Replacing heating element in oven-connecting wires fell back in

Oven element - test the element for continuity and if no continuity replace it. They last 2 or 3 years.

Check the broiler element after replacing the oven element. It may be back feeding power through the inoperative oven controller (common returns).

Broiler element still the same? I would suspect the controller on the broiler rather than the element itself.

Image 5 shows the oven element and 6 shows the broiler element.

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Make sure to keep breaker to oven off because wire could short against back of oven and start a fire. You need to disconnect the tilt bracket and pull the oven out. Replace the clip on the wire if needed. Make sure to reattach tightly. Put it back in the wall, reattaching anti-tip bracket. It should work.

1.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
2.
3.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

1.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
2.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
3.
4.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

The heating element burned through -- it needs replacing. Turn off power to oven, remove two screws on heating element mount, pull heating element from wall of oven, remove two screws connecting electric leads to heating element. To install new element, reverse steps. Make sure screws connecting heating element to wires are very tight -- otherwise they will arc.

Charlie

To replace oven heat element follow the steps below carefully
Turn off the power to the oven at the breaker box.

Step 2 Take out the screws holding the element bracket in place. These will be on the back wall of the oven, or sometimes on the top.

Step 3 Pull the element toward you a little bit until you see the wires behind it.

Step 4 Unscrew the leads and take the bad element out.

Step 5 Hold the new element up while you attach the wires to it. Don't stretch the wires any more than you have to.

Step 6 Line up the element while tucking the wires back in. Be sure not to pinch the wires between the bracket and the back wall.

Step 7 Fasten the brackets, making sure they're tight.

Step 8 Restore power to the appliance.

basically to install the elements , place it in the same position as the old one. Connect it the same way the old one was connected, using the same screws to hold it in place. Just about all the other components of an electric range or oven

They probably are loose wired unless you see a porcelain receiver for them... it is CHEAPER so they do it! Maintainability? None !!!

With power disconnected, you MIGHT be able to "fish" the leads back out and attach before mounting the element.

Yes, you can use the Eaton Viking element in place of the Gibson element as long as all mountings are the same.
You should use ceramic washers between the element and the casing to prevent it from grounding out...which is what probably happened to the element in the first place.
Be sure to look for chapped or burnt wiring BEFORE replacing the element. Also look for burnt connectors.
Hope this help you! :)

hey sorry about that,as a repair man i hold on to those babies like crazy.almost all ovens i worked on [its many]the rear wall dose not come apart.if yours dose great go that way.but other wise yes you have to go thru the back.i would try fishing abit more before i pulled it out if was me.God bless,tom

I had same problem (twice) with my Viking dual fuel range. In my case a relay that supplies power to the oven heating elements failed. The convection fan would run. The elements were warm to the touch. If you have a free standing range, it may be that relay (part number PM010026) which is located in the front of the stove. Remove a long narrow stainless steel panel (1 screw each side) located under where the door hinges. You can hear the relay click when you turn up the oven thermostat. That will help you locate the relay.

Note: Viking does not sell parts. You have to find their parts distributor for your part of the country.