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Dear akwelectrica,
When a full kit was installed....WHAT was installed??? Were the OIl seals replaced?? Were the Low Pessure Seals Replaced?? Were the high Pressure Seals Replaced?? Was the OIL changed?? If the oil was changed...did all water in the oil compartment been removed?? Also did the suction and delivery valves were replaced?? Now if all these things were done, BUT the pistons were not changed, than the whole kit was done for nothing!! My suspicion is that the PISTONS were not changed. But if all the kit was used and even the PISTONS were changed, than you must for sure have a cracked or damaged head. When I say the HEAD...I am always refering to the part that holds the pistons. But in rare circumstances even the outer head could be damaged. Ask your "Service Tech" what he replaced and you will know the answear. As I said..I suspect that the PISTONS were not replaced by New Ones.
Regards,
fulltech.
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In my experience with karcher, and other brands, you will be money ahead to replace the pump entirely. Pumps usually cost around $125. There are some times rebuild kits available, but they will often cost over half the amount of an entire pump. Add to that the unloader valve, & you will be way past the cost of a new pump.
Usually indicates that water is leaking past piston seals into oil of crankcase. Remove oil plug and check for gray foamy oil in crankcase. If oil looks normal (compare to motor oil) oil may be entering pump chamber (not very likely due to high pressure, generally water will be forced into crankcase). If foamy oil is found, time for reseal kit or replace complete pump.
I would have to agree with your service department. The unloader valve works like this, When you press the trigger it closes and allows the water to build pressure through the pump. When you let off the trigger the valve opens and by-passes the water through the pump so you don't damge the pump. If this valve is sticking and remaining open the pressure will not build. You can remove this valve and clean relubricate with white lithium grease just a coating and this should clear up your problem. Check the port that the valve sits in and if you see gunk just clean with carburetor cleaner and blow it out with air compressor. A new unloader valve can cost between $40.00 - $60.00. Try to clean first before you buy a new one. The valve is usually located near the outlet that you connect your pressure hose to. If you can't find it go to jackssmallenginerepair.com and do a parts look up for your machine and you will see where this valve is located. Hope this helps.
Most likely problem is that the tip is too small causing Unloader to bypass or restriction/debris in tip. Install clean tip of proper size or 1/2 size larger (example from 2.5 gpm to 3 gpm ) to prevent slow pulse. If tip is clean and /or larger tip does not help, Unloader may be failing if the unit has a good deal of hours or if machine is left running for long periods of time without spraying. Try lubing the internal parts by removing both hoses and installing a short piece of water hose to intake and slowly inject light oil into pump by pulling on the rope slowly to **** in the oil until it comes out the pressure side. This will displace all the water from inside the pump. Leave overnite. There is a kit sold on ebay to help facilitate the infusion of oil but no need to get fancy. Unloader repair kit is usually available if all else fails and is easy to install. Good holidays
You need to remove the pump and sit it brass side up before removing the bolts holding the brass to the aluminum part (you have to do it that way so the oil doesn't spill out.) CAUTION: there is some spring tension on the brass head.
Take the brass head off and set to the side on a rag or in a bucket. Dump out whatever oil is in the oil side, making sure not to drop the swash plate or bearing (the pieces sitting in the oil). Fill the oil end with aproximatly 4.5 ounces of Karcher pump oil, (or just 20w 50 weight non-detergent oil). Put the brass head back on and tighten bolts. Put the pump back on the machine.
Sounds like the pistons in the pump are frozen up or there has been some damage to the pump, like water left in the pump that froze. It could have cracked a part of the pump. Not knowing what pump is on the unit, whether it is horizontal or vertical pump. If it is a vertical pump, most require a pump replacement. If it is a horizontal pump you may be able to find a rebuild kit for it. You can use a 30w oil in the pump and it does not need to be full, about 1/4 " form the top is fine.
were your hose hock's up their should be a screen there ,that comes out, also check for calcium build up (white) check your won to make sure its not plugging, and your tip. a little tip, under low pressure use your soap pick up tube and put it in a gouge of vinegar. this will help brake up the calcium. when storing do the same and us RV antifreeze. hope this helps
I would check the first one first as this is the most common problem. The water supply hose should be a high volume hose of at least 1/2 inch but 5/8 inch or greater is best.
Difficult to know from here, check all the screws see if there was a required strenght on some of the screws. You should take it apart and assemble again.
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