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Most small 'consumer grade' or 'department store' telescopes use 0.9 inch diameter eyepieces. Better quality ones use 1.25 or 2.0 inch. Any image erector which will fit in the appropriate size focuser will probably be fine. Just select the image erector based on the eyepiece barrel diameter (0.9", 1.25" or 2.0").
this is all i could find from the internet.
( Put the eyepiece with the largest number written on it into the focuser. ... Turn the focus knob back and forth slowly until the image is in sharp focus.)
as you say you have the manual so no point it sending you to that link.
so go to this link and see if it helps.
Never heard of this telescope. However take it outside during the day time and practice focusing on a distant object. Put the eyepiece with the largest number written on it into the focuser. DO NOT use the 2x barlow if you have one. Turn the focus knob left and or right until you get a sharp image in the eyepiece.
The power of the scope will be the focal length of the main objective (yours is 800mm) divided by the focal length of the eyepiece, so a 9mm eyepiece will give a higher magnification (and be dimmer and harder to focus and find objects) than a 20mm eyepiece. It is usual to have two or three different focal length eyepieces for viewing different objects.
Starting out, you want to use the lowest power, so the highest number, eyepiece. Do NOT use the Barlow lens if one came with the scope. Try it out during the day (but never point a telescope anywhere near the Sun). This will make it easier to find the focus point. There is a very wide range of movement in the focus mechanism, because different eyepieces focus at different points, but the actual focus range for any eyepiece will be a small part of the overall range afforded by the focusing mount.
It is unlikely that the finder scope will be much use in pointing the telescope until you adjust it to precisely line up with the main scope. Most manuals recommend that you do this in daylight, by pointing the scope at an object on the horizon and adjusting the finder to match. Once you have a tree or mountain peak in the center of the main scopes image, you can then adjust the screws around the finder scope to get the crosshairs centered on the same object. It is very difficult to do this job in the dark, especially as objects in the sky are constantly on the move.
Remember that astronomical telescopes usually show an upside down image. There is a good reason for this- erecting the image needs more bits of glass in the light path, which reduces the amount of light and increases aberrations. Even if this is only slight, astronomers prefer to avoid it, and they don't really care which way up the Moon or Jupiter appear. It is possible to fit an erecting prism or eyepiece to most astronomical telescopes, and some of them come with one.
Did you put an EYEPIECE into the focuser? Probably NOT.
Take the scope out in the day time, put the eyepiece with the largest number written on it into the focuser. Practice focusing on a distant object. TURN the focuser knob slowly until the object comes into sharp focus.
Difficult to answer specifically without knowing the model. But binoculars are designed to view objects in the distance. They all have a limit as to how close they will focus based on the magnification and design. Objective lenses that are far apart such as on a porro prism binocular will not focus very close. The nature of the design of having the objectives further apart than the eyepieces doesn't allow it. When trying to focus too close the image will appear blurred and double. That is the nature of the design. 9 feet or 3 metres is considered quite close to focus a binocular and is usually for a model designed to do this such as a roof prism where the objective lens and the eye lenses are inline. A specialty binocular such as the Pentax Papilo will close focus to 50 centimeters. It has been designed so that the objective (large lenses) lenses converge.
Take into account when focusing that binoculars are also designed to compensate for differences in each eye. One of the eyepieces either right or left will adjust seperately. For binoculars with a center focus ring. First focus using the center ring with one eye covered. The eye that should be covered is the one that doesn't have the adjusting eyepiece. When the image is clear close the eye you have just used and leave the center focus alone. Focusing on the same spot look through the eyepiece that adjusts and turn the eyepiece ring until the image is clear. Now all you have to do is focus using the center ring only as the binoculars are adjusted for each eye.
Some binoculars do not have a center focus and each eye will adjust seperately.
Most telescopes do not have a zoom-- they have different numbered eyepieces that give different magnification-- you can buy a zoom eyepiece however.
From what you describe -- put the eyepiece with the LARGEST number written on it into the telescope-- this is the LOWEST magnification. Now focus on the moon and or a distant land object during the day-- once it's in focus -- nice and sharp-- replace the eyepiece with the next LOWER number-- for more magnification. AND-- refocus the telescope for that eyepiece.
Turn the scope backwards and point the tail towards the daylight sky. My guess is you will see light. If you see a fish eye like view of the world then point the scope at a distant scene and wait until night. Sometime trying to use too much magnifation makes it hard to find and focus on night time objects.
If the fish eyeview looks twisted then my guess would be a lens element has become un mounted. Most likely it will be in the eyepiece but if this is a spotting scope it could be in the image erector lens bundle. I had a Vvitar that dropped a bundle in the zoom eyepiece when the zoom was twisted too far. The little screw that held the bundle in aligment was sheared off and had to be replaced. Obtain the small screws from a camera store.
The distance between the centers of the eyepieces of your binocular must be the same as the distance between your pupils. This distance is adjusted as follows:
1. Focus on a distant object.
2. Pivot the two halves of your binocular farther or closer apart until you can see a single unobstructed, circular field of view.
Make sure to focus on a distant object when you do this because when you focus on a close object you always see two slightly overlapping circular fields.
Your binocular may have a scale on the top, between the eyepieces, to help you remember this setting.