How to open case of Acoustimass module

Probable power supply fault now. Maybe if you replaced the power board it might work again.

Chamberlain Liftmaster garage door opener problems ...

? 3:10
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zq_CxeTXoSM
Jul 2, 2013 - Uploaded by Mike McCarron
Might have taken a lightening strike, knocked out GFCI that was on the circuit that garage door opener was on. When I ... And sometimes after it happens it takes 30 or so seconds before the opener will work again. ... The keypad unit worked well butneither the homelink or the remote units worked.

Garage Door Openers - Lightning Strike - Forum - Bob Vila

www.bobvila.com/posts/30883-garage-door-openers-lightning-strike?...

Aug 6, 2005 - The house did not lose power and I do not believe the house was actually hit. ... the light comes on on the unit (as expected), but neither door opens or ... Afterplugging it back in, try opening the door with the hardwired button first - if it still doesn'twork, chances are your opener's taken some damage but not ...

I Have A Liftmaster Garage Door Opener Unit. The Remote Work ...

www.diyforums.net/i-have-a-liftmaster-garage-door-opener-unit.-the-re.

Hello
It can't predict what may have wrong with your TV; becuse the lightning stroke will have trillions of volts when it strike the earth. Even its near presence will spoil the power supply section of any equipements. There is surely a fuse inside it, and you can check after opening the TV. Check it first. If it is burned, make a visual check inside the components of the TV for a burned damaged if any. If you find any of it, please do not put an other fuse and make an experiment with the TV. it may cause more components to be damaged. If no visual burned componets are seen, just put a fuse of same ratings [ratings will be either printed on its rims or indicated by colour bands across it]. If the replaced fuse again gets burned as the set is switched ON, make sure that some components in the power supply is shorted, and a through checkup should be done. Contact any experienced service technician to do the work. OK.

it needs a drivers door master window switch....its a module not just a switch.......very common..

First try plugging the receiver into an outlet that is known to work. If it still does not work, look at the following:

Hopefully there is a fuse on your receiver that is blown. 2 options before it needs to be repaired by a professional:

1. Look on the back for any type of fusing house. It would be labeled "Fuse" and they are commonly held in by what looks to be a flat head screw.
2. If there is no fuse on the back of the unit, it is very possible that there is an internal fuse. Open the chassis, and carefully look for a fuse. It usually is about 1/4"diameter cylinder that is about an inch long. IF you are unfamiliar with electronics, it may be wise to skip the opening of your receiver.

Lightning Strikes can do a lot of damage. Hopefully its a blown fuse.

Well, I don't think that disconnecting the garage door from the garage door opener would affect function.

The lightning strike could have destroyed the circuitry inside the garage door opener, seeing that it won't operate with the wall switch or remotes.

It's likely that a board was fried by the lightning which would render the garage door inoperable.

Bose does not release their schematic diagrams or parts lists, so factory maintenance is about the only way to go. You can start the process by visiting www.Bose.com, but be ready for some sticker shock. Before you do anything though, every Bose has a line fuse inside the case. The location varies by model and date of manufacture, but if you open the case it will be simple to locate. Check it, and replace it if necessary. The fuse is there to safeguard electronics against power surges, so it is your likely culprit.

Bill B

Hiya,

When you say that your fridge/ white goods appliance was damaged by high voltage, we need to exactly what the voltage source was that did the deed.

If you are talking about a bigger voltage input source, from the mains suupply, then it is likely you would have had a fuse within the plug that would have blown. This should be the first thing you will check regardless of the voltage.

If however, you are telling me that your house took an in-direct or worse still a direct whack from a lightning strike, then my dear friend you have quite possibly a totally deceased appliance. For a start, such a strike could melt your plug and possibly socket. The fuse inside the plug wouldnt be a relevant factor here; because if the lightning made it from the sky to the ground, I am sure it can cross a 40mm gap within a plug. Then the lightning surge would simply travel up the power cord, knock out your gas pump, stepdown transformer and any lights or motors within the appliance. The cost of changing every part here is not worth it. You would be better off claiming on insurance or simply buying new.

there are a few ways you can investigate what has caused this, and possibly cure the fault, unless it is a lightning strike of course that is responsibe.

The first thing to do here is dismantle the mains electricity plug that is attached to the fridge. Check the small fuse inside this to see if it is functioning. You can do this in many ways. The best I find is to get a multimeter or the appropriate tester and perform a continuity test. See this link below

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuity_test

If the fuse is broken, then change it and repeat the test; YOU MUST replace the fuse with what the original one from the manufacturer was.

If the fuse is working, then your fault is elsewhere and you will need to perform the above tests on various components relevant to your fridge.

The worst case scenarioo is the lightning strike; and in order to identify this, you will need to do one or two simple things.

Firstly, head to your main consumer unit (fusebox) and check that all of the fuses are in the "closed" or "on" position. Open fuses indicate a power surge or a short circuuit somewhere on your supply, but relevant to your fridge. RCD circuit breakers all narrow down the searching to one localised area. You should also do this test for identification of original fault.. The same for when you as above check your main fuses.

If the fuses on the consumer unit are "open", then either replace them if you have to, or you simply either push them back in or move them to the "closed" position. Also check that the consumer unit is not damaged in any way, as you would expect from having too much electricity put through it. Fire damage, warping, blackening, discoluration, bent or broken components are all good indicators of this.

Another test you may have to do, is simply look around your house. Has anything else been effected. If it has, then it is likely that it was a lightning strike or something equally as damaging, if no, then it could simply have been a power surge that only really effected your fridge. Even so, is any of your other electronic and white goods items behaving oddly? TV menu keeps appearing or going into standby? Is the lights on your DVD player behaving erratic or does discs keep being ejected at atrange times? What about your computer or laptop; do these strangely start playing up? If so, then either the lightning strike is to blame or you have had a powersurge.

Once you have done theseinvestigations please let me know the outcome and if it is negative, Iwill gladly advise you further.

I look forward to hearing from you soon and hopethis is the fixya for you;

Yours sincerely

Oz

remove the screws that hold the amplifier block to the speaker.the fuses are in the amplifier inside

It is common for a short term power surge to open up the internal fuse in the main power transformer. Without testing some components inside the unit, I really can't say for sure whether or not the unit is worth repair. I would suggest that you invest in a detailed repair estimate at an authorized Onkyo service center.

Keep us posted.

Dan