I need to find a good sub box for my 10 inch JL w6

call jl they will give you BEST box recommendation

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/stephen_fa62cb6d50fe05e8

Parallel , all positives together , all negatives together . With 4 ,4ohm voice coils in parallel you get around 1 ohm .

There are 2 options to solve this problem.

1. You can glue the tear. In all honesty, Elmers glue works rather well. Unfortunately, car stereo subs have an extreme workload, and it will not hold up very well. This is a better fix for speakers with less excursion.

2. Refoam kits are available online. eBay is littered with them, both for new & old w6 models. Also, www.reconingspeakers.com has some available.

I can assume that phantom 1500 is a 1500 watt amp? but still the amp will have more than enough power to push a w6, w7,and even in pairs. Single w6 can handle 600 watts rms, thus you will need to turn the gain all the way down so that the speaker won't over powered and that can lead to breaking the sub.

these subs are rated at 400 watts rms ... hope this helps

Hello brianmitchel,

From what I am able to determine, the Orion HCCA250 is a bridgeable 2-channel amp that is stable to 1ohm when bridged and outputs 800 watts RMS into that load.

The JL W6's in both 10" and 12" versions are dual voice coil with 4ohm coils so they can be wired to present either an 8ohm load (series) or a 2ohm load (parallel). They can handle 600 watts RMS.

With this combination, the best configuration would be to wire the sub voice coils in parallel for a 2ohm load and then parallel both subs to the amp bridged terminals for a final impedance of 1ohm. The subs will each be getting 400 watts.

In any event, I would not recommend running subs in series. There is some evidence for distortion being caused by something termed "back EMF".

Hope this helps.

If you're willing to do the repair yourself, there is an Internet site - Simply Speakers -that sells repair kits for speakers ,including speaker surrounds.

I did two 10" drivers and it worked 100%. ..

The w1 is just the model number of the subwoofer like w1 is the entry level sub w3 is the intermediate sub the w6 is their competition level and the w7 is the holy mother of god sub for extremist. Over the years they have used different models for instance in the early 2000s----they used W0 and W2 and W6 with the W6 being their old top model- looks like nowadays they are going with W1V2,W3V2,W6V2 and the almighty W7-hope that answers your questions -if you are looking for the speakers specifications just go to jl audio.com and look into the discontinued models and it will break it down for you

Call Jeff at California Sound in Wichita, KS 316-686-2254. He is a JL expert!

bridge the amp and wire the JLs in parallel..then put some earplugs on ..lol