It seems there is a problem with the washer spinning. When I start the washer, water comes out but it doesn't spin anymore. The motor makes a noise like it wants to spin and then the sign "LE" comes out on the display. I took the back off and when I assist the motor in spinning, it will spin but then it stops again. I have a LG WM2077 front loader. Any suggestions? Thank you for your help!
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OK....I am here to RESCUE you...1st, DON"T do that anymore! You will get wet! LOL. Simple solution. You need a New Drain Pump replaced and installed. Once that is done. I do NOT want to hear about you going down there anymore and doing....That! LOL...
Your machine will be happy and spin.and drain all day Long!
There is a flap inside of the washer that comes up as the washer begins to spin...Just replace that valve and everything should be fine. As long as its spinning and washing you will not need to get a new one :)
Unplug the electric power cord. Disconnect the hoses and pull out the drain hose. Move the washer to a convenient location where you can work on the front and the back of it No washer will spin when the lid is up. If the lid is down and it still wont spin, the first thing to check is the lid switch. If it's bad, the washer will think the lid is up all the time. You'll need to remove the front panel of the washer to see it.
Find the clips that hold the front of the washer on. They are on the front, about 3 inches from the sides. If you shine a light into the crack, you will be able to see these clips.
Insert a putty knife, pressing on the clips to release them. Then remove the front panel. Find the lid switch. Mine was on the right side. Make a note of the color of the wires that go to the lid switch. Remove the back panel at the top of the washer where the timer and other controls are located. I needed a nut driver and a torx screwdriver. Inside the back of the head unit, find the wires that come from the lid switch. Disconnect the white plug the wires go into. Attach a volt meter to the end of the plug that comes from the lid switch. Set the meter to measure resistance or continuity. This means when the wires of the volt meter are touched together it beeps or shows a value of zero. Open and close the lid. If the readout on the meter doesn't change at all, then the lid switch is faulty. Replace it and the washer will now spin. If the lid switch is OK, go on to the next step. Washers pump out all the water first, and then start spinning. If the water level switch is bad, the washer will think there is still water in the tub and refuse to spin. From the front of the washer, locate the clear plastic hose on the left side. This goes to the water level switch. Disconnect the hose by pulling upwards. Clean any junk out of the hose. On my washer, this clear plastic tube had some lint in it. By sucking on the tube at the front of the washer, I was able to remove it and the washer then worked perfectly. If this doesn't work for you, continue to the next step. From the back of the washer, locate the water level switch on the right side. Disconnect the plug and attach your volt meter to the wires that come from the switch. Blow into the end of the hose you disconnected at the front of the washer and see if the meter changes. You should hear a clicking sound as you repeatedly blow into the tube. If the meter doesn't change at all, then the water level switch is bad. Replace it and you washer should spin correctly. If you are certain the lid and water level switches are OK, and the water level tube is not clogged. Then the problem is either the clutch or the motor
see the causes and use the common sense, God bless you. If your washer won't drain, check these:It spins, but doesn't pump It doesn't spin or pumpIt pumps, but the water returnsIt spins, but doesn't pumpIf
your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is
probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of
clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds
the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into
the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump
itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump
and pull the item out.To
remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access
panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump
to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to
grab and remove the clothing through the port. Sometimes
you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove
the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This
isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be
happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.If
the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even
if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken.
If so, you need to replace the pump.It doesn't spin or pumpIf
your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running,
your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to
replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer
and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if
it's frozen or stiff--replace it. It pumps, but the water returnsIf
the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine
after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a
laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual
remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is
something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess. If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.
If it doesn't fill it won't start any other cycle unless you move it ahead yourself. If it hums I am thinking it is trying to fill. Sounds like the valve is turning on to let water in but it is not getting through. My washer has a screen where the hoses go on and sometimes the screen becomes plugging with scale. If that is ok then the solenoid must be coming on but the valve is stuck. Does neither hot or cold settings work? Please rate my answer so I am rewarded points for it.
Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.NF means its not filling. If its the cold valve that's bad the unit will not spin.Check to make sure the water is turned on. If it is the humming you hear is most likely from the valve that is not opening to allow in water. depending on the series this could have two separate valve Assembly's
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..
problem started when washer started itself up twice in the middle of the night....after that the washer seems to have problems figuring out what it wants to do...when running a wash it will start, run for 2 minutes then start scanning numbers...it does not land on a code...it will spin, stop, start...sears has replaced the mother board 3 times....and we will be phoning them again as it has not fixed the problem..one other time it did not spin properly and clothes were wet...we have a dedicated surge protector on it...we have had our electrical checked and no problems there...sears confirmed that as well..the techs have given up on it and don't know what to do with anymore...it is still under warranty and now costing sears more to service it then replace it....time for them to do the right thing and "take it back"...very disappointed in this washer...wish me luck when i call them again...they must be sick of hearing from me....lol