all the way down, deck then to 80%, find a bass heavy song, then turn gain up until subs become distorted. If you do this procedure your speakers and subs will be "gain matched" to the proper levels.

Good Luck

Hello.. the tweeters in the doors are 1 inch tweeters, but they have a large housing. Every set that I have come across are usually hanging because the 2 plastic nipples that go through the panel break off. They have a self-threading bolt on the back and they all eventually come off. You can rotate the tweeter slightly and run a panhead screw with a stinger tip to keep them up. If you are adding a pair of tweeters, just leave those in the door panel and just remove the metal grille that covers the speakers and add them next to the factory ones. You can just wire them in with the factory wiring. Just be sure to wire it on the door panel clip side so you can remove the door panel without having to cut the wires every time. You will have to remove the panel to gain access to removing the metal grille on the panel. Hope this helps! Good luck with your venture!

20 year car audio/video installer
Bay manager

There is a polyswitch in series with the tweeter. when it gets hot from lots of current running through it, it goes high resistance, attenuating current to the tweeter.
Remove and bypass the polyswitch if this annoys you, but then you risk blowing the tweeter if you run it too loud!

Connect the wires of the speaker to a 1.5 volt battery. Plus wire to plus terminal of the battery etc... Only let it touch the battery for a short time! You should hear a pop from the speaker! Put your ear close to the tweeter and see if does the same. If It doesn't, go inside the speaker and connect the battery direct to the tweeter (disconnect it from the crossover unit that feeds it). If it still doesn't pop it's gone and you will need to replace it. If it does it's the crossover that is faulty.
Tweeters are the first to go when the amp is at high volume. So make certain that the speakers don't have a lower wattage than the amp. If they have you must never turn up the volume very high or you will lose the speaker again.

only if they have a crossover attached if you dont they will blow up!

I figured out the problem, the front right tweeter wire was pinched behind the mounting bracket. everything is now working perfectly.

I found that they can hold up to 6 1/2" speakers and 2" tweeters. I'm not sure the specific mounting depth but i can almost assure you there wont be any 6 1/2" speakers that require a whole lotta space

Turn on the HPF it will definatly clear up the sound.