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Kenmore HE4 85088400-wiring problem

I just removed the lint screen to clean it and I unplugged the wires. I did not pay attention to the wiring-two wires. I don't know which wire goes where?

Posted by methomas88 on

  • 2 more comments 
  • methomas88 Sep 01, 2007

    Can someone help me out, I mistakenly said I had the problem solved. I never got an answer. I was trying to reply to someone who asked for more info about the wires. Here is the part # for the grill that has the wire connectors 8299979 There are 2 wires that attach to this part (grill) 1-yellow and red ant the other black. I paid for premium assistance. Thanks

  • methomas88 Sep 01, 2007

    It is unlabeled.

  • methomas88 Sep 01, 2007

    I checked my manual but it doesn't have info on this. They look the same.

  • methomas88 Sep 01, 2007

    The wiring is near the door. I took off the lint guard (grill)-the wires comes out from the dryer and the terminals are located on the grill. I don't even know what the wires are for.



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Can you describe the individual wires, while I try to find a manual with this information?

Posted on Sep 01, 2007

  • 3 more comments 
  • Anonymous Sep 01, 2007

    I'm still here - I'll find the answer for you.

    Black should be the ground. Are the connectors labelled with a + and -?

    If so, Black goes to the -, red/yellow goes to the +.

    I'll look for a wiring diagram in case they're unlabelled.

  • Anonymous Sep 01, 2007

    Okay, I'm having a hard time finding the diagram. It should be in your user's manual, if you still have it. I checked on Kenmore's website, but while they have a link for it, the link doesn't work.

    I'll keep looking.

  • Anonymous Sep 01, 2007

    Do the two terminals look different in any way?

  • Anonymous Sep 01, 2007

    Are we talking about the wires that come from the wall to the back of the unit, or some internal wires?

    Though in either case, if one is ground (which is what the black wire indicates) and one is power, hooking then up backwards won't break anything. I mean, either the dryer won't work until you wire them the right way, or possibly the motor will run backwards. However, it won't cause any damage.

    I've been unable to find a diagram of any kind. Sorta surprising, for so well known of a brand, but I think that's because Kenmore supplies them on their page, so there's no need for anyone else to have them for download. But, since Kenmore's links aren't working...

    I know this doesn't sound very scientific, but I suggest you take a guess, then test the dryver. Worst case scenario, you have to swap them when it doesn't work.

  • Anonymous Sep 01, 2007

    Oh, those. Those are just to polarize the lint screen so it attracts lint.

    It doesn't matter which is on which side.



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If you wish to clean the interior cabinet of the dryer follow these steps:

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2. Open the dryer door and remove the lint screen. IMPORTANT: You must remove the lint screen first in order to remove the blower fan housing.

3. Remove the lower toe panel directly below the dryer door by removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. NOTE: For better access, you can prop the front feet of the dryer up (a 2x4 works well).

4. Loosen the screws on the blower fan housing directly below the drum and remove. There's usually a small clip holding the cover in at the bottom that you may need to pull out to release. NOTE: You may also have to disconnect the auto dry sensor plug (yellow wires with white plug - use a small screwdriver to release the locking tabs) and/or ground wire to accommodate removal of the cover.

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NOTE: After cleaning, you may experience a slight burning odor. This is normal as lint gets stirred up in the cleaning process and can settle on the heating components. The odor should dissipate after a short period of use.

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Put the back panel back, and hope you havent done permanent damage
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the front does
the back panel serves solely as a mounting point for important fixtures
there is no reset button
there are thermal fuses, if the thermal fuse, mounted on the exhaust duct or fan housing has failed, it must be replaced, but they are not expensive
look like this de074eb.jpgbcb6b5f.jpg to access the dryer mechanism

unplug dryer
remove lint filter
remove 2 screws under lint filter
with putty knife or other blunt blade, depress spring catches at front corners of top cover
raise front cover
remove 1 screw each side of front panel 1/3 from top
remove door switch wires
remove front panel set aside
test all thermostats heater and thermal fuse with ohmmeter, remove 1 wire test for conduct replace wire, no conduct replace
the local parts store will have the part, labelled whirlpool, ~$14 for thermal fuse, ~$40 if heater

examine rear panel reinstall any thing that is dismounted
while the dryer is open
Clean the lint out of fan, fan housing, ducts
airflow blockage is the 99% cause of thermal fuse blowing, some lint always gets past the lint screen

Kenmore dryer (electric )

Almost always a thermal fuse.

If your lint screen is in the door, follow these directions:
Disconnect the power. Remove the lint screen. Slide a putty knife in between the toe panel and the bottom of the door three inches from either side. this will release the clips at the top. Tilt the toe panel out at the top and lift it off the clips on the bottom.
Remove the two 1/4 in screws at the top of the metal triangular box around the lint screen. There may be one more ***** near the bottom right of the box holding a gold bracket in place. Remove that ***** or lift the box off the black metal clip at the bottom.
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If your lint screen is in the top of the machine, follow these directions:
Disconnect power. Remove the lint screen. Remove the two Phillips screws under the lint screen handle.
Pull the dryer away from the wall about 2 feet or more. Disconnect the vent pipe from the bottom of the dryer. Remove the nine 1/4 in screws holding the back panel on, along with the small metal cover. Lift and remove the back panel.
You can now reach the thermal fuse. It's the white plastic part with two wires, close to the blower wheel. If you have an ohm meter, you can test it now. Or remove it (one 1/4 in *****) and take it to the parts store for testing.
While you're back there, be sure to clean out the long metal box that the lint screen goes into (four more 1/4 inch screws.)


For an electric dryer, there are just a few electrical components to test. You will need an "ohm-meter". First one to check would be the thermal fuse, mounted either on the blower wheel housing (for bottom lint screen) or on the rear bulkhead (top lint screen dryers).
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