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The unit I'm working on has a 1 month old 8145-20ex and now the unit wont go into defrost - The compressor and the evap do not stop and the heaters do not energize. I'm thinking the defrost termination limit switch is bad. What is the easist way to check?

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Gene Haynes

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Copy following links:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Paragon-timers-and-manuals.html#8145
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/How-to-test-Paragon-8145-timer.pdf
8145-20 is 240Volt defrost timer.
The defrost cycle will not begin. This implies that trippers are not in place, or trippers are worn out.... or limit switch is stuck ON or solenoid inside timer has gone bad.
Test across terminal N to X for 240Volt. Because voltage here will stop defrost cycle by activating solenoid inside timer, but continuous voltage will also stop next defrost cycle from beginning. Disconnect wire on terminal X and see if defrost cycle will begin at next tripper. If defrost begins, then limit switch is bad.
Gene
h

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Posted on Aug 07, 2013

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1 Answer

Frigidaire Fridge (frt045gm) Not Cooling Well


Bonjour,
That's not a potentiometer you turned it's the defrost timer gear knob. What you were doing is aborting the defrost cycle and allowing frost or ice to build up on the freezer coils. It built up enough to clog the airflow and the temperature in the freezer started going up. The compressor seems to be operating normally.
Follow along through a defrost cycle
To start defrost the defrost timer stops the compressor and all fans. Next it turns on the defrost heater. This melts the ice/frost off the freezer coils. The water drips down the drain line to the drain pan under the unit. If the defrost heater raises the temperature too high the defrost termination thermostat turns the heaters off. When the defrost timer times out it turns off the heaters and turns the compressor and fans back on. If the drain line clogs with food the water does not drain out and when the compressor starts again the water freezes. If this keeps happening the ice gets higher and bigger until it clogs the coils and the freezer does not get cold. If the defrost termination thermostat turns off the defrost heaters too soon all the frost is not melted from the coils. And the coils soon clog and the freezer gets too warm. If the defrost heater is bad no frost gets melted off the coils and the airflow quickly gets clogged. No defrost usually means either a bad defrost timer, a clogged drain line, a bad defrost termination thermostat or bad defrost heater. You can take a chance and replace the defrost timer. If that's the only problem your back in business. OR
If the drain line is not stopped up you can try this.
Remove all food from freezer and refrigerator, open the doors and unplug the cord. Wait 24 hours for all the frost/ice to melt. Keep the doors wide open and the cord unplugged the whole time. If the drain pan fills with water that's a good sign that the drain line is not clogged. Empty the drain pan often to keep water off the floor. After 24 hours the drain line should have stopped dripping water. If it's still dripping wait until it stops. Plug the cord back in, close the doors and wait for 1/2 cup of water to turn to ice in the freezer. Then you can put the food back in. The problem will return if the unit is not defrosting. Changing a defrost timer is not too hard. Unplug the cord. Locate the defrost timer. Take out the mounting screws and remove the part. Unplug the wires, plug them into the new part and remount it. Don't forget the ground wire if it has one.
Plug the cord back in and see what happens. If you did not defrost the unit turn that timer knob very very very slowly until you hear the compressor stop. Then wait to see if the drain line is dripping water into the drain pan. If it is your in business. If not either the drain line is clogged, the defrost heater is burned out or the defrost termination thermostat is bad and has the defrost heater shut off.
OR Or you can call a service technician.

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1 Answer

GE GSH22KGM Frig not defrosting again


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This unit is not cooling, fridge or frezzer.All plugs are working and lights come on.


Compressor or compressor relay switch is bad. Pull the unit out from the wall, and with a multimeter check for voltage at the compressor and the switch which is located on the top of the compressor under the black box.

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1 Answer

My walk-in's ceiling panel is dripping


The coil in the conditioned space is called the evaporator.
If the water droplets are forming on the ceiling around the evap, it is due, most likely, to the defrost cycle being too long.
Defrost cycle: compressor stops, evap fans stop, electric heaters in the evap come on to clear any ice/ frost on evap fins/ coil.
The ice/ frost melts and some of it turns into vapor. As it hits the cold ceiling surface, it condensates into water droplets. Defrost cycle could be too long. Usually 4 time aday and no longer than 30 minutes should be enough unless there is high humidity.
There could be another cause.
Normally, after a defrost cycle terminates, the evap fans do not come on, due to a delay control. This prevents circulating warm are due to the heaters. The compressor comes on and cools the evap down to, usually 20 degrees or so, and then the fans come on. What could be happening is, the fans are coming on too early and blowing the water driplet off the evap and onto the back wall of the unit.
A third item, is to be sure that the condensate drain is "P" trapped. The prevents warm, outside air from being drawn in and causing exess frost build up, thus excess water and vapor.

Good luck and hope this helps

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1 Answer

Fridgidaire 18 cu new defrost timer and evap fan stil freezes


Did you replace the timer with the correct one for your refrigerator? If so you may need to check the defrost thermostat out.

