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This is an indication that the MOSFETs are ok but the driver stages may have a problem. Get a schematic find the pre-amp stages and test the voltages levels there as compared to the schematic. I do believe that you will find the problem in the pre-driver pre-amp atages.
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Humming from subs? If from inside amp, your experiencing a problem with a driver board. It makes transistors latch on and loads down the transformer, causing light to come on. And vibrations "hum" from transformer.
I think you might have your remote turn on from your deck to amp hooked up wrong check that out!! I not are you familliar with the mr. butterworth crossover JL developed for that series of amp? Just like its big nrother the 1000x1 class D the built in smart crossover has many built in pretect modes. If your subs are drawing to much power it shuts down if they draw to little of ohms or to many but that 500 is 1 ohm stable so download the crossover settings from JL and go from there
hook up the remote wire ( or make sure its hooked up good) check your ground! ground wire not big enough awg wire and put on bare metal not more than 1 foot away from amp. bad ground will cause this.
Sounds like a bad rca connection. You need both rca jacks to be plugged in from your head unit, both left and right or you will not have full power you'll have half power to your sub/subs. Check your sub with a volt meter and see what it reads. Make sure if your head unit has a sub volume make sure it's turned up. Alot of people don't realize they have a seperate subwoofer volume on there deck and it's set to low, so check that. You could have bad rca cables. If all that is ruled out(best way by trying a different amp) the amp itself might be having problems. Don't think it would be in protect mode either. Let me know if you have'nt allready.
I would try running the subs in parallel. Pos to Pos Dual Voice, Neg to Neg Dual Voice. Then Run + to + stereo - to - stereo on both channels.
So you have + and - running to one channel and + and - running to the other channel.
Also your LPF filter could be set too high.
if its cutting off and right back on then check your ground and your power wire makes sure both are connected good and none of your fuse's are blown, either that or you got a wire hooked up backwards in the sub.. but my guess is that the sub is hooked up wrong... that sub should be hooked up in a series or in parallel,
ok if your running just one speaker, it should be hooked up like this and 2 speakers are a different way...
this is parallel :pos to pos , neg to neg, then one wire coming from pos on sub to pos on amp then neg on sub to neg on amp but bridge the amp on your amp should be 2 pos and 2 neg in two different channels take the pos off the sub into the pos on 1 channel and then the neg from sub to the neg on the other channel,
this is series : on the sub it will go pos to neg then the other neg and pos will go to the amp, but make sure the pos and neg r on different sides of the sub, dont hook them both to the same coil
if your need more help give me your email and ill send you a pic of how to do it...
if tghelight is green the power is there...but themost common problem s power return..meaning that you might have a bad ground. i wouldsuggest inspecting your ground cable..it should be 6awg minimum and make sure that its grounded to either the frame or negative battery terminal. nothing painted and nothing that doesnt eventually connect to the frame.
If all of your connections are correct you may have sustained damage to the driver amplifier that controls the subwoofer. If you have electronics experience and can get the schematic, you may want to trace the audio signal to see where it drops off. it is my guess that it will either a one of the pre-driver transistors, or at the main power driver MOSFET devices. In any event they will need replacing if they are bad. I don't they are bad because the light does not remain red so it might be on of the pre-driver transistors.
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