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I'm using that Alpine right now for 2-12" subs and I have compared it to 6 or 7 other amps this month and most were 4 channel 150Watt/Channel Bridged to 300Watts x 2 and found the Alpine to be superior in both sound quality and loudness. The Alpine has also not turned off even with full volume for hours at a time, Very solid amp I was very surprised due to it's size!
Yes your amplifier is stable @ 2OHM but only in stereo mode.
If you are running the amplifier in BRIDGE mode then the amplifier is stable only @ 4OHM. So if you are running a sub woofer and it requires a 2 Ohm mono load then the amplifier has either been damaged or is trying to protect itself from the wrong OHM load. You could also make sure that your GND is secured properly, as some times it could come lose from vibration and not offer a decent ground for the system.
Make sure there's no missmatched impedance. If your sub running 2 ohms then your amp has to be 2 ohms stable. Does the amp blow fuses or get really hot? If it does it can be a fire hazard and I would recommend taking it out of your car. It could be that you don't have sufficient grounding. The grounding needs to be very close to the amp and the paint needs to be thoroughly scratched off. Otherwise could be a blown transistor within the amplifier, you can check this by opening up the amp, running a multimeter and testing the transistors for resistance.
When speakers are wired in the wrong way the will do the "pushing out" you're describing. Basically the polarities have been reversed and if kept like this over a period of time will blow the speaker. Best thing to do is to disconnect the power by the negative on the amp and take out the fuse from the power supply. Check the wires running from the amp to the subs, negative to negative and positive to positive. I know it sounds basic but many people do mix it up! I would also check to see what channels the subs have been wired into?
Best way is to have one sub from channel 1 and the other sub from channel 2 for example. Or if its a bridged 4 channel amp, have 1 sub running from channel 1&2, and the second sub running from channel 3&4 still making sure of the polarities. Again this all depending what kind of amp and sub you have.
A 4 channel (bridged) 1000W amp. 250W max per channel or 500W per 2 channels! So if you have 2 500W subs, by connecting one to a single channel will decrease subs ability due to the lack of power supplied. However by combining 2 channels you optimize the output!
Once you know all your wiring from your amp to subs are ok/good connections/good wires etc you shouldnt have to "wiggle the wires" to get it to work as this is just a bad connection. Also ensure that no 2 wires are touching. Make sure that the master volume on the amp is turned down. You dont need this to be on loud at all, in fact far from it or you'll risk damaging both the amp and subs!
Make sure your speaker wiring does not come close to the 12v power cable running for your amplifier. If your amplifier's 12v power cable runs on the drivers side of the vehicle, run your speaker cables on the passengers side and make sure your tweeters have a high pass filter to stop any pickup of engine sound (When you are driving you *WILL* notice it at high RPM. a HPF (High Pass Filter) will also stop those nasty hissing sounds on S's.
As i read your problem i can recommend you that connecting each of the hifonics amp to each hifonics sub with the same specs by getting the specs in interfacing the two or you can simply look to the output of the amp and the input of the sub and find a suitable plug that fits to them.
In the case if you want to run each hamp to individually run each sub but sharing 3 farad capacitor: what i can suggest is that you connect in parallel one connecting wire of each input or ouput of the amp or sub. Its like connecting a connector from each of the input or output of the amp or sub to one leg of the capacitor, and connecting two wires to the other leg, one is being connected to the amp or sub and the other wire is connected to the other amp or sub.
In the case of putting a circuit breaker at the car battery: what i can suggest is that you find an appropriate circuit breaker that fits the specs of the car battery then connect it in series on the positive supply or read the specs of the circuit breaker before you connect it to the battery. Having a circuit breaker is like having a fuse but with special advantages in favor of the circuit breaker.
In the case of having power to the amps you can run one power wire to the amps by dividing the power wire into two, one connected to the amp and the other wire to the other amp. Then you can connect each amp and sub in series individually by connecting one wire b/w amp and sub. I hope i solved your problem
Its probably your wiring harness that came with the stereo. Which can cause many more problems. alpine changed their wiring harness around that time. But they used the same plug, just wired different. So now there are crossed wires, but the plug fits, causing the amp chip to fry. maybe even further than the amp chip. an amp chip replacement runs about 80$ at a repair shop. if its just that.
This is a sign the you have poor voltage regulation. Which may mean that you are taxing the electrical system of your vehicle. I would suggest you adding a secondary electrical supply for you audio system. This can be done by adding an extra alternator and voltage regulator and battery supply. This will allow you to drive your audio system without having it (power supply) split between the vehicle and the audio system. The fact is your system is drawing to much current for the unit and your vehicle. You are blowing the 20-amp fuses which means the the amp is creating a currnet draw which is past the rated value of the fuses, which if done too many times could damage the power amp components in the unit. I would also check the ohmage reating on the speakers connect to the unit since you may have the wrong impedance which may also cause excessive current draw and actuate some sort of overcurrent protection.
When you say you connected the blue and white wire to the amp power do you mean the remote turn on of the amp and not the terminal/wire marked battery or power? You should not be trying to power your amp with the blue and white wire. This wire is only for sending a signal(+12V) to the amp to turn itself on. the amp should have it own fused wire of appropriate gauge running directly to the batttery.
Some more details on the installation would be helpful.