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6 Answers

I have a True Freezer Model T-49. It works fine but every 3 or 4


This sounds like a stuck relay to me. I have seen this problem before. The defrost clock kills power to the compressor relay coil during defrost. If the contacts in the relay are welded together the compressor runs while unit is trying to defrost. On newer units this relay is mounted in base of unit on the side or back of the electrical box near center bottom of unit. The compressor relay is a small rectangular box with 4 wires attached. It can be replaced with a single pole 20 amp contactor with a 120 volt coil/ or 240 volt. Check the units name plate voltage rating and ratings on old relay! ;)

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1 Answer

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If this is a Bev-Air, don't think the door switch will control the fan. At the evap, there is a temp sensor called a fan delay. When unit goes into defrost mode, this warms up. Some also serve a dual purpose. It will terminate the defrost cycle at a certain temp., say 51 degrees or so, at the evap. Anyway, when unit comes out of defrost, it keeps the fan off so it allows the evap to cool quicker and to prevent circulating warm air. This could be your problem. Not a hard fix but they can be a pain sometimes. Outside chance that the unit is low on refrigerant (freon). This will not let the evap get cold enough to trip the sensor back into position to turn the fan on. Good Luck. Restaurant Parts and More carry alot of Bev-Air stuff. 1-888-814-1110. Ask for Rick

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4 Answers

Ice develops at back of fridge


hi chris
dave here hope i can help

I would test the defrost timer, defrost heater or defrost limit switch

TESTING AND REPLACING THE DEFROST TIMER
This timer activates the heater that melts frost in the evaporator for 10 to 20 minutes every 10 to 12 hours. In the process, it turns the compressor off and on. If it fails, the compressor may not run. Or the heater may not go on, eventually causing a hidden ice buildup that blocks the cold-air flow and disables the evaporator fan. An access hole lets you test the timer. If the timer isn't in the control panel, look behind the front grille or behind the rear access panel. If the compressor fails to run turn the timer until it clicks. If compressor goes on, timer is faulty. If unit isn't defrosting automatically and turning timer stops compressor or fan, timer is faulty.
Before replacing timer, spray it with electrical contact cleaner through access hole and turn it a few times. Stop just before a click and wait to see if timer advances on its own.
To replace timer, unplug the refrigerator and open control panel. Remove screws holding timer to panel and pull of leads. If wires aren't in a plug, move then one at a time to new timer.

EVAPORATOR AND DEFROST HEATER
In a frost-free unit, the evaporator coils, their fan, and the deforst heater are located behind the freezer's back wall or under its floor. The fan, which circulates cold air between the coils and the two food compartments, is controlled by the door switch, the thermostat, or both. To check the fan, open both doors, wait for the compressor to go on, and hold in the door switch. If you can't hear the fan running, test the fan(below).
The defrost heater, which melts frost on the coils, is cycled on by the defrost timer(above). If the frost melts before the end of the defrost cycle, the defrost limit switch turns the heater off. The heater may be a metal rod, a wire wrapped in foil, or a coil inside a glass tube. All are tested the same way. Test terminals for the heater are often located in the control panel or under a doorjamb; check the wiring diagram. Or test the heater leads inside the evaporator compartment.

TESTING THE EVAPORATOR FAN
To remove the evaporator fan, unplug unit; open back panel(or floor) of freezer. Then unscrew housing holding fan, and take off leads going to fan motor. With VOM(Volt-Ohm Meter) on RX1, probe motor terminals(except green ground wire terminal). Look for moderate resistance(50 to 200 ohms). Replace fan if much lower or infinity.

TESTING THE DEFROST HEATER
Open control panel. With VOM on RX1, probe test terminals. Look for 15-to 100-ohm reading. If infinity, turn defrost timer(as above); retest.

TESTING DEFROST LIMIT SWITCH
Trace and disconnect leads. With VOM on RX1, probe leads. Look for infinity reading when switch is warm, zero after 20 minutes in working freezer.

Hope this sources your problem
Thank you for using Fixya.com

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1 Answer

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1) Check the fan in the freezer is running

2) defrost the freezer (leave unpluged with door open for 24 to 48 hrs or untill it stops leaking water...


3) check the damper make sure it is opening and cold air is blowing

How you need to repair what defrost part failed
The defrost systems is:
218169802 HEATER-DEFROST
5303917954 THERMOSTAT-DEFROST
5303917954 TIMER-DEFROST

Start with the timer. It is just under the front kick plate. there is a knob you can turn it slowly.until it clicks off the compressor. then open the freezer and listen . You should hear the heater come on .. it will sizzle when it comes on ...
You will have to remove the back panel of the freezer to check the heater for and thermostat for continuity. Heater are the lease likely part to go bad... I always change thermostat and timers together.
let me know if this helps or we can chat if you need more help.

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1 Answer

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Hello ghilitho, what you are having is an issue with the defrost cycle. There are 3 parts to this, heater, thermosat,and timer. Sometimes on the newer units the timer is the electronic control. What you are seeing is after you defrost the unit, it works for a time, this is because the evap fan pushes the air thru the unit. With the evap coil froze solid, the cooling drops. You will need a ohm meter to check the heater and thermosat, the heater & thermosat should show to be closed. Also make sure if this unit has a over heat thermosat that it is closed. It may have open up. If all this is good, then the timer is the issue. Hope this helps

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